Hinge system using pegs - clarification/ opinion sought

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Escudo

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I am going to have a go at making a jewellery box for the missus.

I like the look of this box by Peter Lloyd, in particular the different hinge setup which seems to use pegs at either end. Take a look here;

http://www.finehardwoodboxes.com/Galler ... ry_Box.htm

I would appreciate some guidance/opinion on how to make this.

The pegs seem quite straight forward, however I can't quite work out how the lid clears the rear wall of the box as it pivots. Do you think this is chamfered in some way to provide adequate clearance?

If so how do you work out how much material to remove, without creating an unsightly gap when the lid is closed?

I have sent away for Peters book on box making which may explain. If any members already have this it may contain the answer?

I like Peter Lloyds web site very much. Some of the boxes look superb.

Merry Christmas all, and thanks for taking the time to look at this post/comment.

cheers, Esc. (Tony)
 
There is no need for any clearance/chamfer. The centerline of the pivot in the box side is a little more than the distance from the pivot to lid corner distance. (edit just looked at the book and some of the projects do have the back of the lid rounded over)

If thats not clear I can post a sketch.

It is worth making up a model, thick card will do with a pin as the pivot to try it out and also get the box to stay open without going too far back.

When it comes to drilling do the box sides in a drill press if you have one, then pack the lid up level and wedge around the edges to get an equal gap then drill through using the holes alreadt drilled as a jig.

This and this use the same method, and its a good book

Jason
 
Esc- Jason is quite right. All I would add is that I made one of these recently and didn't think thru' the pin placement correctly and had to put a fair chamfer on the back of the lid to make it stay open. To check to see that it will hinge correctly, I would make a 1:1 drawing of the hinge detail so the exact pivot point can be worked out...shouldn't be too much trouble then - Rob
 
I find paper, tracing paper and a pin, very useful for telling everything about hinge pin positions.

Subtle changes can have a big impact.

See book 2 page 90, Rule Joint article.

best wishes,
David
 
Thanks for the replies fellas,

Jason two very nice boxes you have made, I imagine your design reference came from Peter Lloyds style/book. I am looking forward to getting my copy.

I think it is a very good idea to make up a model with some cardboard and a pin. This will certainly help to determine the exact location of the peg. I can also see the advantage of drilling the lid by way of the holes already made in the box sides. I have a drill press and have made a table for it as well.

Rob, David thanks also for your comments on a similar line.

I will have a close look at the rule joint article. It is not a term I am familiar with.

Merry Christmas, Tony.
 
The rule joint will come in handy for when you try one of the box projects in the book with wooden hinges :D

Jason
 
ESC
I find it eaier to pack the lid so that it sits flush with the top of the box. Tape it all up and then set it square on the drill. I then drill the box and lid in one go, turn it over and repeat, this makes sure that it is all in line.
I make sure I lube the pin and the pivot hole in the lid to make sure its a smooth action.
You may also find it helps to curve or radius the back edge of the lid.
 
Good boxes contain the same amount of work and number of joints as blanket chests,..........almost.

Timber is cheap compared to labour costs.

David
 
David C":1h09krxz said:
Good boxes contain the same amount of work and number of joints as blanket chests,..........almost.

Timber is cheap compared to labour costs.

David

Absolutely right.

£365 seems cheap for the amount of work involved. To be profitable at that price one would have to be able to make that box from start to finish in two days maximum.

That sounds like a tall order to me.
 
£365 seems cheap for the amount of work involved. To be profitable at that price one would have to be able to make that box from start to finish in two days maximum.

That sounds like a tall order to me.

Peter Lloyd and several of the other well known box makers have several "standard" boxes that they make in small batches which obviously speeds up production and therefore allows them to charge accordingly.

If you were to comission a one off box from these makers you would be looking a £1-2000 pounds. If anyone saw the "celebrating boxes " exhibition of few years ago then you would have seen some of the best boxes around that were realistically priced to reflect the amount of work that went into them.

Several of my clients have seen pictures of my boxes and enquired about having something made, when you point out to them the amount of work involved and likely cost there are only a few takers.

Jason
 
I agree, I also thought at the time that £365 seemed quite reasonable for an original handmade box of that quality.

I suppose also one consideration would be that the jewels inside would be worth a lot more.

Tony.
 
Have to agree with what others have said the pins are not really difficult to do but getting the hinge in the correct place makes a big difference. On the version I made earlier this year got the hinge to far forward so when the lid is opened it goes to far back, but otherwise really enjoyed making this box.

2138192262_d2225b67fa.jpg

2137411359_9d9e9087bf.jpg


Peter's book is also a very good read and will give you plenty of good ideas for boxes.
 
Nice one Paul.

I am going to make a start on my box this afternoon.

Missus has taken children round to her fathers for lunch and I managed to get out of going. Cold turkey sandwiches for me in the shed.

Tony.
 
Hi Tony
Sorry for the delay in answering. I use wax for the lube, i make sure it is spread around the socket and rubbed into the working part of the pins. I glue the pins into the box sides.
 

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