How to cut box slots for splines on a box without a table saw?

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I use this easy method with a 6 mm flat top saw blade

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@Cordy that looks like a great technique. I don't have a table saw but have a tracksaw and mitre saw.

@akirk That jig looks really simple to use, thanks.
 
Of course , it is the glue line that adds strength. You could just use a tenon saw and let in slips of veneer.
This works really well and I've used it on small boxes. I made a small thicknesser to work with a No4 plane. It adjusts to enable thin pieces to be safely and accurately planed to a precise thickness - quite handy if you have quite a few to make.

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I have tried a few ways. Router table and tablesaw using a jig that holds the box at 45*. Table saw being easiest but you are stuck with the kerf width. I guess you could make a fancier jig but I am lazy. So lately I have resorted to (the delicate may as well get a cup of tea now) a dado blade to get different widths.baritone uke 002.JPGdulcimer build 006.JPG
I guess with care they can be done by hand. I would likely need to invest in a very fine saw. Making the keys I would plane the wood strip down to just slightly oversize then rub them down on a sanding block to get final fit. In fact I sometimes have to do that anyway.
Regards
John
 
The only problem with cutting on a router table using a slotting tool and an arbor is that you are limited to the distance in from each end you can cut the spline slots
Its fine if you just want the splines at the top and bottom as per Peters photos but if you have a deeper box and you want them all the way down then I think its the tablesaw or a tracksaw and a jig to hold the track over the corner
Wider splines can be cut on the router table taking passes but I think 3mm is as thin as you can go and there is still a possibility of cutter breakage
 
The only problem with cutting on a router table using a slotting tool and an arbor is that you are limited to the distance in from each end you can cut the spline slots
Its fine if you just want the splines at the top and bottom as per Peters photos but if you have a deeper box and you want them all the way down then I think its the tablesaw or a tracksaw and a jig to hold the track over the corner
Wider splines can be cut on the router table taking passes but I think 3mm is as thin as you can go and there is still a possibility of cutter breakage
I got the long arbor from Wealden that has a total length of 107mm, i think that would give plenty of scope for positioning the splines. The set up worked really well.
 
@Peter Sefton Thanks for posting those photos Peter, really lovely box and i like the set-up you have for cutting the spline material.

I got the box finished, not in time for Christmas sadly but in time for New Year. It was a great project and packed in lots of skills and learning. Helped me get to grips with my new bandsaw too and convinced me that i definitely want a planer/thicknesser ;) as i started off with a twisted board and had to plane everything by hand. I didn't quite get the piston fit I wanted on the trays and i think that was due to cutting the mitres on a router sled that ending up shortening the pieces slightly. My daughter was so pleased with it and kept give me hugs all day so I'm very pleased with the project. Will probably post in the things you've built section but thought it would be nice to post some here for the people who helped me with this. Cheers all.

Am i right in thinking the sides are Sapele? just seemed much darker and more brown than what i've used before.

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