Help with repairing my table saw

[Rugbyjack2005]

I have a Scheppach HS105 table saw that I bought secondhand a few months ago. It seemed in good condition and until now has been working well. I used it to cut down a bit of studwork and I ended up braking the saw:

The blade clearly was blunt (it had been fine for the MDF that I have cut a lot recently but as soon as I tried to cut something more substantial, it was tough going). I should have replaced the blade but I didn’t have the spanner and nothing I had was thin enough to work (the guy I bought it off has since sent them to me) but thought it would be fine for 1 piece of studwork. Anyway, I was wrong and it wasn’t. It started smoking a little bit, then very big sparks came from the motor. I presumed that it simply needed new brushes (the old ones were chipped and clearly worn) so I ordered new ones. These came yesterday so I put them in, started it up and it sparked again and then cut out and wouldn’t start. I tried changing the fuse on the plug but no joy there.

Is there another fuse or have I broken the motor and if so, can it be repaired? If not, where would I buy a replacement? I have had a look for replacement motors but haven’t been able to find anything.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[RichardG]

Can you see the commutator when you remove the brushes? If you can’t then I would remove the brushes and then split the motor so you can check and clean the commutator and check the bearings aren’t allowing the shaft to move. You can also then check that the brushes are sitting nicely on the commutator.

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

Can you see the commutator when you remove the brushes? If you can’t then I would remove the brushes and then split the motor so you can check and clean the commutator and check the bearings aren’t allowing the shaft to move. You can also then check that the brushes are sitting nicely on the commutator.

I’ll double check tomorrow to make sure but yes, I’m sure I could see the commutator when I removed the brushes.

I can understand why this would cause the sparking but would it stop it from turning on now? I don’t think there’s any power going to the motor. Is there a fuse I can check and if so, where? I have checked the one on the plug.

 

[RichardG]

I wouldn‘t try and power it up until you have found the reason for sparking, could be a segment is broken on commutator or a winding has fused, that would stop it starting. Have you tried spinning the motor by hand, does it turn ok? Do you have a multi-meter you could could try some continuity checks?

 

[Sachakins]

Is there a thermal breaker or thermal fuse on the motor.
Usually you will see a wire from the switch going into a small box and one coming out going to motor winding. If you can test for power into it and ok, but no power out then this thermal overload device is blown internally.
If your unsure about testing mains supply, with power disconnected you could just test for resistance across it.

 

[gcusick]

Do you have the manual for the saw? If not, I can send you a copy.

There is (should be) an overload cutout, black button to the right of the on/off switch. Has that been triggered? Press it in to reset.

HTH

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

I wouldn‘t try and power it up until you have found the reason for sparking, could be a segment is broken on commutator or a winding has fused, that would stop it starting. Have you tried spinning the motor by hand, does it turn ok? Do you have a multi-meter you could could try some continuity checks?

I have checked and the commutator is clearly visible when I take the brushes out. I turned it on today and it started but turned itself off immediately again. The brushes weren’t seated correctly so I have tried to seat them better - basically they unseat themselves when I try to screw the cap on which then stops the spring working. As far as I can tell, they are now seated correctly (they are pushing against the commutator and when I rotate the blade, I can see the commutator moving and the brushes pushing against it). The blade moves freely but there is resistance against it, presumably that’s normal and the resistance is the motor turning?

I have tested the continuity for the motor and that is fine. The capacitor though is not showing a reading. It isn’t the easiest to make contact with the multi meter but I think I did. Is the capacitor likely to have broken?

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

Do you have the manual for the saw? If not, I can send you a copy.

There is (should be) an overload cutout, black button to the right of the on/off switch. Has that been triggered? Press it in to reset.

HTH

Yes, I have the manual but there isn’t anything in there that I can see which would help me. I have checked the overload button and that’s not the problem unfortunately.

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

It now works but is sparkly a lot again. Thoughts?

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

I think it’s a shorted armature in the motor and will need to replace the motor. Any idea where I can get a new motor from, I have tried searching on the internet and can’t find anything.

 

[Jameshow]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293760767466
Try these guys....

Cheers James

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293760767466
Try these guys....

Cheers James

Thanks. I have messaged them.

 

[RichardG]

Its worth splitting the motor, cleaning the commutator with some fine and then running a blade between each segment to ensure there’s no short between them, sometimes a bit of bush can short them out. Also a small bump on a segment can make the brushes jump causing the sparking.

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

Its worth splitting the motor, cleaning the commutator with some fine and then running a blade between each segment to ensure there’s no short between them, sometimes a bit of bush can short them out. Also a small bump on a segment can make the brushes jump causing the sparking.

Okay, I’ll give it a go. Worth a shot anyway and nothing to lose. Thanks

 

[Boozer]

If no luck and you need any replacement parts you can contact Scheppach partner for UK.
[email protected]
I was after part I broke for my hs105. I've attached parts drawing I got from Scheppach.
Pat

 

[DaveG]

I have a Scheppach HS105 table saw that I bought secondhand a few months ago. It seemed in good condition and until now has been working well. I used it to cut down a bit of studwork and I ended up braking the saw:

The blade clearly was blunt (it had been fine for the MDF that I have cut a lot recently but as soon as I tried to cut something more substantial, it was tough going). I should have replaced the blade but I didn’t have the spanner and nothing I had was thin enough to work (the guy I bought it off has since sent them to me) but thought it would be fine for 1 piece of studwork. Anyway, I was wrong and it wasn’t. It started smoking a little bit, then very big sparks came from the motor. I presumed that it simply needed new brushes (the old ones were chipped and clearly worn) so I ordered new ones. These came yesterday so I put them in, started it up and it sparked again and then cut out and wouldn’t start. I tried changing the fuse on the plug but no joy there.

Is there another fuse or have I broken the motor and if so, can it be repaired? If not, where would I buy a replacement? I have had a look for replacement motors but haven’t been able to find anything.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Scheppach TS2500. There is a built in safety cut out to protect the motor. The manual, which I downloaded free, says that you just have to wait for ‘as long as it takes’ to restart it. Mine took the best part of 24 hours and
then it restarted. The cut out is quite sensitive to even the slightest abuse of the motor.

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

So, I took the motor apart but it looked like new inside. I couldn’t see any evidence of shorting (I would expect to have seen a black patch) so I put it back together and tried again.

The blade turns freely but there was quite a lot of resistance on it. It turns on now and still sparks too much but not like before. Each time I run it, the blade frees up a little more so I am thinking that the brushes just need wearing in a bit. It does turn itself off most of the time and I’m mindful not to run it too much at once so I don’t overheat the motor whilst the brushes bed in.

Are there any bearings that could have got clogged up and need replacing which is putting extra load on?

 

[Rugbyjack2005]

After running it for a bit, it’s still broken. The saw turns on but sparks excessively and the thermal cut out kicks in regularly as there is too much resistance on the motor.

 

[clogs]

if the motor drive belt is removed does the blade shaft spin freely....?

remember the blade is geared up from motor speed poss even double so that will feel like drag/stiffnes...