Hello, I am new to the forum, and a question if I may?

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sihollies

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Hi
I'm new to the forum, so am just saying hello.
I am currently working on a jewelry box which is veneered with a brightly coloured 'Alpi' veneer.
I am unsure as to how to finish it, so have made up a few sample boards so I can test different finishes.
I have french polished one sample with a 2lb cut of bleached shellac, although the sheen is superb, the shellac seems to mute the colours of the veneer, which isn't what I want.
On another sample board, I have used boiled linseed oil, which really brings out the colour and the grain, but unfortunately it isnt a gloss finish.
I was thinking about LIberon finishing wax, as they state on their website that it can be used as a matt through to gloss finish.
Has anyone had any experience in this product, and was wondering if you can use a grain filler prior to appling wood oils ( I generally use Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Clear Sealer & Filler, or sanding sealer )
I have found Alpi veneers and sanding dont go hand in hand, and that is why I have filled the grain in the past, prior to a light sanding.

I look forward to your replies and in participating within the forum

Simon
 
Try thinning the shellac down to a 1lb and 1/2 lb cut and try those out. You will still get that sheen, but will need slightly more coats to get there :)
 
Hi
Not sure if this would help, but I added BLO to shellac to extend the drying time, it may give the properties your after.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blonde-dewaxe ... 27ccf5cd4f

"A variation of the above recipe preferred by some is: 1/3 Shellac, 1/3 methylated spirit and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. The linseed oil will slow down the drying. Don’t use raw linseed oil as it can greatly extend the drying time."

Gary
 
Thanks very much for your advice, it is truly appreciated.
I have some 1lb cut which I have mixed recently, so I will try that on a sample and let you know the results.
Regarding the 33% mix of shellac, meths & linseed oil mix :I like the idea, but cant quite work it out. It reads as if you put for, example 20 grams of shellac flakes with 20ml of meths and 20ml of linseed? Is this correct, as it seems alot of shellac to liquid ratio.
Sorry if I have misunderstood.
Do you think these methods will still keep the vibrancy of the veneer, because as I stated earlier, my 2lb cut seemed to dull up the purple and yellow colours on the 'Alpi' veneer
Just out of interest , as questioned in my origional post. Could anyone advise on whether you can fill the pores of timber prior to oiling it?

Thankyou again

Simon
 
I think with regards to Gary's mix. I think it may be shellac you have already made up. So you would take 20ml shellac, 20ml meths, 20ml linseed oil?

I think pore filling is only needed if the timber is opened grained.
 
Thanks for your input carlb40.
I will experiment with different cuts of Shellac, meths and BOL.
If I do indeed need to fill the pores of an open grained timber, will the oil work just as well in comparison to a surface that has not been filled?
I am just thinking that the substance used to fill the grain may repel the oil??
I am new to different types of finishing, as I have always sealed timber and given it a coat or two of wax, so trying different finishes is a whole new experience for me. ( but I like learning :D )

Cheers
Simon
 
Thanks carlb40
I think I worded the query badly, but your reply answered my question.
I use several grain fillers, including the Rustins product you recommend, personally i like Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Clear Sealer & Filler.
I was wondering if the grain filler repelled the oil, but from your comments it does not.

Thanks again

Simon
 
Have you tried finishing with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil? I have used it, rather then French Polish, for finishing 3 guitars and was very pleased with the finish. You go through the grades of micromesh on the wood, apply 6 or more very thin coats of oil and then give a final polish with micromesh.
 
Muswell":1v0duphn said:
Have you tried finishing with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil? I have used it, rather then French Polish, for finishing 3 guitars and was very pleased with the finish. You go through the grades of micromesh on the wood, apply 6 or more very thin coats of oil and then give a final polish with micromesh.

Certainly worth thinking about, it gives a great finish with little effort. It's gun stock oil, available from gun shops but buy the smallest size - it goes a long way and has a limited shelf life.

Jim
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I will certainly give it a go.
I tried red kite carnuba wax, which advertised that it gave a high gloss finish, but I wasnt too impressed.
However their after sales service was excellent, and the sent me some brushing lacquer free of charge.

Thanks again, and I will let you know the results

Simon
 
carlb40":2qnwqkdl said:
Oil won't fill the grain pores, no matter how many coats you put on.

I use this

http://www.axminster.co.uk/rustins-grai ... prod22802/

In my workshop i have a sapele ( i think ) window board. I used the above and only oiled the timber after, and have had no issues. :)

Interesting. I recently tried four different grain fillers and the one that I thought the worst..in that it didn't stick in the grain, was the Rustin's.
 
Thanks RogerS

After your attempts with the 4 different grain fillers, which, in your opinion is the best?
I do quite alot of parquetry work, and was wondering if anyone has any experience, or know of a good clear grain filler?
I cannot use the different coloured grain fillers on the parquetry work, due to the sheer number of different veneers incorporated into the design of parquetry.

Thanks
simon
 
Thanks whiskywill,
I have never heard of that one before, but like the idea of it, and would always like the 'natural' approach.
Is there any problems when appling finishes using this technique???

Simon
 
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