Help extracting a cooker hood outside?

[gidon]

I know it's not woodworking but know there's knowledgeable people here.
This Philips Whirlpool cooker hood we got with our Ikea Kitchen doesn't appear to have ducting to vent outside - but seems to suggest it's possible - we certainly assumed it was. (Also all instructions and mounting bits were lost at customs and Ikea and Whirlpool are being right pains getting us the missing bits). Does anyone know what we need to vent it outside and where we can get the bits locally? Is it a case of just swapping the bit on top with a round elbow thingy to a hole in the outside wall? It will sit on an outside wall.

I have managed to locate some instructions hereif they help - but I don't quite get them!
Many thanks!
Gidon

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Gidon,

The ducting for our cooker hood is quite shallow, oblong sectioned stuff. This is probably better than round section because it sits lower on top of the units and doesn't show. I would try a plumbing type shop. You will need to also fit a grill on the outside wall to prevent birds and things getting in :shock:

Hope you get it sorted.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[George_N]

I recently fitted a chimney-style cooker hood in my kitchen. I bought one by Neff, but I think they are all pretty much alike. The hood came with an adaptor to suit different sizes of ducting ie 125 mm round to 120 mm round that fits directly above the motor housing, if you need it. Like dust collection in the workshop larger diameter is better. Mine also came with a right angle adaptor that converts round section ducting to square section. I had to buy a separate ducting kit...Marley from B&Q, £30...It comprised a round section flexible hose that goes up from the motor housing to the right angle adaptor, 2 x 1 m lengths of rectangular ducting (with a connector) and a vent with flap valve that goes through the wall. If your hob is on an external wall you may be able to take it out directly behind the chimney section, with very little ducting. Mine is on an internal wall so I had to take the ducting at right angles along the top of the wall cupboards (the ducting will eventually be hidden by a bridging piece over the top of the cupboards and around the chimney so I had to allow an extra 3/4" height for this). This meant that I had to attack my nice new shiny chimney with tin snips to take the duct out sideways but it worked out ok and looks neat. I also added a high level electrical socket above the wall cupboards to power it.
I bought a budget B&Q SDS rotary/hammer drill and that made short work of the brick-sized opening for the vent. The vent slips through the opening and is sealed around with expanding foam.
If you don't vent outside you need to use charcoal filters in addition to the metal mesh grease filters and it is nowhere near as good in terms of performance as the steam-laden air just comes back into the kitchen.
Good luck.

 

[TonyW]

Hi Gidon
Looked at the instructions - they are not quite as clear as they should be IMO.

Looking at the picture you supplied I would have thought that this unit has been designed for venting outside (there may also be an option to fit a carbon filter instead of venting out). Difficult to gauge the size of the top vents. As Paul says it may be better to try and locate oblong sectional stuff. I have in the past got this from B&Q or Wickes - you may be lucky and find the right sizes.

Wickes pdf for ventilation for kitchens HERE

Hope this of some help

Cheers
Tony

 

[Paul Chapman]

nowhere near as good in terms of performance as the steam-laden air just comes back into the kitchen.

I'll second that. The recirculating type just make a lot of noise and give you your own steam back :? Always duct the steam outside if at all possible.

In my experience, if you go to a proper plumbing-type shop that sells kitchen stuff, you will stand more chance of getting the bits you need rather than going to the sheds.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Karl]

Screwfix sell all the ducting stuff you would need for this.

With regard to the hold in the wall for the ducting - just be careful there are no gas/electric pipes running in the line of the hole - I know it is obvious, but you would be surprised at how many times gas/electric can be bang in the middle of where you were going to put the hole.

Cheers

Karl

 

[devonwoody]

We duct to an outside wall.
Fitted 10 years ago.
Washable nef filters above hob.
I have never investigated the internal piping that vents to the outside vent.

Does this ever need investigation or servicing?

 

[gidon]

Thanks a lot all of you!
Yes we definately want to vent it outside. I think all I need is this then?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13076/Hea ... -Kit-100mm
Does the 100mm refer to the hose diameter? The hose that comes with it is 125mm. So do you reckon if I get this reducing fitting as well:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/10684/Hea ... -125-100mm
that will be all I need? Because the connector from the hood fits to the hose that comes with it? May sound silly question but may not get to B&Q.
What's the easier way of cutting a 100mm (well guess it will be a little over) hole in the breezed block wall? I do have an SDS drill.
Don't think I need oblong stuff cos it's going straight out the wall from the hood.
Thanks a lot
Gidon

 

[WellsWood]

Thanks a lot all of you!
Yes we definately want to vent it outside. I think all I need is this then?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13076/Hea ... -Kit-100mm
Does the 100mm refer to the hose diameter? The hose that comes with it is 125mm. So do you reckon if I get this reducing fitting as well:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/10684/Hea ... -125-100mm
that will be all I need?

In that case why not just get the 125mm kit

 

[Karl]

Gidon

I'd go for 125mm ducting - it will allow more airflow. Also, some manufacturers invalidate warranties if the ducting is of a smaller diameter than that recommended (ie they recommend 125, you put in 100).

Cheers

Karl

 

[jasonB]

You have to order the parts as extras if you want to have it extracting. Basically the hose and two branch bend you have is disgarded and the new hose fits onto where the supplied hose fitted to the top of the hood.

The kits usually contain hose, backdraft grille, pipe clips and any adaptor from hood to hose.

You may be able to do it with 125mm hose and a backdraft grill form a generic source.

BTW hereare the whirlpool instructions, may be easier than Ikea ones

Jason

 

[gidon]

Yes sorry that doesn't make much sense - it's just the electrician came round this afternoon and mentioned something about they could only do it with 100mm ducting - not sure why - is it hard to get a 5 inch hole?
Thanks
Gidon

 

[andycktm]

Don't forget to put a bit of fall on the duct because steam condenses and
you get water it the pipe when it's cold outside
we've got the oblong on the top for the reason Paul
rightly say's.It comes in 1m lengths, the round in 300mm lengths.

 

[gidon]

Thanks Jason - just crossed your post. How did you find those instructions - they are a bit clearer - thank you! I am missing those hanging brackets "V" - but it should be ok with the two fixings above "X" on their own shouldn't it - it's not very heavy?
I can't wait for parts from Ikea or Philips - it took two weeks to get what was supposed to be the mounting kit - arrived today and it's completely the wrong thing!
Andy - by the time we get the hoos 700mm above the gas hob - we only have about 300mm above that to fit the duct - is that enough?
Cheers
Gidon

 

[jasonB]

The "V" brackets are the ones that go in first and allow you to adjust the hood for level (screw S) you can then mark and drill for the two screws in the keyhole slots "t".

300mm above the hood will give enough for bending the ducting BUT you will likely have to cut the Stainless chimney get a thin angle grinder disc for SS on order. And it should be 750mm above a gas appliance

Jason

 

[Paul Chapman]

What's the easier way of cutting a 100mm (well guess it will be a little over) hole in the breezed block wall? I do have an SDS drill.

Breeze block is quite soft so you could probably cut a neat hole with a masonry chisel (needs to be sharp - you can sharpen them with a file or grinder) and a club hammer if you have them. If you'd rather, you could drill some holes first.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[jasonB]

What's the easier way of cutting a 100mm (well guess it will be a little over) hole in the breezed block wall? I do have an SDS drill.

107mm diamond core bit is the easiest, hire or buy. But as it's just blockwork drill a ring of 10-12mm holes and then just chip out the waste.

Jason

 

[George_N]

Yes sorry that doesn't make much sense - it's just the electrician came round this afternoon and mentioned something about they could only do it with 100mm ducting - not sure why - is it hard to get a 5 inch hole?
Thanks
Gidon

Yes, they probably have a core drill that size. I used a rectangular ducting kit. To make the hole through the wall I just marked the wall and, as said above, drilled a ring of holes through both skins of brickwork. After that I switched the SDS drill to hammer action and chiseled out the rest. Luckily my £50 B&Q SDS drill came with a set of long drills and chisels and it made short work of the job. I bought it in the sales without a specific job in mind but it has been invaluable for jobs like this (if a bit on the heavy side).

 

[Karl]

Gidon

I cut quite a few extractor holes, and don't bother with a core drill.

Basically, drill a 10mm hole (from the inside) through both skins of the wall. Then draw the diameter of the hole needed, using the drilled hole as the centre point. Drill round this hole with an 8mm SDS bit. Take a 25mm masonry chisel chisel to the blockwork and, hey presto, a nice hole for your ducting channel. Takes about 15mins. Little tip - don't try and stay too tight to the circumference of the cutout - better to be a little oversized - the cowel will cover the hole on the outside, and the chimney will cover it inside.

Cheers

Karl

 

[gidon]

Great thanks everyone!
Hoping to pass on these tips to the kitchen fitter tomorrow - but he's not too keen so me end up being me - we'll see.
Thanks again
Gidon