Help needed for designing / planning a kitchen.

[Graham Orm]

Try this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AejTGYLN6c

 

[EdK]

Well slow start....
Just made a quick model in SketchUp :

First time using SU and seems ok - I may have made some mistakes but will double check it all - I think I'll just use it as a starting point for rough design.

Here is an older idea of what I wanted :

Bought a Rangemaster Pro+ 90cm induction : http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/range-cook ... -induction

Kitchen floor is all down now and sealed/grouted :

The range gets delivered in 4 weeks or so, have priced up a variety of granite worktops to get an idea on price and need to get planning!

I guess I'll plan the units/cabinets around the range in SketchUp to get an idea of layout and configuration.

 

[EdK]

Well I've roughed out some ideas in Sketchup (I am a beginner so go easy!):

Other image links here (I won't post them all in-line on this page):

http://www.pixelstripper.com/ftpedward/ ... ugh-03.jpg
http://www.pixelstripper.com/ftpedward/ ... ugh-04.jpg
http://www.pixelstripper.com/ftpedward/ ... ugh-05.jpg
http://www.pixelstripper.com/ftpedward/ ... ugh-06.jpg
http://www.pixelstripper.com/ftpedward/ ... ugh-07.jpg
http://www.pixelstripper.com/ftpedward/ ... ugh-08.jpg

I think I have enough counter topage.
The counter will run over the washing machine and dishwasher, across the sink then to the range. And continue the other side of the range

Issues
The area to the left of the range is a little awkward. I'm not sure that the wall units to the right of the fridge/larder will have enough access room if you stnad in the corner and reach up?

I'd like to have a table in the kitchen and I've blocked in a space for one that is 1500mm x 1000mm which I'm hoping will be large enough for 6 once pulled out from the wall.
Also I could rotate the table against the long bare wall for daily use.

I also thought about not having a table in the kitchen and using that space for either a larder / dresser unit for storage or some smaller storage and then a small island in the middle of the room.
I don't think that I can fit in an island but could probably make more storage in place of the table.

I've mercilessly stolen RogerM's idea for hafele le mans corner units and I've planned these as 1010mm x 600mm units.

Any thoughts?

Once the plans are roughly planned I will draw them up properly (or roughly work out the MFC that I need and order that - will take time to get here...)

Cheers,
Ed

 

[EdK]

Another top tip from RogerM - the cutting list software (http://www.rasterweq.com/specifications.htm)

Just had a play and it has worked out that I need the following:

2800 x 2070 Egger MFC 18mm x 4 sheets
2800 x 2070 Egger MFC 8mm x 3 sheets

That's great and takes out alot of guess work (although the sizes that I entered were rough)

For the wall units should they have a top?
I've specified 18mm base and sides and then an 8mm back.
The base units have an 18mm strip or two across the top for supporting the granite work top.

I've specc'd the wall units to be 18mm base & sides with an 8mm back and a solid 8mm top.
Should the wall units have an 8mm top or a 18mm top? I thought it would be just to stop dust rather than anything too structural?

Going to work out some bedroom storage / cupboards now to add on to the order....
Planning things is sooo frustrating I feel... (v. necessary, but I fell like I'm not actually making anything!).
Ed

 

[EdK]

More things...(too much coffee!)

Tools to buy:

Pocket hole jig
I've seen the Kreg ones and the UKJ ones. Any advice? Is the basic one ok (£75 ish)
What length & type of screws to use?

Router bits
Bead cutter. Wealdon 4.8mm diam. one (T2502B - http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ll_69.html)
or
Wealdon 6.4mm diam one (T2503B - 1/2 - http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ge_70.html) ?
Am leaning towards the 6.4mm but hard to visualise as this is new to me!

Mortar groove. Wealdon 45 degree T1910 - 1/2 - http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ve_80.html )

I have a TS55. Is the standard blade it comes with fine for cutting MFC?

What screws are normally used for screwing the MFC cabinet parts together? I am new to MFC, but was planning on some 6mm dominos for reference and then screw the sides to the base/top etc. What type and what length of screws would be good?

What screws for joining different MFC cabinets together? ie you have two boxes made up and want to fix them together. I noticed that RogerM has used what looks like 2x large headed silvery screws... any info?!

What fixings for attaching base units to walls and wall units to walls?
Do you use brackets to attach the wall units?

Thanks for any advice - feel like I'm edging closer to starting....
Ed

 

[morfa]

I have the Kreg jig. You don't need the swanky holder, just the basic £30 jig set will do. In fact it's more flexible if you just have the smaller jig. The big holder can't fit into a lot of places. I have this one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088CPBRE

It's a Kreg R3 Mini Jig. Size of screws depends on the thickness and type of wood. The mini-jig comes with a pack of test screws, so use them and buy a box of whatever you need.

 

[Phill joiner]

Can I ask why the larder unit is 700mm wide next to the fridge? If you could make the larder unit 600 wide to match the fridge it would look better......And it would allow you to make the 700 wall unit next to it an 800mm wide unit(2x400 wide doors). A 700mm wide door is big when open. Also check what size doors you need for a le man's corners. I think it's 450mm min.
I would us 18mm thick material for the backs of the base units, run to the top. Then a 100mm stretcher rail run flat along the front edge. When you cut your carcase out, cut a full bottom piece and top piece then rip 100mm off one....That will do the stretcher rail and the shelf. If that makes sense.
Hope this helps.

 

[EdK]

Thanks morfa - I will have a look at the R3 - good advice.

Thanks Phill - I made the larder as wide as I could just to fill the space - not a good decision and I will reduce this so that the corner units and wall units work out better as you suggest.
I'll redo the drawing when I get time and hopefully it'll all work out a little better.

Thanks,
Ed