How can I reproduce this paint effect?

[Chrispy]

I've been asked to make a name board for a church and they would like it to match the existing but I'm not sure how to get this effect in the paint, any one got any ideas? thanks for looking.

 

[bugbear]

Yikes. I have no idea. It's similar to "crackle" but not the same.

Edit; what's the scale of that photo? (i.e. how big is the subject of the photograph in inches/cms)

edit; related, but not the same:

http://www.fancollectors.org/info/wrinkle.htm

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

I don't know either, but does it include a stage where you just wait for a hundred years? ;-)

I've never tried it but the instructions on Titebond liquid hide glue say it's ideal for some sort of crazing effect - so you could try painting some wood with that, then overpainting it... I'd be interested to know if it works!

Edit - it's not quite the same - see http://www.titebond.com/news_article/11-11-16/The_Crackling_Process.aspx.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It looks like you could paint your board then while wet sprinkle something on it , allow it to dry then paint again. I can't think what would break up thin and small enough for the texture, though.

 

[Chrispy]

BugBear the lettering is about 25mm high.

Some one just suggested painting with two or more coats of oil paint then over coating with water based paint whilst the last oil coat is still wet do you think that might work?

 

[bugbear]

BugBear the lettering is about 25mm high.

Edit; here's a forum talking about wrinkle finishes.

http://www.finishing.com/0400-0599/409.shtml

But half way down I found:

I too am looking for the magic wrinkle recipe. I restore old electronic equipment, particularly old General Radio Corp. test equipment. Their early black and dark gray finishes have an unusual quality, not a fine wrinkle, but large irregular flat areas about a tenth of an inch in diameter, with lower height lines separating them. Hard to describe, but not a fine wrinkle. I believe it was chemical, since the wrinkle extends around the edges of the panels. It wouldn't if they used a texture screen or mechanical means. How how how did they do this. Since they used this finish from the '30s to the '60s or later, it couldn't have been any great secret. An additive? Baking? Some special spray technique? Help!

Sounds the same, which may be a tiny clue along the road.


BugBear

 

[Kalimna]

Depending on the size of what you are doing, there is a product called 'tolex' that is used to cover guitar amplifiers which is kind of a synthetic leather. It might have approximately the texture you are looking for, but depends on how comfortable you are covering with it. I have never used it myself, however.
Here are a couple of links.
http://kenrichsounds.com/store/index.ph ... 4pjvri9217
http://www.roadkillcabs.co.uk/tolex-and-grill-cloth/
If the colour isn't spot on then I am sure it could always be painted over.

Cheers,
Adam

 

[bugbear]

Following up the repeated references to Tung Oil being used:

http://www.oilab.info/oil/tung-oil

Says "Raw Tung oil tends to dry to a fine wrinkled finish; the US name for this is gas checking"

Searching (in turn) for "gas checking" led to this list of paint defects:

http://www.midwayis.com/paintdefect.htm

At the end (after the boring ones) we have:

Wrinkling, Webbing, Frosting and Gas Checking

Wrinkling is the development of wrinkles in the paint film as it dries, usually due to the formation of a skin. Defects similar to wrinkling are webbing, frosting and gas checking. Webbing is the development of wrinkles, usually in a well defined pattern and if it occurs in an oven it is called gas checking. Frosting is the formation a haze which is due to fine wrinkles and it occurs in gas fired drying ovens.

The causes can be:

• Due to the paint's being applied too thick, especially with high oil-length alkyds, varnishes with wood oil and too much cobalt drier, enamels based on alkyd or phenolic resins with drying oils and black enamels containing bitumen.
• Stoving paints containing bitumen.
• Frosting may be due to the products combustion in the oven reacting with the surface of the film or may be due to high humidity.
• Too much cobalt drier.

Sometimes the wrinkle pattern may be induced into the paint to produce films that will hide surface defects.

Another type of defected related to wrinkling are crocodiling or alligatoring where the wrinkle pattern resembles the hide of one of these reptiles.

Some promising sounding "defects" there.

 

[MrYorke]

Looks a bit like the wood chip wallpaper my parents used to have on their walls. Perhaps you could throw some of that inbetween coats......or something along those lines.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

You could have a look at the textured paint in B&Q etc. Some years ago I made a fireplace surround which I coated with a spray stone effect. Not identical but similar. Could overspray with colour of your choice.

It's also very similar to the "crackle" paint used on old MGBs - apparently some people use black plastikote wrinkle paint.

Good luck

Terry

 

[n0legs]

At the brother in laws bodyshop they use an additive in the paint to reproduce texture effects.
I know the ratio is important to get the right amount of texture, judging by your picture you might get the effect by using the wrong ratio. Try a local bodyshop.
The additive is Lesonal Texture Additive.

 

[DiscoStu]

Could you take a mould off of the original and make up a stamp that you then use on your work?

 

[Dangermouse.]

To be honest you will never get a match, the modern textured / wrinkle finishes are a fine wrinkle not the big time worn crazing on this sign. that paint looks like a bitumen base which after many years shrinks back to this unique pattern. So id save myself a LOT of bother and just tell them it cant be done. If they need a new sign it will be new and that's that.

 

[woodpig]

You could have a look at the textured paint in B&Q etc. Some years ago I made a fireplace surround which I coated with a spray stone effect. Not identical but similar. Could overspray with colour of your choice.

It's also very similar to the "crackle" paint used on old MGBs - apparently some people use black plastikote wrinkle paint.

Good luck

Terry

Yes, that's what I would try. Any colour will do then just go over with black afterwards, probably satin?

 

[Chrispy]

Thanks for all the ideas, I did a few experiments and the best I found was to apply a coat of gloss oil paint and then while it was still wet over coat it with water based emulsion, but it was still not the same and took ages to dry.
So in the end turned the job down suggesting making two new matching boards rather than trying to match the one they have.

 

[HappyPixie]

When I made prototype models I used spraymount adhesive as a first coat and then the paint top coat. This created a more crackly finish than the one you're trying to replicate. Worth trying on a blank.
Good luck
Steve

 

[g.m.alexander]

Hi might be to late now but you can get that effect using scumball and crackle glaze, it's an old fashioned wood effect from the turn of the century. Search YouTube for scum balling and you'll find it, last time i did anything like this you could get the materials via order at any banners paint shop.

Alternatively if you want an environmental friendly water based product
http://www.hesse-lignal.de/internet_en.html Do it but I don't know of a uk distributor you would have to contact them in Germany.