How is a board tapered

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swp

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I was reading through this thread from the design forum (links to lots of beautiful furniture if you've not seen it) and came across Cimitree's z-tables.

http://cimitree.co.uk/z-tables.html

I am wondering how the maker might have gone about tapering the board so that both faces are perfectly flat but not parallel (I've added a cross section diagram as an attachment in case the link above breaks).

I can see that the edges could be cut on a table saw with the blade angled using the top surface as the reference but don't know what tool could be used to get the taper like that.

Any ideas?
 

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  • cross.png
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have a board of mdf that will run against ur table saw fence. put some blocking on it and hold downs that hold the leg at a slight angle to the fence. the mdf runs against the fence the leg gets cut at an angle giving u a taper not the best description sorry
regards rick
 
I think you'd need to make up a wedge (e.g. MDF board with a sequence of varying height cross pieces).

Fix your work piece on the wedge (would double sided tape be string enough?), and thickness plane the composite object.

Unless, of course, you've got a tablesaw or bandsaw monumental enough to handle the task as a tapered re-saw.

BugBear
 
this one looks very simple but obviously make it with a straight guide not a beveled done. Or just set the sled rails to the angle you want your taper.

router%20sled.jpg
 
the website says "shaped by hand", so perhaps it was as simple as a plane. I hadn't appreciated that it was tapered in 3 dimensions.
 
or (i cant think quite how it would be supported against the fence), but a bandsaw, tall fence and tilted table. Maybe tape the waste back on to the cut to do the 2nd side.

Edit, that wouldnt work, it tilts in the wrong plane.
 
I've done something similar using a thicknesser. Strong jig with end stops that runs on the thicknesser bed holding the work-piece at an angle. NO metal fixings in the jig just wood and glue. Fine cuts and some care is needed but it works well.
 

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