Help needed please.

[Jacob]

That looks like a very old piece - possibly 17 th century. ? The back splat seems to be missing as well. I think its a job for hand tools only. I'd remove the old tenons and make new ones by hand. They should insert by at least 20 mm into the mortises. You can use hide glue to make life easier for the next restorer !

No splat but looks as if was upholstered - pin holes in rebate.

Thank you for your diagnosis and suggested remedy.

Unfortunately there isn’t enough wood to work with, to get a sufficiently stiff bracket that would be inconspicuous. The back is also upholstered.

Funnily enough, we do have a chair where the top corners have been solidly repaired with inconspicuous metal splints. It belonged to my late father-in-law, who was a big heavy person. I don’t know if my mother-in-law noticed the repair when she bought it. It also requires a difficult repair - to a cross piece in the back.View attachment 104034

Exactly what I meant! Nice example, very carefully made and once it has acquired a mahogany shade of rust almost invisible. I have seen even more elaborate examples -blacksmiths with skills of orthopaedic surgeon!
If upholstered both sides couldn't you work a big bracket in to be covered by new upholstery?

 

[Inspector]

I disagree with the suggestion of draw bore dowels. The dowels are just going to weaken already thin wood and set the chair up for more cracks and splits. Glue is more than strong enough. Your choice though.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

I disagree with the suggestion of draw bore dowels. The dowels are just going to weaken already thin wood and set the chair up for more cracks and splits. Glue is more than strong enough. Your choice though.

Pete

The problem is the thing was too weak to start with (by definition - that's why it broke) and any drastic remedies, new holes etc, are likely to make it weaker. That's why it needs reenforcement with a bracket IMHO. Plenty of room under the upholstery? You could even fill the whole back in with a sheet of thin ply and upholster over that.

 

[Donald Sinclair]

That looks like a very old piece - possibly 17 th century. ? The back splat seems to be missing as well. I think its a job for hand tools only. I'd remove the old tenons and make new ones by hand. They should insert by at least 20 mm into the mortises. You can use hide glue to make life easier for the next restorer !

Thank you for your comments and advice.

I have no idea of the age of this chair. It was bought on a whim by my wife in 1963.
We had little money to spare at that time so it can’t have cost much.

There are castors on the front legs only. They are brass with laminated leather tyres.
Google suggests that this type of castor was probably made between 1780 and 1790.

There was no splat on this chair when we got it. The back was upholstered front (tapestry sewn on to a red velvet panel) as was the rear(red velvet). There are no signs of where one might have been fixed. On the other hand the front is recessed to allow for upholstery tacks etc.

I appreciated the prior use of hide glue when I needed to deal with warped veneer on my late parents’ 19th century grandfather clock, so I will use it for this chair.

 

[Donald Sinclair]

I disagree with the suggestion of draw bore dowels. The dowels are just going to weaken already thin wood and set the chair up for more cracks and splits. Glue is more than strong enough. Your choice though.

Pete

Thank you for that comment.

I will be happy to do without the added complication of drawbore dowels this time.

 

[Jameshow]

Ps don't use plywood tenons as they aren't half as strong as hardwood ones.

Cheers James

 

[Donald Sinclair]

Ps don't use plywood tenons as they aren't half as strong as hardwood ones.

Cheers James

Luckily I have some oak that I can put through my table saw to make a tenon.

 

[Donald Sinclair]

The problem is the thing was too weak to start with (by definition - that's why it broke) and any drastic remedies, new holes etc, are likely to make it weaker. That's why it needs reenforcement with a bracket IMHO. Plenty of room under the upholstery? You could even fill the whole back in with a sheet of thin ply and upholster over that.

Here is a picture of the problem corner. Is there enough room there for a worthwhile metal splint?

 

[Inspector]

That would be the piece I would cut away and use new wood and then carve the detail back. You could also cut the top crack smooth at the 10mm mark and replace it with a thin piece and do the same with the missing bit at the 35mm point. Less to carve again. A table saw kerf is all that is needed to take out of the upper bit. The lower can be cut by hand or table saw and a wedge put back.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Definitely yes but depends on the skills of your metal worker. Could have a plate to cover the area of your photo, cut out, pierced, bent etc