How to remove a stripped bolt?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chems

Established Member
Joined
23 Apr 2008
Messages
4,065
Reaction score
0
Location
A Wood Haven
Due to SIP Chinese parts the wrong sized spanner they supplied to change the blades on my planer rounded the head on the bolt. I've undone all the others with the correct spanner but now can't get the trial one I tried the spanner on undone.

Any super ideas UKW?
 
Hi,

Is it the ones that clamp the blades in, if so can you cut the head off? remove the wedge amd unscrew it.


Pete
 
Cutting the head off is looking like the top runner at the moment, I tried the filing the edges, still slipped off with a smaller spanner.
 
Don't know if you have enough access, but a socket or ring spanner will give much more purchase than an open ended.

Could you try to tap a slightly undersize socket onto the head?

Apologies if you've already tried these things!!

Good luck,
 
I got it off, kept going with the filing an smaller spanner.

Thanks for all the help.

On the downside, the P/T is knackered, the chain arrangement has all come apart and bearings have broken. Its a classic case of don't buy cheap you'll end up buying twice. I will try and put in a warranty claim for it as it is new but we'll see. But end of the day this should happen to a thicknesser if it hits a knot!
 
Which make & model Chems?

Worth naming and shaming at least for the benefit of members future purchasing.

Bob

EDIT: I guess it is a SIP from your earlier post
 
Yes its the SIP 6x4 bench top model.

Its such a shame cause I was so impressed with it up to this point, its the quickest change over I've seen, just put the dust hood underneath. It was noisy as ****. I'll be interested to see what the warranty picks up.

Worst case scenario I am going to just use it as a planer and get a separate thicknesser.
 
There are few cheaper power tools that survive the punishment the job they are intended to do throws at them.

I have picked up a number of sliding chop saws at bootfairs for next to nothing and nearly all have knackered worm drives which are made out of rubbish cast "steel". You can't make worm drives out of that stuff...eventually it shatters.

I think the price these retail at looks great until you use them out of the ordinary...and bang...dead.

I try to use cheap power tools for light work...then they are relatively ok

Cheers

Jim
 
I had the same problem with my new robland 20 x 10 thicknesser.
tried everything.in the end a centre punch did it for me.
 
Having suffered over the years I tend to replace all screws and bolts, if possible, with Allen screws. Just about the worst that can happen then is the key strips, and a bench grinder will sort that!

Roy.
 
Interesting suggestion, Roy. Is the advantage that Allen head bolts usually have hardened heads? Otherwise, I'd have thought the chance of stripping the head was greater than with a normal head, as by definition the across-flats size is smaller for a socket than for a "normal" head?
 
They are 'tough' Dick, for example, if the head ever gives out the centre of the head will centre a drill for drilling the head off, which is much simpler than trying to drill the head off of a hex head bolt. But you need a slow drill speed.
I have only ever had countersunk Allen heads fail, these having a much smaller hex of course.
In other words Dick, failure is less like and removal by drilling much simple IME.

Roy.
 
A lot of cheap stuff is put together with very substandard bolts, barely reaching grade 4.6

Most cap head screws/bolts are 10.9, some top quality ones like unbrako are 12.9.

Your average everyday bolt grade is 8.8.

The 12.9 grade ones are made from tempered alloy steel, the 4.6 grade one from Dairylea :lol:
 
Well its getting picked up tomorrow, hard work finding a box big enough for it to go in. Fair play to SIP they were good about the invoice and bits as I'd bought it off of ebay new and thought that it might be a problem. Got a few jobs on so need it back ASAP!
 
i do a lot with hot compression tooling and the moulds are full of unbrako capheads (allen socket head screws) The best way of removing caphead with a stripped head that i know off is using an SDS drill in reverse with an TCT drill bit of the socket size .YOU MUST WEAR SAFETY GLASSES .It generally spins the offending bolt out after a very short time . If this fails i usually drill with a HsCo drill bit and re tap .Its a trick i was taught by a mate of mine and it has rarely failed . Its heavy on t drill bits but usually well worth it.this works on normal hex head bolts as well . Also drilling a tiny pilot hole straight through the offending bolt sometimes relieves the tension on the bolt and releases stubborn threads
Hope this helps someone next time
 
The saga continues!

It returned today, all the problems repair. Only to find that someone has lifted it up by the tables and its cracked the casting on the outfeed. So back in the box and been picked up again tomorrow.

The lesson in not buying cheap continues!
 
Back
Top