Heated glue cabinet

[JustBen]

I am thinking about building a heated glue cabinet after seeing this...
http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Proje ... net-1.html

It does seem like a good idea but I have some concerns about fire safety.

In the cabinet would go all my glues, finishes and anything else that is susceptible to the cold.
Obviously some of these are flammable.

Does anyone see a fire hazard here or is it just me being over cautious?

Would a heat mat be a viable alternative (reptile vivarium mat)?

I was also thinking about a foil lining but this may be overkill.

Anything about it you would change?

Thanks.

 

[Berncarpenter]

Sorry this isnt an answer to your questions but sitting here having my breakfast and my noisy old fridge kicked into life and it gave me an idea :idea: an old fridge or freezer would be perfect for this situation ,ok i know its not wood and its not pretty but it would be well insulated and sealed and it already has the light bulb. Just needs a bit of jiggery pokery to get it to work. (hammer)

I do like the way he got over the shelf problem and the door catch was neat as well

Cheers Bern.

 

[MMUK]

For a start I'd put the stat at the top of the cabinet (if you need a stat let me know, I have loads of Rittal ones).

Secondly, I would not use a light bulb. You'd be better off with a greenhouse tube heater, you can get them as short as 12" long. Here's a 12" 45w heater: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HETH451.html

 

[JustBen]

Yeah I did think it would be better to move the thermostat further away.

I need to research thermostats as I'm not sure how they wire up.
I don't know if they are inline like a switch etc.

Would you not use a light bulb due to inefficiency or because of the fire hazard?

As with everything I do, it would have to be on a budget.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

Rather than using a light bulb you could also use reptile ceramic heater bulbs, have an ES so you can use them in a ceramic light socket. Come in wattages from 40 up to 300w.

Coming from a reptile background I would place the thermostat probe in the middle of the enclosure with the stat set to the ambient temperature you want. If you place it at the top you will end up with very hot bottom shelves, placing it in the middle gives you a hot, ambient and cooler areas.

You could also use a reptile thermostat for the job which cost as little as £25, look for a Microclimate mat stat, rated for upto 100w, 3 cables, 1 prob, 1 power source and the third to plug your chosen heat source into.

Light bulbs are less efficient than ceramic heaters.

 

[JustBen]

Thanks for the info.

I've been thinking about he efficiency issue and I figure that the additional cost of buying a heater tube or ceramic heater and reptile thermostat, it would take my bulb a long time to equal the cost in electricity.

I can only see it being on for a few hours a day @ a few pence.
I already have the bulb, holder and cabling. I only need a thermostat which is £3 or there abouts.

My main concern is the safety element.

 

[foxhunter]

If you want to go the route of tubular heaters this is what I use, 12w is enough for me. Make sure there is room for circulation in the cabinet.
http://www.cupboard-heaters.co.uk/32-lo ... umidifiers

 

[PAUL_TDI]

I can't see it being an issue, in reptile vivs there is often a bulb close to wood and worse is the wood blackens near the bulb over time.

I suppose you could screw some ally sheet to the top of the bulb area to protect the wood and as a heatsink which will then spread the heater better over the width of the cabinet.

I didn't realise household stats are so cheap, I'm guessing the stat probe is inside the stat housing? In which case you may just need a thermometer in the top of the cab to adjust your temp on initial setup.

 

[MMUK]

Yeah I did think it would be better to move the thermostat further away.

I need to research thermostats as I'm not sure how they wire up.
I don't know if they are inline like a switch etc.

Would you not use a light bulb due to inefficiency or because of the fire hazard?

As with everything I do, it would have to be on a budget.

The Rittal stats I've got a decent supply of are simple 2 wire. They're set up for different voltages so all you'd need to do is wire up the live from the mains into the common terminal and the live out to the heater to the terminal marked 240v.

I've got loads so just send me a PM with your address if you want one.

 

[nev]

would it work with low energy bulbs and a glass shelf? or would that not be warm enough?

 

[JustBen]

If it ran with a 60w bulb it would cost around 20p a day if on constantly.
I should imagine it would only be on for 1/3 of a day if that.
If it's lightly insulated, it should retain the heat for a while and it's only really for the winter months.

 

[PAUL_TDI]

would it work with low energy bulbs and a glass shelf? or would that not be warm enough?

Enery savers like flourescent tubes barely give out any heat thus being energy savers as a lot of energy on a incandescent bulb is given out as heat rather than light.

 

[riclepp]

as for the fire issue. You would need to look at the flash point of each item that you are putting in there. If we look at flash point a majority of the tests are done by a closed cup test and these flash point can be as low as 1 degree c. So with this in mind you would need a very good therometer and a suitable way of venting if it gets too warm without the need of opening to cupboard. Some of the finishes and glue we use can be volitile if mixed due to spillage so it would need careful cleaning of cans/bottles or whatever prior to putting them away.

Also as things get warmer they may/tend to vapourise, which may give rise to a flash fire, so this is also a reason as to why you would need some vening system.

Someone mentioned a fridge, possibley a good idea as there are already holes through which the cooling system enters, strip them out you could then fix up some form of venting/purging system if it get too warm.

 

[nev]

would it work with low energy bulbs and a glass shelf? or would that not be warm enough?

Enery savers like flourescent tubes barely give out any heat thus being energy savers as a lot of energy on a incandescent bulb is given out as heat rather than light.

Understood, but they still get quite warm and you're not trying to cook the glue just keep it a degree or two above freezing.