Rorton
Established Member
Thanks, I did look at that one and wonder. What sort of handle do you use, I seen some that are like a cylinder and you can screw the end to put the blade in, or the more normal flat handles
How to Line Boxes & Drawers
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Blackswanwood
Still Learning
The basic one - I think it’s the number 3. It also makes a good marking knife for dovetails.
Rorton
Established Member
If anyone is looking for online suppliers of Pig Skin, I've just purchased a full skin from GH Leathers - £25 plus £9.95 del
Worked out a bit cheaper than Identity leathers - they want £45 for the full skin and then £6 for delivery.
The hide from GH is approx 14sq ft (same as Identity) Identity do sell a half skin for £24.50, plus £6 delivery, so that's £30.50 - for the extra £4.50 from GH your getting twice the amount.
I ordered last night (Monday) and its shipped, to be delivered tomorrow (Wednesday)
I went with No10a blades and a No3 handle for the blades,
Blades I got for £11.50 from eBay for Swann Moreton - each individually wrapped (there is a cheaper option of them in a box, but didn't know how that worked, im sure they couldn't just be loose in a box!) but for £1.50 extra I had the individual wrapped ones - seemed safer,
Also found a scalpel blade remover, with built in storage box for £2.95 from amazon which looks good, and you can pull off your dull blade, and it goes straight in the box, no hands to get cut!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0082CW90M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked out a bit cheaper than Identity leathers - they want £45 for the full skin and then £6 for delivery.
The hide from GH is approx 14sq ft (same as Identity) Identity do sell a half skin for £24.50, plus £6 delivery, so that's £30.50 - for the extra £4.50 from GH your getting twice the amount.
I ordered last night (Monday) and its shipped, to be delivered tomorrow (Wednesday)
I went with No10a blades and a No3 handle for the blades,
Blades I got for £11.50 from eBay for Swann Moreton - each individually wrapped (there is a cheaper option of them in a box, but didn't know how that worked, im sure they couldn't just be loose in a box!) but for £1.50 extra I had the individual wrapped ones - seemed safer,
Also found a scalpel blade remover, with built in storage box for £2.95 from amazon which looks good, and you can pull off your dull blade, and it goes straight in the box, no hands to get cut!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0082CW90M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rorton
Established Member
Any one have any tips on how to do a roll to store rings.
I tried with a piece of packing foam rolled up, stuck a few of them down, and then draped over the suede and pushed it into the gaps with a credit card - its a poor attempt, and while im pleased with how ive managed to do the lining, this is letting it down.
bit like this...
My poor attempt...
I tried with a piece of packing foam rolled up, stuck a few of them down, and then draped over the suede and pushed it into the gaps with a credit card - its a poor attempt, and while im pleased with how ive managed to do the lining, this is letting it down.
bit like this...
My poor attempt...
the way I do it is as follows. sorry no pics but if it isnt clear I will make one and photograph it.
start with a piece of thin board a little bigger than the area that you want to fill. this would be the size of 3 rolls in your pic above, and I have typically used something like very thin ply or hardboard. think it was probably 1/8", it was packaging when I bought a framed picture. stick to this a layer of suitable foam. you will need to experiment here. it is a little while since I last did one but I think that bath sponge was a bit firm, and I think that I used washing up sponge with the scotchbrite part cut off. I use copydex because that is what I use for the lining. Note that when you experiment, you need to factor in the material that you use because it makes it a bit firmer. the foams that I borrowed from packaging because they looked ideal were too firm.
with the sponge stuck to the backing, cut to size allowing enough for material front and back but accurately to full width. I use a bandsaw. cut the foam to height too to fill the height of your gap (allowing for material), or slightly less.
now stand the item on its long edge and cut the slots for the rings. you are cutting through the foam down to the wood. You can make it a straight cut or you can make the top part of the cut a v shape and give the rolls a contoured shape. again, experiment but use a layer of material on top when you try it out because it changes things a bit.
Now, to line it you need a long strip of material, the exact width of the insert and (I think) about twice as long cut longer rather than shorter. turn over the foam/wood combo and glue a sort end to the wood, so that about an inch is glued and the majority overhangs the end of the piece. turn it over and bring the strip up over the end, covering the top of the insert. Take a steel ruler and press the material with the edge into the first cut that you made in the foam. you will need to judge so that it doesn't distort the foam too much. when that one is correct, do the next ones, making sure that the additional material is used from the loose end. make sure they are even. finish at the far end, gluing it underneath. trim the excess.
I have tried neatly rolling the material and individually wrapping pieces of foam. this way has produced by far the best results for me.
start with a piece of thin board a little bigger than the area that you want to fill. this would be the size of 3 rolls in your pic above, and I have typically used something like very thin ply or hardboard. think it was probably 1/8", it was packaging when I bought a framed picture. stick to this a layer of suitable foam. you will need to experiment here. it is a little while since I last did one but I think that bath sponge was a bit firm, and I think that I used washing up sponge with the scotchbrite part cut off. I use copydex because that is what I use for the lining. Note that when you experiment, you need to factor in the material that you use because it makes it a bit firmer. the foams that I borrowed from packaging because they looked ideal were too firm.
with the sponge stuck to the backing, cut to size allowing enough for material front and back but accurately to full width. I use a bandsaw. cut the foam to height too to fill the height of your gap (allowing for material), or slightly less.
now stand the item on its long edge and cut the slots for the rings. you are cutting through the foam down to the wood. You can make it a straight cut or you can make the top part of the cut a v shape and give the rolls a contoured shape. again, experiment but use a layer of material on top when you try it out because it changes things a bit.
Now, to line it you need a long strip of material, the exact width of the insert and (I think) about twice as long cut longer rather than shorter. turn over the foam/wood combo and glue a sort end to the wood, so that about an inch is glued and the majority overhangs the end of the piece. turn it over and bring the strip up over the end, covering the top of the insert. Take a steel ruler and press the material with the edge into the first cut that you made in the foam. you will need to judge so that it doesn't distort the foam too much. when that one is correct, do the next ones, making sure that the additional material is used from the loose end. make sure they are even. finish at the far end, gluing it underneath. trim the excess.
I have tried neatly rolling the material and individually wrapping pieces of foam. this way has produced by far the best results for me.
I think that your attempt is ok actually. the obvious way of getting a round shape is to use round foam underneath but I think that a square shape with possibly just the corners knocked off works better and gives a tighter gap between the "rolls".
if you dont use glue you can reuse the material for testing purposes. An hour spent with a piece of board (or even cardboard) plus a £1 worth of different sponge materials and you will soon see what you like and what doesn't work as well.
Rorton
Established Member
thanks, I looked at a number of videos on YouTube, but most of them were 'craft' type where people were using fabric in recycled boxes, but the idea was the same, not sure if its more difficult as I have a smaller area. Some seemed to just roll up the fabric, but the suede is so thin it wouldn't have much of a sponging effect...
I used hot glue to secure it - couldn't see copydex doing it in such a small space, perhaps I just need a thin artist brush or something to apply it?
so with your method, your saying that I will in essence fill the whole of my gap with foam, and then cut out the foam to form the 'grooves' so im then left with what would look like 3 pieces of tall thin foam stuck to a board and them cover that with the suede? Then I should have a component that I can then drop into the 2 compartments in the tray?
We have some Ikea PAX wardrobes, and the jewellery inserts in there seem to use square foam - much to the wifes amusement ive removed her stuff and taken some pics. This seem to be a flat piece of foam, folded over/glued together to give the radius
I used hot glue to secure it - couldn't see copydex doing it in such a small space, perhaps I just need a thin artist brush or something to apply it?
so with your method, your saying that I will in essence fill the whole of my gap with foam, and then cut out the foam to form the 'grooves' so im then left with what would look like 3 pieces of tall thin foam stuck to a board and them cover that with the suede? Then I should have a component that I can then drop into the 2 compartments in the tray?
We have some Ikea PAX wardrobes, and the jewellery inserts in there seem to use square foam - much to the wifes amusement ive removed her stuff and taken some pics. This seem to be a flat piece of foam, folded over/glued together to give the radius
yes exactly. I cant see the scale of yours, but you will end up with 3 strips of foam say 1" x 1" x 3" glued to a backer board. This stops them separating when you try and put the material in between. I dont glue the material to the foam, only at the start and end point on the back of the board. I dont see why you cant but if the gap if the width of a bandsaw blade, I've never needed to. Then as you say, drop it in to the tray. if it is a perfect fit, I wouldn't glue it because the force of withdrawing a ring is negligible. if it is a fraction under sized or you are worried, a blob of hot glue will keep it in place.
there are probably numerous ways of doing it. I started similarly to you, and when I found the method I described I stuck with it. it wont be the only way.
pe2dave
Established Member
thetyreman
Established Member
thetyreman
Established Member
an original U47 from the 1950s, the long body version, it's not my microphone but made for a studio owner in the USA.
