How do I sharpen pencils with long leads?

[Kalimna]

I found the most useful thing to be bulk ebay buying of Staedtler pencils. The leads, of all the hardnesses, just seem to withstand more pressure.

Adam

 

[chipmunk]

A woodwork forum and two pages (so far) puzzling over pencil sharpening! :roll:
I suppose you could always ask a friendly woodworker to do it for you, if it's still a problem

...and we've been here before...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/another-sharpening-thread-advice-needed-t72913.html

:?

 

[rafezetter]

A woodwork forum and two pages (so far) puzzling over pencil sharpening! :roll:
I suppose you could always ask a friendly woodworker to do it for you, if it's still a problem

...and we've been here before...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/another-sharpening-thread-advice-needed-t72913.html

:?

That link was actually pretty funny worth a read for the silliness, the low angle bronze antique was lovely, but the woodie somehow feels more authentic.

However, I'm just going to add my preference for one of those push button pencils with 0.5 mm lead in it, then I'm going to draw a line under the whole topic.....

 

[Jacob]

...I'm just going to add my preference for one of those push button pencils with 0.5 mm lead in it, then I'm going to draw a line under the whole topic.....

Ho ho!
Well I followed the advice of some yankee geezer called Schwarz and went for a mechanical pencil with especially hardened leads, but eventually realised that they were effin useless on wood and a good old fashioned wood pencil is far superior.

 

[rafezetter]

...I'm just going to add my preference for one of those push button pencils with 0.5 mm lead in it, then I'm going to draw a line under the whole topic.....

Ho ho!
Well I followed the advice of some yankee geezer called Schwarz and went for a mechanical pencil with especially hardened leads, but eventually realised that they were effin useless on wood and a good old fashioned wood pencil is far superior.

Ah well it depends on if you are talking marking up on rough timber or PAR.

 

[DennisCA]

I use a mechanical pencil but a lot of the time it breaks off, perhaps if I had a .7mm one, I prefer cheap pencils now anyway, I just keep loosing them anyway. Got an X-acto ranger sharpener, it puts the long lead on the pen. I didn't know that when I bought it, I just wanted it because it was all metal and looked nice, mounted to my shop wall now.

 

[Eric The Viking]

In all seriousness, I just use a chisel.

Booooring!

I really liked your other idea

But seriously, whatever's to hand: marking knife, penknife single sided razor blade (by far the easiest), Stanley knife, or the trusty 1" chisel. I also have a pencil sharpener in the workshop but prefer to do it by hand because you can get a sharper point and it doesn't break the leads so often. The blade needs to be properly sharp and you need to practice.

You get better results with a knife on cheap pencils than you will with a pencil sharpener. With posh pencils (better quality wood), either will do. You can also keep a scrap of 150 grit handy to bevel the end, but it's cheating.
,
I don't get the thing about 2H leads though. I prefer 2B or even 4B as you can use less pressure and they rub out more easily if you make a mistake. With a 2H you might just as well use a marking knife from the outset.

Carpenter's pencil for rough sawn (only).

E.

PS: +1 for Staedler.

 

[Graham Orm]

A sharp plane works perfectly, you can hold the pencil at whatever angle you wish and simply draw it back across the blade.

 

[gwr]

What angle should the honing guide be for the ultimate sharp ✏ be though

 

[Eric The Viking]

When you're making Graphene with each pass, it's sharp enough.