adidat
I will not buy anymore tools...
Hi guys
as some may know festool extractor hose seems to catch on just about anything, I find it catches and stops the saw moving about 5mm away from the end of the cut! :evil:
I was looking at the festool one but i thought it was a tad expensive for a piece of plastic and a bolt. This is a basic design of what i wanted to make.
From my days working at the tip i have a shed full of amazing timber that people were throwing away.
I had 2 pieces of this iroko hand rail, which had these annoying metal plates about 100mm from each end, after spending ages trying unsuccessfully to unscrew them. I ground a slot in the flathead and then used a large cabinet screwdriver with a pair of vice grips on the flat metal plate, this worked quite well and i eventually got them off!
the holes weren't that deep and i could incorporate them into my design. i chopped the ends off on the SCMS i couldn't believe the timber finish fresh from the saw, it was perfect!
At the moment I am very limited to what tools i have but recently have been discovering how versatile my TS55 is, using mitre fix i glued a stair spindle to each end
This then gave me a good flat surface to clamp the guide rail too using the slot clamps, like this.
Then i run the saw through, it was just deep enough to cut through, it gave me a fantastic flat surface to work from. you can just see the hole where i had to drill out a screw that snapped.
I then snapped the stair spindles off and rotated the wood and re glued to fresh surfaces, using a piece of ply i managed to get the the new flat edge that i cut with the TS55 perfectly flat with the stair spindle allowing me to get a nice 90 degree profile.
I then moved the guide rail in about 14mm and set the depth stop to 20mm. I decided to that i needed a groove of 5mm so i didn't damaged the non slip foam, this required two saw cuts as the blade is about 3mm. I managed to hide the screw holes with this groove.
Next I marked up the area where the guide rail profile was going to go, got to use my new secret santa ebony marking gauge which was fantastic. But this didn't stop me measuring from the wrong side of the groove #-o, which i only noticed when i test fitted the profile.
I then used my pig stickers to make the slot i realised when I finished that it would have been easier to drill them out and then clean them up #-o. That iroko is tough stuff! (hammer)
you see the gap i was left with after my c@ckup!
I then used a Felder replaceable planer blade back from my college days, hence the rust, to scrape all the manky finish off. this was very simple and easy process and didn't take very long to clean the whole metre long piece and it left a finish that would not require much sanding.
I was then left figuring out how to bolt it on I tried a few different ideas tried grinding down bolts to fit the profile, but then couldn't figure out how to get them into the wood, hence the cut out. I realised the best way was to use square nuts which come out 13mm and a bit of grinding to fit the 11.8mm slot and then i could just drill an 8mm hole in the right place and put a bolt in. Below is the profile trimmed to the right length.
I got a mahogany drawer side from my shed and trimmed it down to the right widths on the SCMS, this is to make the end pieces to stop the cables etc sliding off.
Need to sand them down so there is nothing to catch on, and then screw and glue.
\
just need to track down the right bolts with a plastic handle and add some finish and it will be ready.
thanks for looking.
as some may know festool extractor hose seems to catch on just about anything, I find it catches and stops the saw moving about 5mm away from the end of the cut! :evil:
I was looking at the festool one but i thought it was a tad expensive for a piece of plastic and a bolt. This is a basic design of what i wanted to make.
From my days working at the tip i have a shed full of amazing timber that people were throwing away.
I had 2 pieces of this iroko hand rail, which had these annoying metal plates about 100mm from each end, after spending ages trying unsuccessfully to unscrew them. I ground a slot in the flathead and then used a large cabinet screwdriver with a pair of vice grips on the flat metal plate, this worked quite well and i eventually got them off!
the holes weren't that deep and i could incorporate them into my design. i chopped the ends off on the SCMS i couldn't believe the timber finish fresh from the saw, it was perfect!
At the moment I am very limited to what tools i have but recently have been discovering how versatile my TS55 is, using mitre fix i glued a stair spindle to each end
This then gave me a good flat surface to clamp the guide rail too using the slot clamps, like this.
Then i run the saw through, it was just deep enough to cut through, it gave me a fantastic flat surface to work from. you can just see the hole where i had to drill out a screw that snapped.
I then snapped the stair spindles off and rotated the wood and re glued to fresh surfaces, using a piece of ply i managed to get the the new flat edge that i cut with the TS55 perfectly flat with the stair spindle allowing me to get a nice 90 degree profile.
I then moved the guide rail in about 14mm and set the depth stop to 20mm. I decided to that i needed a groove of 5mm so i didn't damaged the non slip foam, this required two saw cuts as the blade is about 3mm. I managed to hide the screw holes with this groove.
Next I marked up the area where the guide rail profile was going to go, got to use my new secret santa ebony marking gauge which was fantastic. But this didn't stop me measuring from the wrong side of the groove #-o, which i only noticed when i test fitted the profile.
I then used my pig stickers to make the slot i realised when I finished that it would have been easier to drill them out and then clean them up #-o. That iroko is tough stuff! (hammer)
you see the gap i was left with after my c@ckup!
I then used a Felder replaceable planer blade back from my college days, hence the rust, to scrape all the manky finish off. this was very simple and easy process and didn't take very long to clean the whole metre long piece and it left a finish that would not require much sanding.
I was then left figuring out how to bolt it on I tried a few different ideas tried grinding down bolts to fit the profile, but then couldn't figure out how to get them into the wood, hence the cut out. I realised the best way was to use square nuts which come out 13mm and a bit of grinding to fit the 11.8mm slot and then i could just drill an 8mm hole in the right place and put a bolt in. Below is the profile trimmed to the right length.
I got a mahogany drawer side from my shed and trimmed it down to the right widths on the SCMS, this is to make the end pieces to stop the cables etc sliding off.
Need to sand them down so there is nothing to catch on, and then screw and glue.
\just need to track down the right bolts with a plastic handle and add some finish and it will be ready.
thanks for looking.
