How much of an issue is rust?

[BearTricks]

I've had issues with a leaky shed the last few days. As a result some of my tools are rusted. I just found some that I had missed on my lathe.

As far as I can tell none if the moving parts are affected, just an exposed area around the lever that loosens the belt. I plan to clean it off a bit later.

I know rust can be removed but when does it start becoming a bigger issue? And how can I keep on top of it so that it doesn't start becoming a problem over winter. I know a clean, dry workshop is the first step but it's almost impossible to avoid bringing some of the elements in with you especially when you're working out of spaces that aren't purpose built, as a lot of us are.

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[AJB Temple]

For me, you will lose the battle with rust if you don't deal with it very early on. Once pitting sets in tools are ruined cosmetically and you have a job on your hands dealing with it. I posted this in another thread recently. This stuff is not cheap, but neither are tools or wasted time.

"For direct application to exposed tool surfaces, Boeshield T-9 provides rust and corrosion protection, along with waterproof lubrication. It dries to a smooth thin film that does not attract dust and it has a significant corrosion inhibiting effect. Formulations were introduced in the aerospace industry Boing I think) and I used to get mine from a BAe jet engine engineer. It is now available retail though.

Rutland are doing 2 for 1 at £25, which is jolly expensive, but I have seen it on-line recently at about £7. Their web site lists UK suppliers.

It works well in my experience, although I do not have a dripping wet workshop."

Another strategy, used in conjunction with moisture displacing preservatives, is removal blankets (cheap and easily obtainable) draped over machine tools and cabinets. These thick grey blankets will add an insulating and absorbent layer. do not let them get wet: tumble dry them when necessary.

Add a dehumidifier to your workshop. This extracts a surprising amount of atmospheric moisture. They are cheap and quite effective.

If you have a high ceiling, consider adding a suspended layer. I have this in my workshop, but I must admit my shop has insulated walls and floors and a tiled roof with a suspended ceiling. I go to great lengths to stop moisture wrecking my tools. This includes using wooden drawers for storage and silica packets where needed, as well as using waxed paper wrappings and books for tools that are rarely used.

 

[BearTricks]

I've started combing the house for silica.

I'll probably get the Boeshield and a dehumidifier too. Thanks for the advice. The workshop isn't dripping wet now, but I could still use all the help I can get.

What's a reasonable price for the 12oz bottle. I've found it at around 13 quid on average.

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[wallace]

I've used boeshield quite a bit over the last few years and to be honest I'm not hugely impressed by its rust inhibiting. If the item is bright and clean I've found renaissance wax to work really well. If the item is a bit rusty and you don't have the time to deal with then I use waxoyle quite liberally, it stops the rust in its tracks. I use it on machines that are outside covered with a tarp. I've just cleaned my machines in the workshop and gave them a good rub with wax and then covered with a sheet to see how they do over the winter.

 

[Bm101]

Bear. I use these in my van. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A ... _at_prodpg I'm up early (4am) and in the winter I dont need the agg. I use a windscreen protector and all sorts. Anything to stop me having to mess about with frozen glass. Ive used a few types over the years but theses are the best by a country mile. They wont remove the problem by any means and they are only meant to work in in the confines of an enclosed space like a van (or a tool chest). They do work though. Might be a small part to the solution. Need to dry them out once in a while in the microwave.
They won't solve the problem but they might help on the way. Silica base solution. Will only go so far to solving your issues mate.

 

[BearTricks]

Bear. I use these in my van. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A ... _at_prodpg I'm up early (4am) and in the winter I dont need the agg. I use a windscreen protector and all sorts. Anything to stop me having to mess about with frozen glass. Ive used a few types over the years but theses are the best by a country mile. They wont remove the problem by any means and they are only meant to work in in the confines of an enclosed space like a van (or a tool chest). They do work though. Might be a small part to the solution. Need to dry them out once in a while in the microwave.
They won't solve the problem but they might help on the way. Silica base solution. Will only go so far to solving your issues mate.

I'll grab some of those. I'm sure some people have vans that are bigger than my current workspace. If I set them on the lathe bed overnight I'm sure they'll do a half decent job.

Got some waxoyl from halfords and a couple of other things that may or may not help.

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[Spindle]

Hi

Assuming your problem stems from airborne moisture as opposed to water dripping onto the tools:

The best approach is to keep the temperature of the tool above that of the atmosphere.

Ways to do this:

Place smaller tools in a drawer or cupboard with a heater, (vivarium / home brew heating mat - low wattage incandescent light bulb).

Large tools, resistive heaters / incandescent light bulbs to warm exposed metal surfaces - covering with a cotton, (not polythene), sheet will also be beneficial.

Ensure you have good ventilation to your workshop

Regards Mick