Help please with setup on BAS 316 bandsaw.

[Rogerthedodger]

Help required please

I purchased an EB bandsaw BAS 316 on Ebay - really good condition with relatively little (no) use. I had a session the other evening cleaning it prior to firing up for the first time. This was nothing serious, (well it was not intended to be) but included taking the blade and wheels off. Upon replacing the wheels, I find that the inside edge of the spokes on the lower wheel brush against the outside face of the bearing that is the belt tensioner. The shaft on which this lower wheel is mounted has two circlips - one behing and one securing (in front) the wheel so there is not a spacing issue that I can see. Having exhausted all the options I could see, I then removed the lower wheel shaft having slackened the four bolts holding it on the back and the big nut inside. Having put it all back, the problem appears slightly worse. My brains are firmly racked and I am stuck as to where to go next.

My questions are.

Having slackened these bolts, My metaphorical Harry Enfield immediately appeared and said "I don't thnk you meant to do that did you??" In redemption, the Elektra hand book does not mention these bolts nor warn that they should not be removed. Put me out of my misery and confirm what they do and what I need to know about tightening them.

Does the above have any significance on my problem of lack of clearance between the wheel and the bearing?

Has anyone any advice as to what to do next?.

Waiting with baited breath.

Roger :?:

 

[Alf]

I won't even pretend I'd know where to start, but welcome to the forum, Roger.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Adam]

Welcome also. Theres quite a few posts on bandsaws on the forum - you could try typing 316 into the search facility - it might throw up a few hits?

Also, try typing in a few terms like:

Bandsaw Tracking

Bandsaw Wheels

Bandsaw problems

You need to make sure you tick the "Search for all terms" when you put two words in, otherwise it'll find every post with either word in...

Adam

 

[devonwoody]

That wil learn yer to take things to pieces

Seriously though there is a bandsaw book (get from library) that explains things like co-planar of wheels etc.

Otherwise back to Ebay, although I wont be buying a bandsaw there for a while

Very popular place this, so another welcome.

 

[StevieB]

Hi,

I do have one of these machines but confess I havent taken the wheels off mine! I am at work at the moment so cant go and look, but its not something simple like the lower wheel being non reversible is it ie spokes closer to front than back? I am not going to be able to get to the workshop till the weekend at the earliest but if I remember by then I will have a look at mine for you.

Cheers,

Steve.

 

[PJ]

Sounds like the lower shaft had moved back slightly, probably because of the 4 soft screws used to hold it in position. I would change them now that you have them removed for good quality high strength cap screws. Slide the lower assembly into the frame and centre the round bar in the housing, then nip the screws loosely. The 2 vee pulleys need to be in line. The lower wheel should be reasonably parallel across the width of the frame, if not use the 2 side screws, of the 4, to adust this. Use the top/bottom screws to align lower wheel with top wheel using straight edge. Once it is aligned tighten the 4 screws. The top wheel adjustment can be used to track the blade.

Probably as clear as mud!

Philip

 

[Waka]

Roger

Welcome to the forum, sorry can't help with the BS

 

[Rogerthedodger]

right back again - my difficulty so far has been remembering my stupid account name and password. Durrrr (as my 17 year old tends to ridicule me with increasing frequency) Back to the wheels.

I got one book from the library (Mark Duginske) which is a font of info about coplaner setups and lots of other tracking tips I had no idea about. Great tip on the screws as this book (like the owners manual) does not mention this type of wheel setup and I was wondering where to start. I'll give it a go

When i get the thing going it seems I will have to offload it on ebay. i got depressed reading all the "whata load of cack" comments on these forums about my Tiawanese wonder.

cheers for now.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Roger

Welcome to UKW.

Cheers
Neil

 

[devonwoody]

Roger, dont be to depressed about your lovely bandsaw, it doesn't really make a lot of difference which make you have they all have those wheels which go round and round. Its just a case of learning how to drive them, like learning to ride a bike or those first swimming days.

 

[Rogerthedodger]

hello PJ

there is a problem with your advice not so much a question of mud but sanity as to wether we are talking the same machine or i have the wrong head on today

1. the small screws may align this shaft but there is a whacking great nut securing the shaft from inside the case - the tighter you turn the nut the more it will draw the shaft in.

2. you cannot put a straight edge across the wheels (duginske's book gives the same advice) as the casing (divided into two halves with two doors) protrudes in the space between the two and prevents a straight line

Any more ideas before i call EB?

Still fiddling away !!!

:?:

 

[devonwoody]

I would suggest you use spacers to counter act the obstructions>

 

[PJ]

Roger, Use a long level or straight edge with 4 spacers attached to the edge to clear the frame of the saw so as the spacers are aligned with the edge of the wheels. You can hold them on with double sided tape.
Sounds like the large nut that is on the shaft on the inside of the case is to set the distance the bottom wheel sits out of the frame and not for securing the shaft. I would set the 4 screws on the back so that the shaft can be slide into the housing and then spin the wheel by hand, if it still fouls the bearing then the nut will need to be screwed clockwise a little so as the bottom assembly is drawn outwards. Once it clears, nip up the 4 screws at the back and check the alignment of the wheels.
If you still have problems, is there any chance of a couple of pictures.

 

[MIGNAL]

For a straight edge you could use a thin piece of MDF and simply cut out a section so that it clears the frame but allows it to engage with the outer edges of both wheels - a 'bridge' type set up.
I'm not familiar with this Bandsaw but as PJ states the central nut will probably shift the bottom wheel in or out in relation to the frame. The other three bolts will allow adjustment in other planes thus enabling you to have co-planar operation. It took around 2 hours for me to adjust the wheels on my BS for co-planar tracking so don't despair, it can be very frustrating.

 

[shockingmoment]

If all else fails - call Elektra Beckum - ask for Peter in the workshop - helped me no end with a problem on my BAS315

 

[Rogerthedodger]

right - update so far:

I put in a call to EB and spent the afternoon waiting for the call back. Got bored so I had a further dabble.

The big shaft nut simply tightens the lower wheel shaft to the cabinet. How the shaft aligns within the cabinet is dictated by the four bolts - they "align" not "secure". there is no room on the shaft for spacing washers so therefore my problem is an "alignment" one rather than a "spacer" one.

I have to say that I'll have to think more 3D in future as I was convinced it was an issue that could be resolved with spacers - until i played with those bolts and saw how much they affect the shaft alignment: it is quite significant.

I played with the left/right bolts trying to angle the wheel away to the right hand side - from the tensioner. it moved a fair bit, I tightened the shaft nut and put the wheel on and spun it . Bingo - no clanking. Still, lI was not sure how to measure if the alignment I had was the optimum one other than put a blade on and track it.

I would point out that this my first bandsaw and if not for the Mark Duginske library book and it's section on blade setup, I would be up Poo-Poo Creek with no propelling implement. The EB hand book makes no mention of how to fiddle with these parts. I stuck on a blade, spun it, and bingo! - the blade moved to the middle of both wheels and stayed there. I shifted the alignment of the top wheel and the blade fell off - so I Was right the first time? . I restored the top wheel tilt, started again and the belt middled again . Checked and checked again, put the drive belt on, shut the doors, deep breath - powered it up and......... it middled and stayed there !!

Just at this point, the phone rang and it was a Steve Becker from EB workshop. I bored him to death with everything I'd done principally because as Basil Fawlty enthused when he won the money on the horse, He (and I) could not believe that for the first time in his life he was winning?? What was wrong? What was the catch?. "No catch" said Mr EB. If the blade (and it must be a new one) tracks in the middle then the lower wheel is aligned correctly.

All it needs now is for someone to tell me that this is all wrong and I have been having a bad dream. In the meantime, I am farting about with the guides and bearings and who knows on Sunday, I may cut some wood.!!!

In the meantime, I will make up some measuring sticks as advised and check the alignment some more, but for the present, things are looking good.

 

[Alf]

Excellent news, Roger. =D>

 

[devonwoody]

I told yer, its like learning to ride a bike. But next time don't undo anything for the first month

 

[Rogerthedodger]

Thanks to all those who offered advice. The problem was with the alignment of the lower wheel which is set by the 4 bolts that hold the wheel shaft. Suffice to say that it works or has done so OK enough to rip up a quantity of aluminium L section.

I have now progressed to another project and have attempted to rip some 4 inch deep oak. I have used a 6TPI blade that does the cutting fine but there are two problems.

The first is that the blade is not aligned correctly. When the cool blocks and bearings are all aligned, the blade does not track in the same line. It "bounces" backwards during it's cycle and touches the bearings.

To further describe the problem, imagine this blade laid on a flat surface and there would be a spot that touches the flat surface preventing the blade from laying flat.

The second problem is that whilst it cuts and cuts Oak very well, it makes a racket as all is not well with the tracking. In addition, even though the fence is set dead square, I do not seem to be able to stop the work moving away from the fence as the cut progresses - worse toward the end of the cut. I expect that the blade "bump" is not helping but is this the case that you get what you pay for. Mine was an Axminster blade - not cheap but maybe not the best?.

Whilst I settle down to read books about blade alignment has any one any ideas or experience?

Stop press - I have just read Mark Duginski state that using a carborundum stone run against the back of the blade to round it off is a pre-requisite for new blades. Is the "bump" likely to be caused by the weld? is this what the rub down is supposed to cure. Any ideas greatly received.

 

[LyNx]

I have the same machine, and i had the same problem with the timber moving away from the fence whilst cutting 5" walnut. I did have two new blades on order, so i waited. Fitted the new blades (Dure Edge) and all is now fine. I don't think you should have a kink in the blade, maybe wrong but i would ask for a replacement if it's new.

Andy