How to make a simple spinning wheel bobbin

[kcjamd]

Hi

I am new to turning so I have given myself a project. I want to make a spinning wheel bobbin based on the design of Ashford standard single drive bobbin, to fit an Ashford single drive spinning wheel.

I tried to post a picture but I was not allowed. If you google "standard Ashford bobbin unfinished image" you will see the picture from winghamwoolwork and you can zoom in on it to see it in more detail.

(The picture shows a black nylon bearing inserted into the bobbin at either end but I do not have those.)

The basic design is a drilled cylindrical shaft which is rebated at both ends. On to either end a circlular piece of 12mm ply is glued (the ply at one end has a diameter of about 75mm, the other end has a diameter of about 68mm). The edge of both pieces of ply has a groove to accept a narrow cord for tensioning.

I have experienced a number of issues:

I have a long 6mm drill bit to drill out the shaft but I am finding it difficult to keep it to the centre. Should I start with a larger diameter piece of wood, bore through and turn it down to a smaller size, thereby correcting any 'going off centre', or is there a more professional approach I should be using?

How do I hold the ply on the lathe so that I can turn it to the right diameter and put the grove into it? All Ashford bobbins have pin marks on one side of the ply ( you can just make the marks out in the picture provided. Have they used a special device to hold the ply on the lathe or have they got a block that they have lightly pinned the ply to? I cannot hold a single piece of ply between the headstock and tailstock so is there a simple trick I should use for this?

At what stage should I drill the hole in the ply that is going to fit onto the rebated shaft?

I want to do this as efficiently as possible as I fancy making quite a few bobbins for some friends. Also I need to keep the costs down so turning down from 1 single piece of wood is not an option.

Any advice will be greatfully accepted.

:?

Thanks in advance for your help

Mod Edit:-

 

[Sheptonphil]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The way I would approach it is to drill an oversize square blank held in a chuck on the late, or in a pillar drill, if you have one with sufficient travel. Pop it between centres and turn the centre around the hole, it then has to be central to the shaft.

Turn down a tennon either end of this spindle the same diameter as a Forstner or auger bit you have.

Cut an over size disc of ply after drilling centre hole with said Forstner. Place discs on spindle ends and glue up. Remount between centres to apply pressure till glue sets. Leave between centres, final turn the discs to size, adding the grooves. Finish sanding and apply wax or varnish. (You can make a very simple friction drive with pin to put on the headstock end to be used in conjunction with a standard drive centre so there are no marks on the disc surface)

Just the way I would approach, but I'm sure others will give other/better ways.

Phil

 

[kcjamd]

Thanks Phil - that sounds like a good plan.

The club I go to is now closed for the holidays so I am going to have to wait to get back on the lathe but I am really looking forward to trying out your method.

Thanks to mod for the attachment - I'll look into how to do this in future

KC

 

[graduate_owner]

I have tried making these and my first mistake was to drill the centre hole to fit the spinning wheel spindle. Wrong - too much frictional drag. the hole needs to be bigger, which of course makes the bobbin wobble on the spindle. The solution is to make the hole bigger but prevent wobble by having two inserts, one at each end of the bobbin, which are drilled the correct size for the spindle.

I am about to try this method:-

Use 20mm nylon rod for inserts, drilled to suit the spindle before fitting them on the bobbin axle. You need to get these nylon inserts concentric with the drilled hole, and so there needs to be a 20mm (in my case) hole drilled to a depth to take the insert (about 15mm).

To achieve concentricity make the bobbin axle about 25mm too long, and cut one of the nylon inserts too long, again about 25mm. The procedure now becomes:-

1. drill the oversize hole in the (over long) blank and use this hole to centre the blank on the lathe to produce the axle (turning between centres).
2. Turn to final diameter and sand, (but make sure the ends are of suitable diameter for the forstner bit you intend to use for the discs, and the diameter also needs to be greater than that of the nylon inserts. If you need a smaller diameter axle then get smaller diameter nylon rod.
3. glue on the plywood (or whatever) discs to the axle, and when the glue is dry, make the grooves, and sand.

Now to fit the inserts.
4. use the wooden spigot (i.e. the over long piece of the axle) to hold the work and drill out a hole about 15mm deep, diameter to suit the nylon rod. You must be careful to maintain concentricity here - use the tailstock to support the work while lining up and gripping the spigot.
5. fit the over long nylon insert. This needs to be a very firm fit as I don't think glue will adhere to nylon. The work can now be reversed in the chuck, gripping the nylon as a spigot using the existing centre hole to help with alignment. You may want to remove the wooden spigot by sawing off first.
6. If you don't saw off the wooden spigot it can be parted off instead. Drill the hole for the second nylon insert, and fit the insert.

Finally, cut off the nylon spigot, and voila!!
I don't think I have left anything out. The only issue is making sure the chuck holds the work accurately, because if it does not grip the spigots concentric to the inner hole then you will get annoying wobble (annoying for the spinner, that is). My first attempt was made on a mandrel which took a while to make up, but the end result was just about useless for exactly that reason. My plan is to keep the chuck in place for all operations. I will fit a centre in the jaws of the chuck so hopefully everything should be in line. I'm saying hopefully because self centreing chucks do not always stay centred when opened and closed. If this doesn't work then I shall use a 4 jaw independent chuck and DTI instead. Here's hoping. Anyhow I hope this may be of some use - it's just my take on the problem and there may well be other, more elegant solutions.

K

 

[Spindle]

Hi

My method to turn bobbins is as follows:

Turn the spindle from square between centres - turn slightly oversize, ( a mm or so will do) in diameter - length should allow enough penetration into the flanges for secure bonding.

Cut the flanges on the band saw to approximate diameter - squares or octagonal depending on mood.

Drill through the flange centres with a 1mm drill then bore to suit the spindle with a forstner bit. The assembled flanges on the spindle should allow for waste on both sides of the flanges. Drilling through with the 1mm drill facillitates accurate centre location.

Glue the flanges to the spindle.

Rough turn the bobbin between centres.

Bore the bobbin with a long hole borer to 8mm

Fit bushes to each end of the bobbin - I make mine from 8mm OD 6mm ID aluminium tube and glue them in with epoxy.

Mandrel mount, (can be as simple as a threaded rod in a Jacobs chuck and centre drilled to take the tail centre).

Tidy up to final dimensions and to remove the evidence of the drive centre.

Regards Mick

 

[kcjamd]

Thank you all for your very thorough and interesting instructions. I have the bits ready and will be having a go next week

KC