Thanks Deema. I'll give that a try when it comes to putting the new ones on.My Bad
The easiest way with the simplest tools is just put the shaft in a vice with the bearing sitting in the checks and the shaft loose and just tap the shaft out. Warm the bearings to around 80C (in a cardboard box in the oven works well and keeps any oil off everything) and / or the shafts in the freezer over night and they should just slip on. Do not overheat the bearings, if you do you will need new ones.
How to get stubborn bearings off bandsaw guide posts?
- Thread starter CMax
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Whats the bearing number ?. As Hope tech(bike components) do drifts to fit theirs.
Earlier hubs use different bearings to today's hubs, and for example is a 6001 or from the pic it will have 2RS on it as well, so 6001 2RS this is on offer at 2.99
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/hope-beari...Vx-F3Ch0rqQFrEAQYAiABEgJpFvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds2RS means 2 rubber seals, the black bits that seal the bearing from ingress of dirt.
If you tell me the number on the bearing I'll see if theres a corresponding drift for it in Hope's tool kit.
I would recommend using a support bush. It's easy to get it wrong, or not fully seated so the bearing will be notchy or rough in use. Or alternatively you wont get it on the shaft when you go to fit in back in the machine.
They do drifts for 6001,6002,61802,61804,61902,61903,6803,6804,6903 and S17287
Earlier hubs use different bearings to today's hubs, and for example is a 6001 or from the pic it will have 2RS on it as well, so 6001 2RS this is on offer at 2.99
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/hope-beari...Vx-F3Ch0rqQFrEAQYAiABEgJpFvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds2RS means 2 rubber seals, the black bits that seal the bearing from ingress of dirt.
If you tell me the number on the bearing I'll see if theres a corresponding drift for it in Hope's tool kit.
I would recommend using a support bush. It's easy to get it wrong, or not fully seated so the bearing will be notchy or rough in use. Or alternatively you wont get it on the shaft when you go to fit in back in the machine.
They do drifts for 6001,6002,61802,61804,61902,61903,6803,6804,6903 and S17287
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Hi mate, they're 6201 RS bearings.
The interior diameter is 12mm -- I was thinking of just using a 13mm socket: the shaft they have to go on are also only 12mm deep. That said, you got me thinking and after a bit of searching, I found these: SKF - PSM 142030 A51 - Bushing - Straight Bushing
If I don't have much luck with the other methods, a brass bushing might be useful.
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Stevekane
Established Member
All the above but just be sure you haven't burred the top of the shaft over hitting it so far,,perhaps ease it back a bit and stone off the shaft edge,,,
And Plus Gas is much better than WD40.
Good luck,
Steve
And Plus Gas is much better than WD40.
Good luck,
Steve
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
If all else fails, then the work will have to be moved to the ground, (hard like concrete)
and a few choks of timber will have to raise the work.
I imagine things are bouncing off that work surface, leading to more unnecessary hammering, compared to only one or two solid dead blows.
A club hammer surely will be able to do this without taking much of a swing at all.
And as said above, a dip in something overnight would likely help matters a fair bit if it won't move, and less chance of damaging (mushrooming) the end of the shaft.
All the best
and a few choks of timber will have to raise the work.
I imagine things are bouncing off that work surface, leading to more unnecessary hammering, compared to only one or two solid dead blows.
A club hammer surely will be able to do this without taking much of a swing at all.
And as said above, a dip in something overnight would likely help matters a fair bit if it won't move, and less chance of damaging (mushrooming) the end of the shaft.
All the best
It's been soaking in WD40 all night and all of today so far. The vice turned up, so I'll give it a go when I can be bothered to enter the sauna (the garage). I'm not going to be damaging the shaft; I'm not going crazy with the hammer or anything, and the bearing puller is due to arrive later today, so if it doesn't come out with a few taps, I'll try the puller. Either way, you guys have been super helpful and given me plenty of methods to use. Much appreciated
Another tip is do it over a bench leg.
Yes, this is exactly what I'll be doing when I install the vice later. My garage floor is too soft for this (chipboard panels over foam insulation) and as I'm selling the house, I don't want to make a pig's ear of the driveway, so a bench leg will be my best bet.
Most hobby bandsaws use rubbing blocks and not bearings, its not as if they are under immense pressure in the job they do, to get them off the shaft just hit it with a bigger hammer on the inside race using a socket/box spanner as a drift over the open jaws of your vice, just make sure if using a socket the depth is not such that the square drive will impact the shaft, or in the other direction a 8mm socket will be deep enough to drift out the shaft.
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Edit: ignore this, I misread.
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Absolutely; that's been the general consensus and has thankfully worked well. I misread your first post as trying to hit the bearing rather than the shaft... anywhoo, it's all sorted nowIt would work if driving out the shaft with a 8mm socket over the open jaws of a vice with the shaft hanging down under the jaws, just use a bigger hammer.
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So...
Great success!
The shaft I soaked overnight was easy to do using my old method (hole in the worktop), but for the others, I used my new vice and some cheap parallel pins. They came off without too much bother.
As an experiment, I used the small bearing puller on one of them. It did work, but it felt sketchy. The tool itself skidded about the surface of the shaft (as mentioned, I could really have done with a dimple to keep it seated), but with some careful re-alignment and some muscle on the handle, it managed the job.
The shafts are now in the freezer awaiting delivery of the bearings, which will likely be tomorrow now. Then to see if I can get the new ones on without swearing. Plenty of sweating, though. It's over 33° in the garage today and will likely be hotter tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help, everyone. I'm a complete spud when it comes to mechanical things, often badgering things right up, so this was a rare success.
Great success!
The shaft I soaked overnight was easy to do using my old method (hole in the worktop), but for the others, I used my new vice and some cheap parallel pins. They came off without too much bother.
As an experiment, I used the small bearing puller on one of them. It did work, but it felt sketchy. The tool itself skidded about the surface of the shaft (as mentioned, I could really have done with a dimple to keep it seated), but with some careful re-alignment and some muscle on the handle, it managed the job.
The shafts are now in the freezer awaiting delivery of the bearings, which will likely be tomorrow now. Then to see if I can get the new ones on without swearing. Plenty of sweating, though. It's over 33° in the garage today and will likely be hotter tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help, everyone. I'm a complete spud when it comes to mechanical things, often badgering things right up, so this was a rare success.
I made a bearing/headset press using a length of threaded rod and then turned the correct size of bushing too match the bearing size on the lathe. Headset presses etc are usually expensive things in the bike world but the ability to make your own saves a pretty penny.
Threaded rod, some wide washers, a couple of sized nuts and the turned bushes. It puts them in nice and square.
If you've no lathe, you can use a socket. But it needs to contact the outside rim, or the bearing can collapse as it in pushed/pulled home.
Threaded rod, some wide washers, a couple of sized nuts and the turned bushes. It puts them in nice and square.
If you've no lathe, you can use a socket. But it needs to contact the outside rim, or the bearing can collapse as it in pushed/pulled home.
That sounds like a good idea. For both this job and maintaining my bikes. Since I’ve owned them, I’ve not used them enough to get them dirty, let alone require any replacements. But I need to shift some weight and get fit so after my move, getting back into cycling is a top priority.
Might be a stupid question, but how do you attach the bushing to the threaded rod, and have you made it such that different size bushings can be used?
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
If your vice doesn't open enough to fit the shaft, bearing and a socket use a good clamp like a K-body or a C clamp/G cramp that hasn't been over tightened until twisted.
Pete
Pete
The jaws certainly aren’t wide enough for the two lower (longer) shafts but should be okay for the shorter top shafts. I currently only have those awful aluminium bar clamps, but I’m not opposed to getting a decent clamp or two as they’ll obviously be used a great deal for woodworking projects.
That said, with Deema’s advice, I’m confident (perhaps wrongly) that I should be able to get the bearings on easier enough and tap into position with a socket. Time will tell
That doesnt matter .....Ooo shiny new thing
must have Currently I've used the fox 36 on my bike for nearly a year, so im needing to change it for a pike or lyrik ultimate.
Brake pads are the same age - Solution- buy new pads ? NOOO... buy new brakes
Hope V4 Hah!That doesnt matter .....Ooo shiny new thing
Currently I've used the fox 36 on my bike for nearly a year, so im needing to change it for a pike or lyrik ultimate.
Brake pads are the same age - Solution- buy new pads ? NOOO... buy new brakes
Saying that, I did recently replace both saddles on my MTB and gravel bike with SQLabs offerings and the pedals to DMRs, so I’m not totally against the shiny new thing syndrome
Nice saddles, i prefer the slimmer type myself.
