How hard is spraying??

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neilc

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I just completed the carcasses for the kitchen in the new house. I still have to do the face frames, doors etc.. though. Anyway I though I'd give the guy that sprayed a couple of bits for me before a ring tonight to line him up for a couple of weeks time. To my horror he said he doesn't do it anymore.
So I kinda wondered about doing it myself. Is this a runner having never sprayed before? What equipment would be good to get? Is there much to cleaning the equipment afterwards? Any other advice would also be great.
Neil.
 
Its very very very very hard to get it right . Just when you think you have it sussed it all goes wrong again .
 
neilc":6sv81zyg said:
What equipment would be good to get?
LPHV set-ups are better, especially if you don't have a spray booth with extraction and filtration - less overspray to clean-up.

neilc":6sv81zyg said:
Is there much to cleaning the equipment afterwards?
You often find that you'll spend as much time cleaning up the guns, etc afterwards as actually doing the spraying, sometimes more. That said spraying is often a lot quicker than any other method of finishing

Scrit
 
Neil
Oboyoboyoboy are you in for a treat.
:)

I've been making furniture since god was a boy and still I find finishing the hardest part to get right. My setup is very amateur, I'm not a pro with a big workshop and purpose-built spray booth. Yet even I think I've cracked it.

Pssst. I'll tell you what I know, which, I'll grant you, isn't much.

As Scrit says, HVLP is a good start for the keen hobbyist. I've had two, the first was adequate, my current one is excellent. Both are Apollo. I believe the Fuji is good too. Don't expect the same results from, for example, an entry-level Earlex. Not the same.

Use good materials. Terry's Chestnut Lacquer is expensive but good. You can get an excellent finish in 3 coats. I get my thinners elsewhere, much cheaper, but the lacquer and sanding sealer are worth the extra dosh, if you buy it in the 5l size. You don't need a cat and the build-up is excellent.

You need somewhere to spray. I spray outside, which means Winter is out, as you need above 12 deg C. And wind is your enemy. I have a makeshift Gazebo spray-booth. I got some flack for it when I wrote about it in GW, but I stand by it, it's not a pro booth but better than nothing, and in fact there is more vent in that than in some "proper" booths I've seen operating.

Spray a full wet coat and don't be impatient waiting for it to dry.

I've only really been spraying for 2 or three years, and I don't do it very often, but it's something you learn very quickly. The problem is that your first results are unlikely to be excellent, and the finish is, of course, what finishes off a lot of hard work.

It's not an easy step to take, but when you crack it, your work moves up a notch or two.

HTH Steve
 
so far have not used an hvlp, but air brush with a compressor, and or
spray as in car usage. certainly for painting big flat doors like kitchen ones, i would recommend spraying. you could start practising with a couple of aerosols, particularly the newer water based ones.

the biggest problems in fact are getting too close to the work, so the paint does not land and stay, it runs, and spraying too thick.

the old maxim little and often is the way to go. most paints/lacquers should be thinned by at least 50% to ensure a decent finish.

paul :wink:
 
Having bought and sold two spraying systems and a small booth I cannot advise you on how to do it, but, where I to try again four words would be stencilled on the booth.

Patience,Patience,Patience,Concentrate

Good luck
Dom
 
Anonymous":1wxjoktc said:
For cleaning just rinse everything in thinners - it takes a few minutes thats all despite what that other bloke said.
It all depends on how clean you want to keep your gear, Brad. At the end of a session a gun needs to be completely stripped, cleaned and lubricated if you want it to last and also ensure that you achieve consistent results. Not an onorous task, but a necessary one. And as you know cleanliness is next to godliness when spraying, just ask any professional sprayer!

Scrit
 
Neil
Some good advice there for you!
I bought a cheap HVLP kit from B+Q (about £50). I have done a review here..
The one thing with spraying that you should remember is this - you may not get a "perfect" finish straight from the gun. BUT, the spray lacquers are amazingly workable and can be easily and quickly buffed to a perfect, flawless shine.
There is a learning curve ( as with anything!) but once you get the basics you're off!
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
how much time and money have you got ?
Do you want to do all your pieces ?

Where does one start ?

ok type of finish

easy ones - pre cat -morrels.cheshunt.fiddes all sell a type of pre cat laq.

middle - french polish yes it can be sprayed but often ppl get orange peel
traditional turpentine/WS based paint

hard - 2 pot laquers clear and pigmented. high gloss acrylics.
mainly due to dirty equipment and a dusty spray zone

My favoured way - HVLP Apollo 700 system and recently just got this from HF USA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=93305
Still l got to build new w/s so am using an old shed with a hole
knocked out of a wall to install a large fan simerler to

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93532

Does it suck or what ! :) just need to make a heating system to
cope with losing all the warm air.Really a better way would be
to make an Air re-circulating duct pipe with filters for the
paint / dust particles.

But going back to your Q :) the main answer would be short term method - buy from a DIY shed and play.
Long term get a Fuji or Apollo and learn the hard way, no short cuts to finishing I am sorry to say :twisted:
 
Like Philly I bought the £50 B&Q HVLP kit (after reading his review). So far I have sprayed water-soluble paints, MDF primer, undercoat and topcoat. The results have been ok but there is quite a bit of technique to master. Getting the air/paint mix right, the consistency of the paint, the speed at which you move the gun and the distance from the workpiece. I've been working on MDF drawer fronts and frame & panel doors for my kitchen so I can afford to mess it up but paint runs can be sanded out and re-painted. I've been really impressed with how little mess the unit creates. I laid cheap plastic dust sheet over my workbench and up the wall at the back to protect the workshop and because I was spraying w/s paint I got away with just a regular dustmask and goggles, which I had anyway. I think the only way to learn is to have a go and practice on something that isn't too important but use the the same material your units are made from and the same finish whether it is paint or lacquer. I think the B&Q unit is good value for money as a set-up to learn on and will give an acceptable finish and, as said above, once you have the skill you can move up to a better quality sprayer if your work demands it.
 
I have sprayed a unit I made with egg shell paint and using an Earlex unit ( the cheap one from Argos ), I dont think I got a bad finish at all.

I can post some pic's if you want.

It did take some time to get the finish right e.g paint and air mix plus getting the paint the right consistency ( I use a big glass jar so you can get it about the same most of the time ).

I hope that is clear :)
 
I think this one is like opening a can of worms :lol:
It is possible to put a decent finish on with minimal equiptment,
If you are going down the route of a compressor and spray gun instead of one of the HVLP turbine units. I would look at how many CFM the compressor can deliver and what the gun needs.
The best tip I can offer for spraying the units is to do so without the backs.
Its a hundred times easier with out and you wil get a much better finish
 
Thanks for the great response lads. Loads of info to think about there. I'm inclined to give it a go myself using some sort of HVLP setup. I'll post pics of the finished product to let ye know how I get on. Could be a couple of months of though as there's so many other things to do as well.
Thanks again,
Neil
 
Bear in mind the cheaper guns generally do not atomise the finish very well - you get bigger and uneven sized droplets landing on your job. This doesn't matter very much if the finish is slow drying like paint, as there is plenty of time for the film of wet paint to flow out to a smooth finish. I used to get virtually perfect results from a cheap airless electric gun and oil based paint. If you spray quicker drying material (no experience of it, but water based can be quick drying) then the sprayed droplets need to be more uniform and even, as there's little time for any flowing out.

If you can reposition the job so you're always spraying a horizontal surface, you'll get an easy start. I got a small pressure fed system (so the paint pot stays on the floor) so you can spray in awkward spots, even upside down, as I already had a 3 HP compressor. I'm still learning, flat surfaces are OK but anything more complicated with lots of legs stretchers or corners causes me much angst!

Homesteadfinishing.com have a useful forum run by FW's Jeff Jewitt. We don't seem to have an outfit like his in the UK, spraying seems still to be subject to the secrecy of the guild system!
 
i have a fuji q3 and it makes life very easy i feel. it needs minimal cleaning and puts a perfect coat on anything. after cleaning through pop the cap into thinners in the pot much easier to clean than high pressure guns. with the air turned down their is minimum overspray. i feel that home shops should not use solvent based lacquers at all. instead spray water based lacquers much more plaesant to use and safer. there is a learning curve with both. watch somebody who can spray spray, when you are beginning and also when you are more advanced. spraying technique is fluid movement and not learned from a book. skilled sprayers are much more common than skilled furniture makers as spraying cars is fiendishly difficult.
 
Scrit":2jllw19x said:
Anonymous":2jllw19x said:
For cleaning just rinse everything in thinners - it takes a few minutes thats all despite what that other bloke said.
It all depends on how clean you want to keep your gear, Brad. At the end of a session a gun needs to be completely stripped, cleaned and lubricated if you want it to last and also ensure that you achieve consistent results. Not an onorous task, but a necessary one. And as you know cleanliness is next to godliness when spraying, just ask any professional sprayer!

Scrit

We spray pre cat primer, ac primer, ac lacquer, PU finishes, high gloss / Italian wet look. We also do finishing for other companies, and the only time we have to really strip the guns and pipes down is when we do high gloss / wet look, as any blips really stand out. The rest of the time we just run thinners through and clean the pots out.
Don't even get me started on dust when it comes to a high gloss finish.
 
The best advice I can give you is :-

Start spraying before the area to be painted
Keep the spray head parallel to the workpiece
Stop spraying after passing the end of the area to be painted

Spray little and often
Don't get too close to the work
Don't be disappointed, keep persevering.
 
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