Hogmanay gifts and questions about dining chairs

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Paddy Roxburgh

Established Member
Joined
19 Jun 2014
Messages
653
Reaction score
32
Location
Enfield Lock
For New Year gifts for my family (we're very secular in my family, Xmas takes second place to Hogmanay) I decided to make something for my brother, sister and parents. Whist I do a fair bit of woodworking in my job at a dry dock I rarely make free standing furniture. I made an ash coffee table for my sister, a shaker side table (from some unidentified brown wood from a dusty pile next to the dock) for my brother and a small jewellery box made of oak and some other unidentified brown wood for my Mother. I enjoyed making these pieces and found it refreshing to make some things on my bench that didn't need constant carrying out to the river for scribing into weirdly shaped walls of a boat. I discussed the coffee table with my sister in advance and we had a look on google images to find one to copy and I showed her a range of timbers that I had in the workshop, she chose the ash. I've been promising to make her one for years since I fitted some granite work tops in her kitchen and put some of the pieces down on her horrid veneered MDF ikea coffee table and scratched the top. My brother has quite a large house so I figured that a small end table would have somewhere to go. I guessed they would want something with quite simple wood grain, kind of neat and tidy (not my thing, I prefer loads of swirl), and figured the unidentified brown wood would be perfect. I chose the table from a link Custard had posted here from an american magazine, although I ignored the instructions as they were a bit heavy on machine work. For the two tables I prepped the planks on the PT (before hand planing) and roughed out the tapers on the legs with the bandsaw and did all the jointing and joinery and finishing with hand tools. The box I did entirely with hand tools. If I were to make the box again I would swap the woods as the endgrain of the oak does not show up that well compared to the brown stuff, so the side with the dovetails does not really show up, but the endgrain of the brown stuff really shows against the oak so the boring side of the dovetails is in your face (this is even more exaggerated in the photos)

IMG_0651.JPG


IMG_0662.JPG


IMG_0667.JPG


Now the problem is my Dad. My parents already have more furniture than can fit into their house, including various pieces that their parents bought 80 odd years ago. Neither of my grandparents were rich (one mended clocking in machines, the other was a shunter on the railway) but they both bought hand made furniture when they got married that is still going strong long after their deaths. I do know what my Dad wants, but there was no way to have them ready for hogmanay. A set of dining chairs. So after champagne and whisky, infront of three generations of my family I promised to make him a set. I've been looking through the posts here and am a bit intimidated by some of them. If it takes Custard 80 hours to make the lovely walnut chair he posted then I am going to have to make some comprises on styling. I have no doubt that Custard would be loads quicker than me, and I have to make at least eight. Now, I love my Dad, but 800 hours I do not have spare. I have looked at loads of pictures and am thinking that I need to make the seats wider at the front than than the back and need to have a continuous curve on the back legs (rather than just an angle when they rise above the seat as cheaper chairs seem to have), or they will look rubbish. Thinking through the job I think it will be loads easier to make the back legs parallel to each other so the back of the chair is the same width all the way up, then whilst not many of the joints will be square they will only be out of square in one plane (I hope that makes sense?). I intend to make one chair out of pine mostly by hand and make MDF templates so I can make the actual set out of something nice (perhaps cherry, or oak) and use the templates to route the pieces on the router table, I'm also thinking of doing the joinery with the domino 700 (I have the Seneca adapter and the smaller cutters if necessary). If I were making one I would probably not bother but for a set I think it will save plenty of time. My plan is to make some MDF cut outs to the various angles that I need to set the fence for each component

At this moment I have one question, but I predict I will be back with more. I have heard Paul Sellers say that the angle of the chair back should be 7 degrees off square compared to the seat, but this was in the context of a chair with a kink at the seat rather than a continuous curve . If I do a continuous curve (with a flat section where the legs meet the seat frame) what should be the radius of this curve, indeed should it even be a section of a circle or should it be more curved above the seat than below, or visa versa?
Any other advise will be gratefully received. Making the other gifts was a pleasant and relatively straight forward for me, a bit easier than my normal projects. The chairs are a bit scary, but a promise made when drunk on Hogmanay is still a promise.
Paddy
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0651.JPG
    IMG_0651.JPG
    31.6 KB
  • IMG_0662.JPG
    IMG_0662.JPG
    214 KB
  • IMG_0667.JPG
    IMG_0667.JPG
    168.4 KB
Hello,

Find a copy of Alan Peter's book cabinetmaking a professional approach and look at his dining chairs in the designs at the back.

They are relatively easy to do they are dead comfortable and stylish even now. Shouldn't take too long to do although some allowance needs to be made if you want to use a domino. Legs to rails could be done with one, but the back rail has exposed tenons into the side rail rather than the back leg. It is easily modified though or do the through mortices by chisel and mallet. The beauty is everything is square, so no fussy joinery, and no need for upholstery. I made a set of 4 in a week, so a set of eight might take 80-100 hours.

Mike.
 
Thanks Mike, I'll see if the library can get it for me. By the way, I don't "want" to use the domino, I just thought it would make the angled tenons easier/quicker.
Paddy
 
What style of chairs are you making for you dad?

You mentioned not wanting an angled joint on the rear legs as you don't like the look, I've seen a few mid century chairs that have the joint in the back legs that were (to me) very nice - all down to personal taste of course. If you are making something mid century ish then there's a he'll of a lot to look at on the interwhatsit - the Danish mafia site was quite an eye opener for me.
 
That little hall table is great and your post is a nice read! Can't offer any advice on your question, sorry, but look forward to seeing pics of the chairs, sure they will be great! Perhaps even a few photos of them in progress ;) ?

F.
 
Paddy Roxburgh":h4tegwmm said:
Thanks Mike, I'll see if the library can get it for me. By the way, I don't "want" to use the domino, I just thought it would make the angled tenons easier/quicker.
Paddy

Hello,

You can have my copy, I don't read it anymore.

PM me with an access to send it.

Mike.
 
+1 for the Alan Peters chairs - they look much more complicated than they actually are to do and are very comfortable although we do use cushions rather than sitting directly on the slats. As a caveat I made mine from the first edition of the book (1986) and I see there has been a second edition in 2009 so woodgrains may be talking of a completely different design for all I know! But regardless of that I can recommend Alan's projects as being easy to follow - I made the dining table as well.

Regards, Tom
 
Sailormantom":1bon5cn5 said:
+1 for the Alan Peters chairs - they look much more complicated than they actually are to do and are very comfortable although we do use cushions rather than sitting directly on the slats. As a caveat I made mine from the first edition of the book (1986) and I see there has been a second edition in 2009 so woodgrains may be talking of a completely different design for all I know! But regardless of that I can recommend Alan's projects as being easy to follow - I made the dining table as well.

Regards, Tom


Hello,

They are the ones I mean.

Mike.
 
Excellent work Paddy! I'm sure you enjoyed making those projects and I'm equally sure the lucky recipients will enjoy living with them.

=D>

I'll dig out the Alan Peters book and get back to you.
 
There are distinct advantages to a curved rather than kinked back leg. Final mechanical finishing, sanding or scraping, is easier with a continuous movement.
From my own humble efforts working with John Brown's book ' Welsh Stick Chairs ', I have found that a 10 degree outward slope to the back is very comfortable. I also find that a downward slope, 20mm over 450mm, to the seat back helps with comfort. This latter counteracts the tendency to slide of the seat front. These points, to me and visitors, make easy chairs to sit and linger in.
IMG_0017-resizex-3.JPG

These chairs were made as 'Carvers', if you are considereing any then remember to make sure the arms will go under the table top. Shortening the arms will help clear the top rail of the underframe.

The tables and the box certainly look as if you enjoyed making them, well done.
HTH xy.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0017-resizex-3.JPG
    IMG_0017-resizex-3.JPG
    216.1 KB
Members of the Nottingham mafia ( Pete Maddex & Steve Maskery) have made dining chairs I think both did wip
 
xy mosian":3lqppp45 said:
There are distinct advantages to a curved rather than kinked back leg. Final mechanical finishing, sanding or scraping, is easier with a continuous movement.
From my own humble efforts working with John Brown's book ' Welsh Stick Chairs ', I have found that a 10 degree outward slope to the back is very comfortable. I also find that a downward slope, 20mm over 450mm, to the seat back helps with comfort. This latter counteracts the tendency to slide of the seat front. These points, to me and visitors, make easy chairs to sit and linger in.

These chairs were made as 'Carvers', if you are considereing any then remember to make sure the arms will go under the table top. Shortening the arms will help clear the top rail of the underframe.

The tables and the box certainly look as if you enjoyed making them, well done.
HTH xy.

Those are really nice. I'm sure the legs are a traditional design but I can see them getting snapped off
 
Can't help with the chair making Paddy, but I must say those tables and box look great =D>
 
Wow those are some gifts Paddy =D>

Don't know if this any help but here is a chair I did back in my early days when trying to keep things relatively simple. The inside of the rear legs are parallel with the only complication in the main structure was fairing the side rails to meet the taper of the rear legs. Don't know what angles I used but think it should have a bit more but not a lot more but can measure if of interest. Apologies for poor pictures.
 

Attachments

  • DSC05881.jpg
    DSC05881.jpg
    254.3 KB
  • DSC05882.jpg
    DSC05882.jpg
    234 KB
  • DSC05883.jpg
    DSC05883.jpg
    237 KB
Hello Paddy, if you really want to get into the ergonomics of furniture design then Human Dimension & Interior Space by Panero and Zelnick is the bible. But a rough and ready rule of thumb is 3-5 degrees of rake is typical for a working chair where you need to be upright and alert, about 5-7 degrees of rake is common for a dining chair, over 7 degrees of back rake is more usual for easy chairs but is a bit much for a dining chair as you'll end up with soup down the front of your shirt! By the way, all these angles are measured from the plane of the seat which is the normal way of doing it, but you have to bear in mind that the seat itself will slope back anywhere from about 2 to 4 degrees.

Woodbrains suggestion of the Alan Peters design is interesting, especially for a boat builder like yourself as the back bars could easily be fastened on with copper roves and nails.

Building on a point made recently Andy T, an alternative strategy could be to buy a set of used/antique chairs and refinish or restore them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-8-Eigh ... SwA3dYSD5i

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-6-Anti ... SwnHZYTW9t

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-6-Vict ... SwJ7RYTX4M

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1184-AMAZING- ... SwcUBYSEKt

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-4-Vint ... Swn7JYElDq

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-4-Vint ... SwnHZYbqFu
 
woodbrains":372j7g2f said:
Paddy Roxburgh":372j7g2f said:
Thanks Mike, I'll see if the library can get it for me. By the way, I don't "want" to use the domino, I just thought it would make the angled tenons easier/quicker.
Paddy

Hello,

You can have my copy, I don't read it anymore.

PM me with an access to send it.

Mike.

Mike (woodbrains), that is a most generous offer, but the link Phil posted has a copy for a tenner so I should stop being a scrouge and buy that. Despite not having read it for some time I'll bet the minute you send it you'll want to refer to something in it. If you do want to give it away then it would make more sense to save it for one of your pupils that shows promise and for whom a tenner is more significant. Once again, thanks, I am truly touched by your offer.
Paddy
 
Thanks for that info Custard. I really want to make something rather than restore something. To be honest I always find finishing a nuisance and not nearly as satisfying as cutting and chopping.
So as far as the rake is concerned, if the back is curved how does one measure the rake? Is it the angle of a straight line drawn from the seat to the top? Or is there some other way to calculate it?
I have ordered the book Mike recommended and decide what I think of the chairs when I see it. I am tempted to just draw and design my own, but this might be making life hard for myself, I'll weigh that up when I see them. Most importantly I'll show some pictures to my Dad and see what he thinks.
Thanks everyone, Paddy
 
Back
Top