Help!

[filsgreen]

I've been trying to get the infeed/outfeed tables level with the cutting bed of my Axminster thicknesser. Unfortunately the in and outfeed tables are about 2mm lower than the cutting bed, however the rollers on the tables are at the same level, is this correct?
Here is a picture of a level spanning the cutting bed and the in feed table roller

As you can see, the infeed table is at an angle and there is a lip to the cutting bed, it is the same on both sides. I phoned Axminster and they referred me to the levelling nut that project from the machine which affect the angle of the tables . Are there any adjustments where I can raise the level of the in/outfeed tables to the cutting bed?

Any help will be much appreciated

Phil[/img]

 

[Anonymous]

Sorry Phil, no experience of this machoine but it is usually possible to set the cutter blades level with the outfeed table on the cutter block itself (I do this to eliminate snipe). The infeed table should then be able to wind up level to the outfeed and cutter edges.
The rollers seem to be too high and I can only see them causing a problem at present as they will lift any wood that is lonmger than the table before it leaves the cutter - curved plaing!!!

I would adjust the rollers equal to the tables if you can

 

[filsgreen]

Hi Tony thanks for the reply. I don't think I have made myself clear.

As you can see from the pic, the level straddles the cutting bed and the rollers of the tables but misses the tables completely. I have had another look and I am baffled as to how I can raise the infeed and outfeed table level to the cutting bed table. Does anybody know if it is possible to lower the cutting bed table?

Also as a newbie to thicknessers, is is usual for the machine to snatch the timber in? I've been practising on 16 inch Sapele and as I feed it in it is hard to get it to through the rollers (I've been taking off 1mm at a time). Any thoughts appreciated.

Cheers

Phil

 

[WellsWood]

Phil,
not sure what you're trying to acheive here. If the rollers are level with the centre table the extension tables are of no consequence really, since all the work is being done by the in/outfeed rollers holding the wood down on the thicknessing table. By the time the end of the wood is clear of the roller there won't be enough mass in the overhanging end to tip up the peice and cause snipe - unless youre thicknessing very short lengths of very meaty timber, something like 12" long 12"wide and 4" thick.
Have you considered the other possible cause of snipe - dull or poorly set knives? If this is a new machine it may be worth removing the knives and making sure they really are sharp (and properly set) since in my experience the factory standards for both these items leaves a little to be desired.
One other thing, (I'm not familiar with this exact model) does the head "lock" in place or is it a case of wind it down to the setting and press the button. If it is the latter the head may be moving slightly under stress due to backlash in the threads on the support columns. To minimise this, always make sure you wind down to the desired thickness and not up (actually on reflection this may be the other way round so you might want to experiment), and take shallow cuts - 0.5mm per pass max on hardwood I would have thought.
If all else fails, thickness peices long enough to cut off the snipe - not as dramatic as it sounds since the snipe should only be as long as the distance from the infeed/outfeed roller to the knife contact point.

And finally, not trying to put a damper on you new toy, but I know that the "CC" in some Axminster model numbers stands for "Cheap Chinese", I suppose it's only fair to assume we know what "CT" stands for.........

 

[andycktm]

Hi Phil,
My thoughts are:- the roller's will have to be slightly higher than the tables,otherwise they serve no function shurely.
As you say if you can raise the angles of the bed's then, this will allow you to set the rear roller to support the timber as it passes.The bed's will catch any shorter piece's of timber before they reach the rear roller.
I've got a cheap clarke model which just has roller's no bed!!. Although at christmas i will be getting a planer/thicknesser the aw106pt.
My thought's are not facts ,just as i see it :wink: . Hope this helps.

 

[filsgreen]

Thanks for putting my mind at rest lads, if all you need are the rollers then the machine is ok.

Mark the cutting head is lowered via the red knob, I have tried the machine and it works fine, I just could not understand why the tables weren't level with the cutting bed. The machine, I made a mistake, it is actually the CT330 which costs the same as a Makita 2012 or a yellow jobby. However, APTC were selling it for 20% less, that is why I bought this model. I agree though you only get what you pay for and maybe I shouldn't have been a tightwad and paid the extra £70.

Andy, your comments support what Mark said, in that you don't really need the in/out feed tables. I thought about buying the AW106 PT but with limited space went for separates.

Cheers

Phil

 

[Tarkin]

In my experiance, the infeed and outfeed tables on most thicknesssers are token gestures at best. Any workpeice short enough to be supported by them alone, is short enough not to require them, and anything longer will requite roller stands anyway! :? So why bother with them, if I were you I'd take them off and either make your own (longer ones that might actually be of some use) or just do without.

 

[WellsWood]

I thought about buying the AW106 PT but with limited space went for separates.

Cheers

Phil

"Space" is such an objective concept isn't it? I bought a PT and got rid of my separates for exactly the same reason. Funnily enough the 106 was the machine I looked at first - nice small footprint, but-boy-oh boy when you open up those tables it's a different story altogether!

Mark

 

[andycktm]

Noise is my reason!.Space is an obvious yes or no decision(got room or not), but when you've got neighbours it could be the end of the garage/workshop.
Look's a nice machine mind you......and i'll be checking the fence first :roll: .

 

[WellsWood]

......and i'll be checking the fence first :roll: .

...i'm sayin nuttin :-#

 

[Bean]

Filsgreen

The machine, I made a mistake, it is actually the CT330 which costs the same as a Makita 2012 or a yellow jobby. However, APTC were selling it for 20% less, that is why I bought this model. I agree though you only get what you pay for and maybe I shouldn't have been a tightwad and paid the extra £70.

Dont fall for the badge snobbery you find on here the CT330 is and will be ok for all your needs, I use a charnwood which is a blue version of the CT330. mine has over the last couple of years taken 3mm full width cuts on oak and anything else I have pushed through it, without stalling and without the need for a headlock. Once set up properly without snipe. I know of owners with 'better badged' machine who cannot boast that.

 

[filsgreen]

Ewan, I plan to build extensions made from MDF which will sit on the bench to support the timber. I think the biggest piece of timber I could work on is about 5 feet, unless I took it outside. But then I could not attach the extractor as the hose doesn't strech that far. Just have to realise the limitations of a small workshop.

Andy, the workshop is at the bottom of the garden and is insulated so the noise of machinery is not a problem, well the neighbours haven't complained anyway. I have checked the fence but only with a woodworkers square, it appears to be OK and as Mark's thread has proven if you can't get a correct fence on an expensive machine, well it is in my opinion anyway, what chance have you got with a cheaper model.

Bean, having read all the relavent threads and checking out this site http://www.gardenharmony.co.uk/images/011160074.pdf I decided on the Ct330, however cost was a deciding factor. I am an amateur so I should be happy with the results, I know I may have to upgrade in the future, but I think that is a long way off yet :wink:

Cheers

Phil