Hinge Question

[Sheffield Tony]

So simple Phil - I'm going to pinch that idea !

 

[DigitalM]

watch the attached then think about your design and possibly a better way of doing it.

I still think you'll have issues with the screws pulling out over time, perhaps a better design would be to do away with the metal hinge completely and make a hinge in the wood?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jk_rCm1rAeg

I thought you were joking at first, but no, that is an epic suggestion. I'd love to make one of these at one point but I'm at least 18 months from getting a basic forge up - so many things to do in the mean time.

Edit: I'm certainly going to steal the idea of dowelling the two wooden faces, whatever happens.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

So simple Phil - I'm going to pinch that idea !

If you relieve the bottoms of the battens it guarantees the top edge will close tightly (and make it easier to get the saw in) and if you bevel the sides of the base slightly so the bottom is slightly narrower than the top the vice will tighten it up easily.

Of course, you can relieve the undersides of the battens on one end if you wish to allow for the saw handle.

 

[NazNomad]

Mine doesn't have a base but the idea is the same. The block with the tee-handle is used between the jaws to open them slightly to insert the leather.

Surely this is even easier than your hinge idea... no moving parts.

http://goodsjapan.com/seiwa-premium-lea ... 1503-p.asp

 

[DigitalM]

Mine doesn't have a base but the idea is the same. The block with the tee-handle is used between the jaws to open them slightly to insert the leather.

Surely this is even easier than your hinge idea... no moving parts.

http://goodsjapan.com/seiwa-premium-lea ... 1503-p.asp

Yes, maybe, I guess if I didn't allow the 2mm either side for the leather faces, that would add 4mm worth of pressure in itself. Hard to know what would be enough, but then, I could clamp it all the same.

 

[NazNomad]

I suppose if you screwed one arm on the block at the base, you could narrow the block to increase clamping pressure (or thicken the leather on the jaws).

I just remembered mine doesn't have leather-lined jaws. I'd never thought about it until now but I guess leather-on-leather gives a better grip?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Whether you face the jaws or not shouldn't make much difference unless you use something very compressible. Find yourself a nice bit of ash and you can design it with plenty of spring - I was wondering about screwing at least one side to allow the block to be altered.

 

[NazNomad]

If I were making one, I'd leave a small gap and close it with a knob/threaded rod/tee-nut in the middle somewhere.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Whether that would be good would depend upon the size of the leather you were working - you'd restrict access below the jaws it the rod was near the top.

 

[DigitalM]

Whether that would be good would depend upon the size of the leather you were working - you'd restrict access below the jaws it the rod was near the top.

This is why I like the idea of the pistol grip bar clamp - it sure it ugly, but extremely versatile.

 

[NazNomad]

Whether that would be good would depend upon the size of the leather you were working - you'd restrict access below the jaws it the rod was near the top.

Good point, I've never used mine but it's obvious now you've said it. :-D