How to drill into a concrete lintel?

[Stan]

For years, whenever I have needed to put a wooden beam across the top of the inside of a window, I have been faced with drilling into a concrete lintel.

I have always used a hammer drill on a slow setting, with appropriate masonry bit, drilling in short bursts. After much foul language and some elbow grease, it does the job. BUT I am fed up with it. Also I'm getting weaker as I get older. Grandad used to say "no point getting older if you don't get craftier". So, anyone know a better, craftier way?

( And don't say "don't". If SWMBO wants a pelmet there , then a pelmet there shall be...).

 

[guineafowl21]

Get an SDS+ drill and (masonry) bits. Night and day to an ordinary hammer drill. Try not to hit the rebar.

 

[graham88]

Start with a smaller drill bit to make a pilot hole, 3mm should suffice. Should also reduce the chances of the bit wandering as you drill. Option 2 is construction adhesive, but then you're at the mercy of SWMBO not changing her mind elsewhere down the line.

 

[Etaf]

+1 for SDS drill , I wish i had purchased one YEARS ago , struggled with hammer drill for ages before in lintels , hanging curtain rails .........
I have also found the Bosch multi-purpose drills to be great for walls - not used a hammer setting since had those for all sorts of different walls

 

[Ollie78]

I have been using the Bosch multi material bits for this sort of thing. I find mostly you don`t even need hammer.
I hardly get the SDS out now unless its for really big things.

 

[niemeyjt]

Another vote for SDS here.

 

[Bingy man]

100% agree with sds start with a 6mm and increase to 7/8 as reqd . Rebar is just down to luck but a 6mm will often deflect off it .I have a friend of mine ghis exact advice as he assured me it was a concrete lintel. He phoned me over a hour later no further into his task saying he needed a bigger drill as it was impossible. I went round and took one look at the iron fillings on the drill bit and laughed my xxx off .

 

[Ozi]

This may be a silly suggestion, if so it won't be my first but depending on the weight to be attached have you tried "No more nails" or similar? As long as the plaster beneath is sound glue can be amazingly strong. The concrete slabs on the raised parts of the Coventry ring road are glued on..... I only know that because one fell off.

 

[duke]

The SDS drill is the way to go. I use it when pinning in footings into bedrock.

 

[Daniel2]

Perhaps, rather than referring to SDS driils, it would be more accurate to
refer to their correct name, rotary hammer drills. The term SDS only really
refers to the chuck, and it's particular method of holding the bit.. That said,
I'm not aware of a percussion drill that has an SDS chuck.
The hammer action on a RH drill is delivered differently to that of a
percussion drill (regular DIY type), and excels at drilling into harder materials.
The difference is night & day.

 

[mark w]

Another vote for SDS.

 

[Puggers]

Per @Ozi I've used CT1 when my SDS was with one of my kids on loan and my wife's friend visiting required the instantaneous fitting of an appropriate batten for attaching a large Roman blind.

I kept a straight face and my gob shut when said friend apparently didn't even notice the blind up......

 

[Essex Barn Workshop]

I've have this one:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h
for years having bought it for pretty much exactly the reason you now need one! It was just about the cheapest one on the market, and It has never let me down, even though I don't use it very often. When needed, it is invaluable.

 

[Bingy man]

Many years ago I worked in London, Surrey east and West Sussex-I came across a wall that that I couldn’t drill . I had an aeg battery drill and a 1400 watt core drill ( the hammer mode was percussion) only drilling a 6 mm hole but the drill bit would just get orange hot until the tip would just fall off . The cust 70 + came into the garage with a look of concern and said “ that wall is flint and not even hitlers bombs could destroy it . I’ve previously drilled high strength poured concrete with sds but often wonder if an sds drill would have done the job ..

 

[GuitardoctorW7]

Many years ago I worked in London, Surrey east and West Sussex-I came across a wall that that I couldn’t drill . I had an aeg battery drill and a 1400 watt core drill ( the hammer mode was percussion) only drilling a 6 mm hole but the drill bit would just get orange hot until the tip would just fall off . The cust 70 + came into the garage with a look of concern and said “ that wall is flint and not even hitlers bombs could destroy it . I’ve previously drilled high strength poured concrete with sds but often wonder if an sds drill would have done the job ..

If you come across a flint in old brickwork (and you will know when you have) putting a steel punch in the hole and giving a hefty whack (or two) to shatter it, usually works. Also with old walls I never start with the hammer on..... ask me how I know

 

[Henniep]

Perhaps, rather than referring to SDS driils, it would be more accurate to
refer to their correct name, rotary hammer drills. The term SDS only really
refers to the chuck, and it's particular method of holding the bit.. That said,
I'm not aware of a percussion drill that has an SDS chuck.
The hammer action on a RH drill is delivered differently to that of a
percussion drill (regular DIY type), and excels at drilling into harder materials.
The difference is night & day.

Agree wholeheartedly. There is a major difference between an ordinary drill with hammer action and a rotary hammer drill.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I've have this one:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h

Given that he says "Also I'm getting weaker as I get older" in his original post, do you think that mention of a 5.9kg drill is appropriate in the circumstances?

I would urge the OP not to consider anything approaching that size. For domestic use, the lightest model on the market will be more than adequate for his needs.

 

[accipiter]

SDS drill - wish I'd gone for one years ago instead of believing a 'hammer' drill would do the job. I've been in my home now since late 1986, a 1796 building of old stone walls 2ft thick. I've lost track of the number of holes drilled to put things up and hitting a stone behind the plaster/render only to graduate off at an angle.

Now, *at 73 - and getting weaker*, I've bought a Titan SDS from Screwfix (possibly the one linked to by @Essex Barn Workshop - if not then very similar). NO issues at all with the recent holes drilled to put up shelves.

OK... it's heavier than a hammer drill with masonry bit BUT I managed. The 'kit' weighs a fair bit but... it's all the bits (pune intended) you get in the carry case with the drill. May never use all but...

SDS

 

[JSW]

There's another way, that hasn't been mentioned yet.

30mm Aldi Forstner bit (or cheap disposable one)
35mm Holesaw
Guide for drilling plaster
Offcut of ply for plugging
6mm dowel (fits the holesaw drill bit size) to assist inserting ply plug
Construction adhesive to fix plywood plug
Filler to skim over for finish

Adapt this idea for larger size plugs

Edit. Only used this on p/board walls and dot-and-dab, would possibly work on plastered as long as there's enough depth before hitting brickwork.

 

[guineafowl21]

^ post reported for tool abuse