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MatthewB

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Hi,
I've got a room approx 450 x 250 cm. I'd like to erect a temporary theatre style curtain across the short edge of the room. Any ideas how to build one? As cheap as possible, to be freestanding on a carpet floor. Thanks for any help.
 
Thanks. I really am a novice, so what do I need? Ie type of wood, what tools (I have an old drill, some screwdrivers and a braddle.) And then the curtain rail of course.
 
As long as you can use a curtain pole for the said curtain then you need a pole 2.5m long support this in the cruck formed by the two A frames that Rob suggested, make these out of two pieces of 2x1 pine about 2.5m long each, drill a 4mm hole about 15cm from the top of one leg and screw this to the other one again 15cm down open the legs to about 1m apart and lean this against one wall now make another the same and lean against the other wall and place the pole which needs to be the same length as the width of the room less about 1-2cm, in the cruck at the tops, you may need to tie the two legs with a cord about half way down to stop them doing the splits. if thats not the right height for you curtain then either longer or shorter legs.
 
Thanks.

What does '2x1 pine' mean?

So I'm putting the screw straight through one of the legs and partway into the other? How far?
 
Well it would seem that that wasn't complicated enough! I've now been informed I need to construct this lot:

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Hi Matthew,

It is not my intention to seem rude but judging by the questions you've asked so far I would go to the local library and get a book out.
I would recommend either a DIY type book or 'basic joinery' type. You Tube has lots of videos too! :)

A book on 'theatrical staging and props' might help aswell!

HTH.
 
Thanks for the input. I have done a bit of looking around the internet, but what I really need is someone to say that X is the best type of wood for this, and it won't fall down if you do it X way.

So to be honest, I really need 3 of something a bit like this
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3 times, one in front of the other that won't fall down.

If I was to simply put a couple of screws through a bog standard plank of something cheap, joining to the others at a right angle, would it hold?
 

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Probably not.

It looks like you are trying to convert a bare room into a temporary theatre? All those dropped cloths and layers will have to have a simple mechanism of some sort. Fabric is heavy more layers heavier, depending on the venue you may have to consider fire proofing. In the use you plan type of wood is irrelevant cheap will do so long as its substantial enough. Having said that even cheap wood isn't cheap!

As a former touring stage manager, I would consider renting or borrowing some scaffolding for this job.

Tom
 
Dead on Tinbasher. I've looked around for some truss/scaffold solutions, but far too expensive by a mile. That's why I'm trying to build my own. This is only a very small performance for a small group, so it doesn't need to look amazing, just do the job. My simple mechanism was intended to be 'run as fast as you can while the lights are on blackout' :lol: My only problem is speed and skill, I need something there in 2 weeks basically, and my knowledge of this stuff is basic to say the least.
 
Giff":3gkr2h2c said:
Matt have you thought of these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... upport-arm. It's a quick solution that can be moved about and hidden / covered with the curtains. Geoff
Looks like a decent idea, but realistically I would still need a way to fasten the curtains/scenery over the top between 2 of them, and I've got a feeling it might be harder trying to balance on there than sticking a bit of glue and a few screws through some wood. Did you have an idea in mind of how they could be used? Thanks again to everyone
 
the frame you suggest will not be very strong, but if you added at the back something like this.

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you would increase the strength, what would be ideal, is to have a full square frame so a piece of wood on all four sides including the base, if you used larger versions of the brackets above this would prove to be quite sturdy.

Wickes diy store are pretty good for timber, i recently completed a job that went in quite a prestigious music venue, i used wickes stud work timber 38mm x 63mm (thats the dimensions) a 2.4 metre length cost about two pounds fifty, these would be perfect and can be reused for other jobs.

when screwing it helps to pilot the hole, this basically means drilling out the hole in the first piece of timber that the screws will pass through, so if the body of a screw is 5mm wide drill a hole 4.5mm. this will make it easier to get a square and flush edge.

hope you get to grips with this, these are the basics of set building so once you understand this, you are off and away :LOL:

adidat
 
Thanks for that adidat, very useful. I'll probably try something along those lines, but the addition of the side passage is going to prove 'interesting'...
 
Matt I sort of come from a set building background and we had to construct and dismantel things regularly in studio and other location properties. I was assuming this was a temporary arrangement ? You would wedge a piece of 3" x 1" on the ceiling with the props and fix the curtain to that. Either with a stapler of even a curtain track. Geoff
 
Giff":rpwde9rt said:
Matt I sort of come from a set building background and we had to construct and dismantel things regularly in studio and other location properties. I was assuming this was a temporary arrangement ? You would wedge a piece of 3" x 1" on the ceiling with the props and fix the curtain to that. Either with a stapler of even a curtain track. Geoff
Ah, gotcha!
 
MatthewB":1d2p3z4x said:
Thanks for that adidat, very useful. I'll probably try something along those lines, but the addition of the side passage is going to prove 'interesting'...


easy peasy just make up the outside rectangle on the floor, then screw in another piece of timber and wallah you know have a door frame and large rectangle.

adidat
 
I was just worrying about the trip hazard to be honest. Both of those ideas sound like they'll work, one is cheaper and one is easier, not sure which to go for, but I will update you. Thanks again to everyone for the help.
 

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