Hello fellow wood enthusiasts, is this ok or would it be an issue.

[Karim Sleiman]

• Hardwood Edge Banding:
  • Made from one continuous piece of solid oak wood.
  • Features a small lip on top (male part), 2.5 mm in size.
  • Measures 30 cm in diameter.
  • Edges are 6 mm wide x 16 mm depth.
• Female Part:
  • Made from fibracolour or valchromat.
  • Thickness is 19 mm.
  • Includes a lip on the bottom to accommodate a 3 mm difference.
  • Provides a decorative line border.
• Concerns:
  • Potential issue with gluing the oak hardwood edge banding to the sides and bottom.
  • Consideration of wood movement, which might affect the bonding or fit over time.

also in the pic number 5 would inlaying solid oak wood measuring 6mmx6mm be a concern i can use thin veneered mdf instead. I would prefer the uniform look of solid wood to match the border. and usually what is veneered on one side should be veneered on the other does this apply to pic number 5 or it only counts if the whole face is veneered in this case its inlayed but sort of the same i guess not sure .Thank you all

 

[niall Y]

This looks deceptively simple to make. And if it were all MDF, then there would be no problem. The easiest way to fabricate the whole panel, inlay and frame ,would be to use an overhead router guided by a pin.

The coloured MDF would be easy enough to machine to a disc, with the required rebate to the outside, Likewise housing out for the inlay pattern. Where one of the tricky bits would arise is in bending the inlay to fit in the housing. And for this you would have to bend the oak inlay to conform to the pattern of the channel. To do this you would have to use the sort of hot, bending iron, as used by luthiers.

The outer rebated hoop of oak will also be a bit tricky. The easiest way to proceed, would be to cut it out of a solid board of oak, using the overhead router. But, there is no guarantee that it will hold together because of the short grain. It might be altogether easier to machine this from MDF and veneer the resulting profile.

 

[Karim Sleiman]

Thank you for the detailed response Niall. When you say you (there is no guarantee that it will hold together because of the short grain) you mean after it has been glued together it could fail ?

 

[spanner48]

What is it FOR?

The edge banding machined from solid oak is almost certain to fail - most probably during machining - because of the short grain. Even when attached to the MDF disc. Vastly stronger would be to steam-bend 6 x 16mm oak strip into the circular shape, and tapered sleeve-joint the ends togather.

 

[profchris]

I've made ukuleles from oak, so I can comment on the inlay.

Oak bends quite easily over a hot pipe at 1.8 mm. However, 2.5 mm could be hard work - I think it will bend, but it might start to separate on the outside of bends and will certainly wrinkle on the inside.

The sharpest bend is too sharp for anything much thicker than 1 mm, the other bends should be fine.

Finally, you'll need straight and vertical grained strips with no runout, else they may break at the bends

 

[Karim Sleiman]

What is it FOR?

The edge banding machined from solid oak is almost certain to fail - most probably during machining - because of the short grain. Even when attached to the MDF disc. Vastly stronger would be to steam-bend 6 x 16mm oak strip into the circular shape, and tapered sleeve-joint the ends togather.

Hi Spanner, its a board game table. thanks for the info on the short grain i get it now ill look into tackling it

 

[Karim Sleiman]

I've made ukuleles from oak, so I can comment on the inlay.

Oak bends quite easily over a hot pipe at 1.8 mm. However, 2.5 mm could be hard work - I think it will bend, but it might start to separate on the outside of bends and will certainly wrinkle on the inside.

The sharpest bend is too sharp for anything much thicker than 1 mm, the other bends should be fine.

Finally, you'll need straight and vertical grained strips with no runout, else they may break at the bends

Hi Profchris, This is great example Ukuleles. Ill experiment with your concept of hot pipe Thank you!

 

[Karim Sleiman]

Hi Spanner, its a board game table. thanks for the info on the short grain i get it now ill look into tackling it

also spanner if i steam bend into the circular shape as you mentioned would it still be ok for the glue up since it will be glued to the sides and the bottom rebate of the coloured mdf of can this be an issue ? should i remove the bottom rebate and glue it to the sides only.

 

[niall Y]

Thank you for the detailed response Niall. When you say you (there is no guarantee that it will hold together because of the short grain) you mean after it has been glued together it could fail ?

Hi Karim.
Yes, it can fail during machining , or after. Though if you are lucky it can be glued back invisibly. Which is why I suggested machining it in MDF and veneering this afterwards.

You can indeed use solid oak strip as @spanner48, describes. You will need heat to bend this into a circle. You will also need to bend past the circle so that you don't have flat ends trying to poke up. And, you have to splice it neatly together. I have a similar challenge coming up soon, but thankfully I'm dealing with a smaller disc, and I just know it will take several attempts to get it right.

If you are doing this it is a lot easier without the added complication of a rebate . This could be machined after, though the band will be quite delicate around the glue joint , unless supported
When fitting around a circular form, it's difficult to get the wood length exactly right without it being marginally too short, or having a slight step at the splice.

One way that I have seen recommended, for clamping this type of edging to a circular form. is to use large opened out, jubilee clips, combined together, to give one. giant band, that fits around the circumference.

Best of luck. Niall

 

[Karim Sleiman]

Hi Karim.
Yes, it can fail during machining , or after. Though if you are lucky it can be glued back invisibly. Which is why I suggested machining it in MDF and veneering this afterwards.

You can indeed use solid oak strip as @spanner48, describes. You will need heat to bend this into a circle. You will also need to bend past the circle so that you don't have flat ends trying to poke up. And, you have to splice it neatly together. I have a similar challenge coming up soon, but thankfully I'm dealing with a smaller disc, and I just know it will take several attempts to get it right.

If you are doing this it is a lot easier without the added complication of a rebate . This could be machined after, though the band will be quite delicate around the glue joint , unless supported
When fitting around a circular form, it's difficult to get the wood length exactly right without it being marginally too short, or having a slight step at the splice.

One way that I have seen recommended, for clamping this type of edging to a circular form. is to use large opened out, jubilee clips, combined together, to give one. giant band, that fits around the circumference.

Best of luck. Niall

Niall, Thank you so much for all the info. Best of luck to you aswell cheers.

 

[niall Y]

Ii is just a thought, but I was wondering if a different approach to forming the outside edging would be acceptable. A circular edging could be laminated out of veneer, much as wooden hoops used to be. It wouldn't necessarily be obvious that the oak was laminated, but appear as nice straight grain. This approach would be a lot mere reliable and repeatable if one were manufacturing a run of products.
You would start with a long gentle slope to the veneer, to get over that initial abrupt step and continue wrapping until the correct thickness had been achieved, The continuous strips you get in Oak iron-on edging would be useful as you don't need to make additional joins, The glue, however is probably too soft and might have to be removed and something more reliable used for the actual glue up.

 

[Karim Sleiman]

Ii is just a thought, but I was wondering if a different approach to forming the outside edging would be acceptable. A circular edging could be laminated out of veneer, much as wooden hoops used to be. It wouldn't necessarily be obvious that the oak was laminated, but appear as nice straight grain. This approach would be a lot mere reliable and repeatable if one were manufacturing a run of products.
You would start with a long gentle slope to the veneer, to get over that initial abrupt step and continue wrapping until the correct thickness had been achieved, The continuous strips you get in Oak iron-on edging would be useful as you don't need to make additional joins, The glue, however is probably too soft and might have to be removed and something more reliable used for the actual glue up.

the iron edge banding is a good idea was thinking along the same path, now I'm thinking what if i change the shape into something more of an oval or pill shaped where the short grain will be on the top and bottom only a small part. ive been seeing these catch all trays which all seem to have a shape of a pill just thinking not sure though.
and instead of 6mm width i can make it thicker and the lip on top of the oak can also be thicker maybe around 5mm.

 

[richarddownunder]

I've made ukuleles from oak, so I can comment on the inlay.

Oak bends quite easily over a hot pipe at 1.8 mm. However, 2.5 mm could be hard work - I think it will bend, but it might start to separate on the outside of bends and will certainly wrinkle on the inside.

The sharpest bend is too sharp for anything much thicker than 1 mm, the other bends should be fine.

Finally, you'll need straight and vertical grained strips with no runout, else they may break at the bends

Could you laminate 3 x 1mm thick strips, which would bend quite easily over a hot pipe? That would make it stronger, and you could incorporate a rebate easily.

edit...Oh, rats, should have read on as this has already been suggested.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Karim Sleiman]

Could you laminate 3 x 1mm thick strips, which would bend quite easily over a hot pipe? That would make it stronger, and you could incorporate a rebate easily.

edit...Oh, rats, should have read on as this has already been suggested.

Cheers
Richard

Hi Richard, haha ya i guess the higher votes are around pipe bending will have a go at it. Cheers

 

[profchris]

Until I got a proper luthiers bending iron, my kit was a foot long piece of the tube from a caravan jockey wheel with a heat gun stuck in one end.

You hold the wood on the pipe, rocking it to heat an inch or so, and gently pressing the wood to the pipe. You'll feel when it becomes plastic, don't try to bend it before then. Once the bend starts, work it along the wood until you have the curve you want.

Overbending a little is good because the wood springs back part way as it cools. A wet rag on the pipe puts steam through the wood to get heat to the middle before the outside scorched. Some species hate steam, but oak is ok.

A strip of metal held tightly to the outside of the bend helps resist separating of the fibres. Not steel for oak though, it stains.

Make practice strips - pipe bending is all about feeling it, and the first few will kink or snap!