hinge suggestions please

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From that pic it looks like the hinge is folded as far forwards as it will go and has travelled 270 degres. Dont see how that will help me.

I need a hinge that will travel 100 degrees at most from fully closed.
 
the picture doesn't show it very well. you set the hinge on the rear of the box (I'd use files to turn it into a butterfly hinge for prettiness) so when the box is closed the hinge is in the 180 degree position, when the box is opened the hinge opens to 270 degrees, thus you get 90 degrees of movement. you have to notch the lid and the box in order for the barrel of the hinge to sit inside of the box frame and I'd be tempted remove material so the hinge sits flush with the box and lid walls for neatness.

so in that picture those 2 pieces represent the back panel only, think about it, how would that hinge pass beyond 180 degrees? the wood is in the way.
 
I've read that description several times before I think I am finally getting it. The picture completely confused me.
But thats an awful lot of fine detail work to fit those.
But lesson learnt, I wont make this mistake again.
 
sunnybob":3lpkj7in said:
I've read that description several times before I think I am finally getting it. The picture completely confused me.
Apologies for the poor pic, it was only a rush job ;)
Are these any better ?
3d90839a95a9eae33c827d1f9ccaf814.jpg

3ad1ebcf509b65839f0095244966c519.jpg




Coley
 
not a mistake as such, more a chance to come up with a solution. lol. I say this, as I'm in a similar position with a box I'm making, but I did it on purpose knowing I'd need to do this with the hinges. :)
 
Oh trust me, it was a mistake. I make lots of them.
But I try really hard not to make the same mistake again.
Im going back to bandsaw boxes, these hinge thingy's are above my pay grade.
 
Coming a bit late to the party, but I reckon you could make some hinges that will work.

Here's the back of an envelope to explain. You need sone scraps of wood of about 7mm thickness and two panel pins.

The hinge parts can be glued on, avoiding the thin box/short screws problem.
You don't need to cut fingers provided you make a mirror image pair.

When opened, the back of the top of the box will stop on the square top of the hinge component which is on the main box. So there won't actually be the little gap I drew.

You could prettify the hinges by carving or filing the edges.

IMG_20161220_151555255_zpshyfqc8ce_edit_1482247384964_zpsn4jmwqkm.jpg
 
AndyT":2rgyt0hu said:
Here's the back of an envelope to explain. You need sone scraps of wood of about 7mm thickness and two panel pins.

Very clever...on both counts!

=D>
 
You would need to round over the inside corners of the parts on the box itself, to allow the lid room to swing, but not the outside corners, which will actually be the limit to the opening.
 
Andy, now thats a Picture I CAN understand. Wish you had arrived at the start, I could make those.
In fact I think I might anyway, even though I have spent £24 getting some posted to me.
thanks very much.


Speaking of "thanks very much", I notice lots of thanked and been thanked numbers under the avatars but I cant find anywhere to click a "thanks" button. Any one help me out again?
 
There's a little yellow thumbs up button, dangerously close to the 'report' button.

And thinking more about the hinges... Instead of a pair, you could have a single middle part which could be nearly as wide as the box. That would be stronger. You could then make the lower part of it a decorative shape, maybe with some fretwork.
 
I found the yellow finger! hurrah!

Pete, yours wont work on my box because the lid is not deep enough to take that pivot and theres a moulding around the top of it, and truly because I dont have that level of accuracy.
I can make Andy's work (I think) if I make it almost full width. Worth a try while I'm waiting for the proper ones to turn up.
 
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