How is this done?

[throbscottle]

I just turned a door round so the hinges are on the opposite side of the frame. I didn't rebate the hinges in the frame because the door's a bit narrow, but I did have to cut a rebate for the latch-plate.

So, in it's original position the latch-plate was a nice snug fit in it's rebate - I had to prise it out. My rebate. Huh, what a load of cr@p! It's level, and that's the best thing I can say for it, but there is nothing snug about the fit. Luckily most of the gap is at the bottom so not so noticeable.

So what's the correct method for fitting this kind of thing, so it fits properly?

 

[Stigmorgan]

Trace around it and when you cut it out leave the pencil line, it will either be a perfect fit or you'll need to remove a hair thickness at a time until it does fit.

 

[JSW]

I just turned a door round so the hinges are on the opposite side of the frame.

You can't reverse a door in it's frame and expect it to fit, doesn't work that way. You'll 99% of the time need to refit the door to the frame to some extent.

 

[Doug71]

Use a Stanley knife to trace around it then use the knife line to register the tip of your chisel for the final cut.

 

[whostolebenfrog]

I just turned a door round so the hinges are on the opposite side of the frame. I didn't rebate the hinges in the frame because the door's a bit narrow, but I did have to cut a rebate for the latch-plate.

Do you mean that you switched the hinges around to the other side but kept the rest of the door in the same position? So that it will open the other way?

I usually just mark it with a razor sharp pencil, then carefully use a chisel to cut around the edge. Then start removing material. I absolutely love cutting hinge rebates. I find it deeply relaxing.

Main trick really is keeping the door nice and steady whilst you work. I use a workmate bench on each end and clamp it in. It's not as much fun if you are trying to hold it up while working.

 

[Bingy man]

Pencil mark the Centre of the latch transfer to the face of the frame then continue it around the rebate . Measure and mark the centre of the rebate so you effectively have a cross line, centre the latch plate vertically and horizontal on to the cross lines and using a hinge drill drill through the top fixing hole , add screw then szme for bottom hole . Mark with Stanley blade , marking knife , pencil line around the face plate . Many ways to get it right. I prefer to use a marking knife.. this method works for me …

 

[johnnyb]

I use a sharp pencil as it's asking for a cut being " fiddly". I aim for perfection these days (being slow) so I like to use Paul seller's favourite a router plane! So quick to sink it perfect depth. And once set good for all day.

 

[throbscottle]

Hmm, I'll go with using a sharp knife in future then since I don't seem able to mark a pencil line that close (and my cheap chisels don't do too well across the grain either). Useful to know. Thanks for all the tips!

Thanks for the detailed description Bingy, but getting the position wasn't the problem, just the actual cutting.

Yes I took the door off and turned it round so the inside is on the outside. That way I didn't have to clean up and fill the holes from the handle and latch and twist lock, and then drill them on the other side. Needed instead to add and trim a bit at the bottom and trim a bit at the top (easy with the track saw), part fill the hinge rebates and extend them to the other side. Looks OK and missus is happy as the downstairs bog is no longer an obstacle course! Just need to fill the old hinge and latch plate rebates in the frame now.