How does 15 go into 8? with a double stack clamp rack

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Rorton

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Stoke on Trent
I have a few UniKlamps and ages ago made a quick holder for them:

IMG_4911.jpeg


That held 7 clamps and works OK - was rough and ready from whatever I had lying around, and a 'door' on it to stop the clamps coming out.

I need a few more clamps, and the space I had to store them was still the same space, no where else on the walls, so I got thinking about having a double layer of clamps - I could fit max 8 in a row, and have 2 rows, with them being 'offset' the other row would have 7, so I could fit 15 clamps into the same space that 8 would take up - Perfect!

Into the computer we went using sketchup, and started to work sizes out etc - here was the design:

Rack1.png


One layer on top of 7 clamps, and a second layer, offset by a set amount, to store the other 8,

The design seemed to work ok, so into the garage to see what we have to make it with...

I had some oak left over from the tables I built recently, so 2 lengths of that were glued together to make a single board that was 115mm wide, x 1200mm long

IMG_4912.jpeg


This was then thicknessed down to 16mm as the board was already 18mm and I wanted it flat after gluing.

Then crosscut into panels for the top and bottom rack and 2 sides:

IMG_4913.jpeg


I decided to rebate the top and bottom into the sides for a bit of extra strength, so I measured down the height of the top of a clamp (27mm) and cut a rebate on the tables on each of the sides - quick press fit dry to make sure it was ok

IMG_4915.jpeg


I then marked out the spacing for the top and bottom brackets which initially needed to be identical, as the clamps on the top rail needed a slot in the bottom rail to pass through, so I stuck the 2 panels together with double stick tape, and then started to cut the grooves on the table saw again - coming in from each end.

IMG_4916.jpeg


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This worked out great, so I split the 2 panels, and then cut the extra slots in what was to be the bottom one:

IMG_4919.jpeg



Once all cut, I quickly clamped the dry assembly to the tablesaw with a blue clamp (that's not part of the solution!!!) to to check how it would work

IMG_4920.jpeg


Idea was good, so carry on...

Next was some kind of bracket to secure to the wall, so I cut some more oak, used a forstner bit to cut shallow 25mm holes for washers, and epoxied these to the wood

I also needed a way to secure the clamps in the rack - I had some rare earth magnets left from another project, so made a couple of panels that would sit directly under the slots for the clamps, and drilled 5mm x 5mm deep holes for the magnets

IMG_4923.jpeg


Thats about where im up to at the moment, the magnets and washers will take a while to set, so once done, I will glue those panels onto the main frame, another sand, some OSMO for protection, and should be finished

Will post some more pics of the next stages when I get there....
 
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Those short grain fingers, especially the piece with fifteen slots cut into the edge, look a bit fragile to me. I think that's the sort of project where I'd have chosen plywood to provide extra strength in each of the fingers, as illustrated in the fist photo in your post. I appreciate you were probably trying to make something that's visually more attractive than some pieces of plywood lashed together, but for my money a clamp rack is primarily a tool and doesn't need to be particularly aesthetically pleasing, although looking like a dog's breakfast wouldn't be appropriate either. I'd just aim for functional yet neatly made. Slainte.
 
Your probably right. The thinner fingers are 13mm x 30mm deep, although the actual head of the clamp is supported by the whole width of timber, not just the finger.
 
The thinner fingers are 13mm x 30mm deep ...
To strengthen the fingers (you're sure to break at least one at some point) you could carefully bore a hole 40-45 mm deep from the front edge of each finger and glue in a piece of dowel. Just how you'd hide the end of the dowel at the front face might be an interesting wee challenge, but I wouldn't bother with that because having the ends of the dowels show in that circumstance wouldn't be of concern to me. Slainte.
 
thanks for the tip - while I was applying finish, I applied a considerable amount of pressure in both directions to the fingers, and they really didn't move, so im hoping that they should stay that way (fingers crossed!)

Ive put some oil on, just needs to dry then will attached to the wall and load up

IMG_4925.jpeg
 
looks good, definately a good use of space as others have said, I think ply would have been a better option for the fingers, which do look a bit fragile.

Talking of fingers, how easy is it to take the clamps out, looks a bit fiddly, especially on the bottom row? I wonder if it might make sense to set the top row back by something like 30 mm, (and cutting the grooves deeper on the bottom row on the matching spaces) which would make access easier at the bottom. As a bonus you'd also be able to see quicker which slots are which on the bottom row
 
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Thanks - I'll find in in a few hours how easy it is when its screwed to the wall! at worst I guess they could be grabbed from the bottom - I guess use the ones on the top row first, which frees up space to get the lower ones after could work?

If I had thought about it more, I probably should have done rougher version to test all this out - how do you think the fingers will break - they won't be carrying any real weight as the whole of the shelf that has the fingers cut from will take most of it, ive given them a real good wiggle up and down and side to side and they dont move at all - perhaps when the clamps are placed in and out?
 
It may be a good precaution to put a screw through each finger into something a bit more solid at the back, I wouldn’t but if you are fussy as to how it would look you could glue a wooden plug on top of the screws. Ian
 

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