How to paint an old set of drawers

[The Bear]

I originally posted this on another forum but in hindsight I think with the bigger membership here they may be more people who are knowledgable in this

I have my eye on a chest of drawers on ebay, just the right size for where it needs to go. It is an oak veneered carcass and solid drawers/plinth. Some of the veneer has lifted and broken off so its far from perfect looking but thats OK as Mrs Bear wants them painted so I can use filler etc and patch a few other bits of damage. I'll also nned to make a new top. The seller has added a coat of wax to make them look better for sale. My question is what would be the best way of getting this off so I can paint them. Any suggestion of what primer to use. I don't know what finish was on them originally so is there a good way to deal with that? I know many folks here would make a set of drawers from scratch but thats not going to happen for a variety of reasons and this seem a good way to get what we want if I know how to deal with the old finishes.
Many thanks
Mark

 

[Spectric]

First thing to read is

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/how-to-remove-furniture-paste-wax-before-painting.123266/

You need to remove the wax with solvent or a more specialised product like

https://restorate.co.uk/products/liberon-wax-and-polish-remover

A good coat of primer and maybe more filling as it will show up the dings and imperfections.

As to paint I use Johnstones matt as they can match any color you fancy and it is good paint,

https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/acrylic-durable-matt

also treat yourself to a good brush, it makes all the difference and look at Picasso

https://www.mypaintbrush.co.uk/angled-cut-brushes

When it comes to painting, best place for info on this is

https://traditionalpainter.com/#/

I found the best way is to just get the paint on fast, not to much so it runs and then lay it off with long strokes from end to end without lifting the brush, most important is to then walk away and don't play or dabble with it which is where I used to go wrong.

 

[Jameshow]

First thing to read is

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/how-to-remove-furniture-paste-wax-before-painting.123266/

You need to remove the wax with solvent or a more specialised product like

https://restorate.co.uk/products/liberon-wax-and-polish-remover

A good coat of primer and maybe more filling as it will show up the dings and imperfections.

As to paint I use Johnstones matt as they can match any color you fancy and it is good paint,

https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/acrylic-durable-matt

also treat yourself to a good brush, it makes all the difference and look at Picasso

https://www.mypaintbrush.co.uk/angled-cut-brushes

When it comes to painting, best place for info on this is

https://traditionalpainter.com/#/

I found the best way is to just get the paint on fast, not to much so it runs and then lay it off with long strokes from end to end without lifting the brush, most important is to then walk away and don't play or dabble with it which is where I used to go wrong.

My 50yrs in trade freind recommends Hamilton brushes.

 

[Spectric]

My 50yrs in trade freind recommends Hamilton brushes

That is what I used like many others but along came water based paints and they are a different kettle of fish and paintbrushs have moved on.

Reading

https://traditionalpainter.com/battle-for-the-best-paint-brush

they said

and this is when I tried other brushes and could not believe the difference, I ditched both Hamilton and purdy.

 

[2sheds]

I did a furniture upcycling course a year or so ago. We used these rollers
https://twofussyblokes.com/mini-roller-sleeves/
Brilliant. Can't remember what the nap was but the finish was brilliant. Also used a good furniture paint (not chalk), very pleased with the results.

 

[Jacob]

Good wash/brush/rub down with sugar soap and thorough rinse.
When bone dry; fill holes with putty, then linseed oil paint. It sticks like s*** to a blanket on most surfaces and in spite of cost per tin is worth it as it goes a very long way and easy to apply - has to be thin and brushed out but the colours seem to be dense with good coverage.

 

[trvlr]

I sem to recall a programme in which Jay Blades or someone used a sponge brush to apply the various coats of paint. It was wedge shaped (a tapered design similar in way to a well broken in pro brush) and gave excellent finish.

I’ve found it useful (wise even…?) to sand between coats and wipe clean after dry brushing and or vacuuming away any residual dust; followed by a good wipe over with a sticky rag. Even on occasion rinsing with clean water water, then wiping dry before blow drying with a hair dryer. Made a set of pine book shelves that way; and coated them in clear urethane varnish and after three coats they shone like mirrors.

Came across this (a USA appraisal/comparison of the two methods - bristle v foam).

https://abutterflyhouse.com/foam-brush-vs-paint-brush/

And assorted reviews on the big river websites makes interesting reading. Be it for el cheepi or more expansive foams. Certainlt more one rubs down etc between coats of whatever, the better the finish

 

[Agent_zed]

I've started trying to use more environmentally friendly paints in particular 'earthborn'. they do a furniture paint https://earthbornpaints.co.uk/paint/furniture-paint/

recently used it for some picture frames and it goes on nicely.

Bit more expensive than some others but when it finally ends in landfill or wherever, it will hopefully be less damaging than other paint.

 

[The Bear]

Thanks for the replies. The seller is now not selling them unfortunately, but its all still useful for when I find and buy the right set.

Mark

 

[Etaf]

my wife uses chalk paint and used on a lot of furniture with a high chest of drawers and various items around the house painted with chalk paint. Limited colours