help with a twisted door please

[sawdust1]

Hi all, have a problem with a door that i have made, its the first if 5 i have made for a renovation of a listed farm house, it is made from sapele and is 21/4 by 4 1/4 frame with 1 inch T & G boards both sides so weight wise i cannot even lift it. The on site carpenter has hung the first one and although it fits snug on one side and along the bottom at the hinge side, the opposite side has a gap of 10mm at the top corner, the bottom corner touches the rebate ok, i would normally tap in the corner of the frame which i also have made from 3 by 6 inch sapele but this is foamed and rendered in and plastered on the inside, it is an inward opening door by the way, i cannot plane off the lower corner that is touching the frame as the door is up against the weather bar. i cannot plane any of the moulded rebate as this has a aquamat 21 seal fitted. The only thing i would try is to plane the top edge where it is touching about half way along to see if this allows the corner to come in slightly. Due to its size of timber used i don't think laying it down with weights on the corner will help. Anyone got any suggestions please, its a £950 door so i don't want to make it again, thanks

 

[PAC1]

Remove the rebate and fit planted laths

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Sapele doors on a listed farmhouse seem a little incongruous.

 

[Peter Sefton]

I would do one or a combination of things.
1 As Pac1 said possibly use planted on door stops or scribe the locking door stop to the door and chisel, plane or router it to match the doors shape, getting the seal to fit maybe your problem.
2. Pull the door out from the frame a little at the bottom hinge and plane the front face of the door at the top on the hinging stile and drop the door in on the hinge here.
3. Plane some timber of the door face where it is in contact with the frame rebate.
4. Cut back the render/plaster and refit the frame in twist to match the door.

Check all the other doors to see if the problem has happened elsewhere, swap the door over for another if possible.

If the other doors are in twist why?
Has the timber twisted?
Is the tenon or mortice not square/true?

I did once saw kerf a shoulder and inset a thicker fillet to put a door back into shape but it was not a front door or so heavy.

Please ask your listed building officer to move to Malvern I was not allowed chipboard flooring under the carpets as it was not in keeping.

Hope you get it sorted Peter

 

[chris lewis joinery]

I know this is the most obvious thing to do but have you put a level on the frame and eyed it through,

Cheers chris

 

[sawdust1]

pac1. A bit difficult to cut away the rebate when the door frame is fitted. Thats the problem with machined rebates their is little room for adjustment, a planted on door stop can be put on to follow the shape of a door, but fitting the seal to it could be difficult.
phil.p. The doors are painted so sapele was the obvious choice, listed building control insisted they were to be painted.
peter. Thanks for the suggestions after sleeping on it i shall plane off where the bottom corner is touching the frame after planing the edge off the rebate that touches the weather rail to allow this, see how it goes, will have to do everything with the door in place as it is too heavy to remove, a 3 person lift. The twist maybe when the door is cramped up, as i tighten the sash cramps tight maybe they pull up a corner, everything else is square. I usually check with winding sticks, but this time i did not.
chris. Yes frame is plumb.