How to fit Hettich Concealed Hinges

[uziwood786]

Hey guys,

First time cabinet maker here so please be gentle..

I've brought some concealed Hettich soft close Sensys hinges and want to fit them on a full overlay door.

My wood is 19mm thick and 123mm tall, but i've got so many questions:

How do I know how far to drill the 35mm hole from the edge?
How do I measure a 3rd hinge since it's not from the edge?
Cup distance? How do I know how many mm that should be?

I've brought this template jig which i'm sure will make it easier, but I don't know how to calculate the above measurements in the first place to be able to use it

Hettich 9220193 MultiBlue Scribing Template for Pan Hinges with Diameter 26 and 35 mm Plastic Pack of 1, Blue : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

This is the technical information sheet I found from there website, i'm sure it makes a lot more sense to someone more experienced than me.

https://web2.hettich.com/hbh/addon/montage/Verarbeitungshinweise_Sensys_EN.pdf
I'd really appreciate some help, the cupboard is for my mum!

Usman.

 

[Doug71]

If you want full 19 mm overlay it looks like the hinge needs to be 7mm in from off the edge of the door (cup distance), therefore if they are 35mm hinges the centre of the cup (middle of drill hole) will be 24.5mm in from the edge of the door.

7mm (cup distance) + 17.5mm (half of hinge cup) = 24.5mm

I could be totally wrong though so have a trial run on an off cut first

 

[Graham Brazier]

Yep as Doug71 says (assuming you have bought the straight hinges ) to suit the full oveylay

not sure what you mean re a 3rd hinge though

it will be the same distance from the edge that the top and Btm hinge is ,

Is the size of the door you mentioned correct (123mm)

poss CM ? , you could put the 3rd hinge central to the length of door if it suits and nothing is in the way like a shelf etc looking at the spec sheet it’s a guide only you could put 4 hinges if you wanted

but deffo try it out on a scrap piece first they are handy to have for reference for other jobs

 

[uziwood786]

Thanks for your replies guys, okay so i'm saying 19mm overlay but I don't even know if that's right, i've stood the pieces up, this is basically what I want, and there's two doors.

In terms of the third hinge, i do want to add a 3rd hinge, but as you said there is a shelf in the way if I centre it, can I put it slightly above or below, does it matter or will it throw things off?

 

[Graham Brazier]

Thanks for your replies guys, okay so i'm saying 19mm overlay but I don't even know if that's right, i've stood the pieces up, this is basically what I want, and there's two doors.

In terms of the third hinge, i do want to add a 3rd hinge, but as you said there is a shelf in the way if I centre it, can I put it slightly above or below, does it matter or will it throw things off?

yes looks ok , but deffo cut a piece of scrap (door) drill ya hole and with the mounting plate on another piece of scrap (end) try it out

re the 3rd hinge you can put that where you want , depending on shelf , door slat position , will help with keeping the door straight and support the weight of the door as per manufacturers spec

 

[uziwood786]

If you want full 19 mm overlay it looks like the hinge needs to be 7mm in from off the edge of the door (cup distance), therefore if they are 35mm hinges the centre of the cup (middle of drill hole) will be 24.5mm in from the edge of the door.

7mm (cup distance) + 17.5mm (half of hinge cup) = 24.5mm

I could be totally wrong though so have a trial run on an off cut first

Hi Doug,

Thanks for that and i'm going to try that today, but before I do i'm a little confused as to why we are adding half the hinge cup to the cup distance (not questioning you, just trying to understand) and secondly the 7mm cup distance is for the inset doors, but mine are full overlay, i think? Does that still apply the same way?

 

[Ollie78]

The cups will be the same for overlay or insert. The difference is made by the arm being bent or offset.

Ollie

 

[uziwood786]

The cups will be the same for overlay or insert. The difference is made by the arm being bent or offset.

Ollie

Thanks Ollie, sorry when you say the arm being bent or offset, is that in regards to the type of hinge or something else?

 

[Ollie78]

Thanks Ollie, sorry when you say the arm being bent or offset, is that in regards to the type of hinge or something else?

Yes, the overlay generally have a straight arm, semi overlay will be a bit cranked or bent and inset more bent still you might even have an additional bracket/ spacer for face frames.
The cups are normally the same.

Ollie

 

[uziwood786]

Okay so I feel like i'm almost at the finish line, I decided to use this template which makes things really easy, but there is a problem, this is the instruction video from Hettich:

The drill bit needed to create the hole that can fit the template holes for the mounting plate is 4mm, but the screws provided are 2.5mm, so obviously the hole is way too big. I'm guessing a thicker screw won't fit through the mounting plate, but I really can't figure out what i'm missing?

 

[Graham Brazier]

Look at this video , the guy is using different size screws , poss a euro screw

 

[uziwood786]

Look at this video , the guy is using different size screws , poss a euro screw

Thanks this is a really helpful video, I looked at my mounting plate and it's threaded, which im guessing means theres no give to put in a bigger screw?

 

[Ollie78]

Euro screws are probably what they are expecting you to use. They are pretty fat with a flat end and course thread.
Or sometimes they come with a sort of built in rawlplug on a normal screw instead.

Ollie

 

[uziwood786]

Euro screws are probably what they are expecting you to use. They are pretty fat with a flat end and course thread.
Or sometimes they come with a sort of built in rawlplug on a normal screw instead.

Ollie

So i just brought M5 x 12mm screws as it is on this website for my mounting plate, and the screw doesn't fit, im even more confused now, what am I missing?

 

[Graham Brazier]

I would use the jig to locate the screw holes for the hinge plate and just mark and screw the plates on

then using a centre line from where the hinge plate is , mark the centre line for ya hinge hole in the door and drill it

Pencil , masking tape and an adj square / rule/tape measure is all ya need

 

[uziwood786]

Thanks Graham, I did exactly that and it works! But my overlay is half as you can see in the picture, I need it to be a full overlay, what can I do to fix that, is that adjustment or is that to do with where the cup was drilled?

 

[Graham Brazier]

Thanks Graham, I did exactly that and it works! But my overlay is half as you can see in the picture, I need it to be a full overlay, what can I do to fix that, is that adjustment or is that to do with where the cup was drilled?

Have you deffo got the straight hinge
The 0mm hinge plate

As there is semi and fully cranked and different thickness hinge plates

Just check the labels or your order

And is there 7mm of gap between the hinge hole and door edge ( see previous msg from Doug71)

There is adjustment in the hinges usually from the screw circled in the photo , by s teeing in or out will move the door away or towards the edge

I’ve not used this make of hinge but it looks similar to Blum hinges

 

[uziwood786]

Okay so my mounting plate says 'D1.5' However my in built cabinets have the same D1.5 mounting plates, but they are fitted with a full overlay.

Because I used that template there was no option to adjust the cup distance, i've brought the Kreg hinge jig too (a similar one) and even that only goes up to 6mm adjustment, so not sure how I would achieve 7mm?

 

[Ollie78]

That screw you have looks like a machine screw, I worry about it having enough grip in the wood.
The Euro screws I normally use have a very course thread designed for MDF and chipboard (I always use Blum but I assume they are all similar).
Like these ones https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/images/P/BLUM_661.1300.HG_Euro_Screws.jpg

It does look as though the set up you have is half overlay, assuming you have adjusted the screw Graham Brazier has circled all the way in. Though looking at it you might need a combination of the circled screw all the way in and the other one all the way out. I have never used these ones but there can be different ways to adjust them.

Ollie

 

[Doug71]

The blue template you have positions the centre of the cup 21.5mm from the edge of the door which will only give 4mm between the edge of the door and the hinge cup, according to the instructions you need that distance to be 7mm.

Putting the cup 7mm from the door edge (instead of the 4mm which you will have) will move the door 3mm closer to being in line with the edge of the cabinet.

You don't need a template, just put a mark on the test door 24.5mm in from the edge and centre your drill on it.