How to make this cut

[MitreKnown]

In that case just use them as they are and add stops for the doors. Why go to all that trouble?

I have three sets of double doors and they could all be the same and each door exactly 1220mm which is my stock size if I could tweak the frames to accommodate. It also provides a solid stop note. I know I could probably more easily cut the doors to size, but it's a shame to be just off. I guess it comes down to what's the least difficult

 

[deema]

The way to do it easily is either with a spindle moulder or a tenoner. Of the two, a tenoner is the purpose built tool for the job. Consider buying a Multico tenoner and when done selling it again

 

[rogxwhit]

Tree, wrong, and barking .... ;-)

 

[deema]

@rogxwhit go on, help me work out how I’m being a numpty on this occasion.

 

[rogxwhit]

As per his 1st post, he's trying to produce a long-grain rebate ...

 

[Jacob]

I have three sets of double doors and they could all be the same and each door exactly 1220mm which is my stock size if I could tweak the frames to accommodate. It also provides a solid stop note. I know I could probably more easily cut the doors to size, but it's a shame to be just off. I guess it comes down to what's the least difficult

Fitting doors to frames much easier. Unlikely that you could fit the frames so precisely that you wouldn't have to tweak the doors.
What is the 8mm rebate for exactly?

 

[MitreKnown]

Fitting doors to frames much easier. Unlikely that you could fit the frames so precisely that you wouldn't have to tweak the doors.
What is the 8mm rebate for exactly?

You're probably right as it would be painful to go through the whole rebating process to find I have to cut the doors down anyway

The reveal in the wall is 2528mm and I planned to have the following:

39(frame) + 3(gap)+ 1220(door) + 4(gap) + 1220(door) + 3(gap) + 39(frame) = 2528mm​

That would be with 7mm rebates, but my reveals vary slightly and up to needing an 8mm rebate.

I guess I should quit stalling and go with:

45(frame) + 3(gap)+ 1214(door) + 4(gap) + 1214(door) + 3(gap) + 45(frame) = 2528mm​

and rip 6mm off by 1220mm stock using a track saw (which I do have)

 

[rogxwhit]

So what's the weatherproofing detail around door edges & where they meet?

I'm also curious about cavity closure and dpc ...

 

[rogxwhit]

and rip 6mm off

6mm off the meeting stiles, or 3mm off all the stiles? Nominally, of course. The final fitting is the master.

 

[rogxwhit]

As an aside, referring to the original query - many planers had a rebating function, often allied with a Shaw (pressure) guard mounted on the fence, with the rebate width determined by the fence setting up to the full width of the planer ...

 

[Spectric]

Each board is 2.4 metres long, how depends on how good a finish you want and whether you are in a hurry. If you want a good finish then a rebate cutter in a router table and take several cuts to get the depth and three fence settings for each run using a 50mm diameter cutter. Sounds harder than it is but for each setup you run all the boards but you will want support on the outfeed, just fix a bit of wood using double sided tape.

 

[thetyreman]

alternatively get a new table saw

 

[rogxwhit]

you will want support on the outfeed

That's just the fence. You'd also need infeed and outfeed off-table support - I don't suppose any pressure guards on a router table are up to much for that section timber.

 

[TomGW]

In that case just use them as they are and add stops for the doors. Why go to all that trouble?

Seems like the obvious and most straightforward approach. Otherwise it’s a job for a spindle moulder.

 

[TRITON]

Unlikely that you could fit the frames so precisely that you wouldn't have to tweak the doors.

We used to make the door and frame together with the door pre hinged on(im meaning the linings rather than the frame that supports the brickwork.
This way to transport the entire thing to site, and simply screw through the lining into the frame - viola door perfectly hung.

 

[HamsterJam]

I’d be tempted to take as much off as possible with the table saw, put an 8mm deep groove in up to the 120mm mark then plane the rest away. Although to be honest, I’d probably cheat and create it by glueing two pieces together.

 

[MikeJhn]

(im meaning the linings rather than the frame that supports the brickwork.

What?

 

[Spectric]

That's just the fence. You'd also need infeed and outfeed off-table support

The outfeed support I am talking about is to provide support where you have rebated the timber to prevent it tipping or tilting because once you remove the material it can no longer support the wood as it exits the cutter.

 

[johnnyb]

are these doors 120mm thick? seems a bit chunky monkey. your basically making a door frame with a 120mm rebate.

 

[rogxwhit]

The outfeed support I am talking about is to provide support where you have rebated the timber to prevent it tipping or tilting because once you remove the material it can no longer support the wood as it exits the cutter.

Yes I understood that, Roy, which I'd thought was implicit in my reply. I was adding a point to it that I felt you'd missed. ;-)