Has anyone here made an opening rooflight?

[MikeG.]

Not a lantern, but a glazed rooflight. If so, is it inevitable that I'll need a stepped DG unit? Any tips or experience welcome, photos are better, and detail sections better still.

 

[Mike Jordan]

Is this a light to fit in a roof slope or a flat roof?

 

[MikeG.]

Sorry, I should have said. It's on a flat roof. The upstand is in place.

 

[Mike Jordan]

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I make these for Dutch barge owners and others. The design is highly rated since its leakproof, many of the roof lights on boats are poorly made and drip in the winter.
The corners of the box are dovetailed and the material is Iroko with flush double glazing.
The bars are stainless and prevent ropes and boat poles etc from breaking the glass. Not a problem you will have.
Mike.

 

[Max Power]

How is it sealed along the hinge line Mike ?

 

[Mike Jordan]

It isn't sealed, it has a gutter and drip rail which runs the water sideways. I will find a photo.

 

[Mike Jordan]

If you enlarge the top photo it is visible at the ridge.

 

[AJB Temple]

The drip rail is ingenious. I have seen a similar idea manufactured out of aluminium or stainless steel which also double as the hinge. I consists of a tube with a section slightly under half missing and another tube to which the window is fitted, which has to slot into first tube which is affixed to the frame. Saw this on an ocean going yacht and then realised we have an almost identical design on our cold frames.

 

[MikeG.]

/attachment]

I make these for Dutch barge owners and others. The design is highly rated since its leakproof, many of the roof lights on boats are poorly made and drip in the winter.
The corners of the box are dovetailed and the material is Iroko with flush double glazing.
The bars are stainless and prevent ropes and boat poles etc from breaking the glass. Not a problem you will have.
Mike.

That looks absolutely lovely, Mike. The flush glazing/ frame junction detail is something I'd love to see up close. =D> The other thing I forgot to say was that this rooflight is also my roof access, and as the opening is only 600 by 800 I don't think a central bar would work. Making it into a rooflight is an afterthought, you see, or I would have made the opening much larger. It was originally just going to be an access hatch.

 

[Mike Jordan]

That's made me think a little! First thoughts are that you could turn the ridge round to bridge the shorter distances And that may give enough room to climb through?
Failing that it might be possible to hinge the whole box to give access. Big drawback to this is the weight of the box.
What isn't obvious from the photos is that the boaters version has barrel bolts securing the ridge, these and quick release screw jacks for opening the lights allow the ridge and lights to be lifted off to allow large items of furniture , washing machines etc to be lowered into the boat. Again it's not a feature you need.
My other thought is to make a single slope similar to a traditional sloping roof light.
Gas struts to take the weight of the box or light?

 

[AndyT]

I expect you want to make your own, Mike, but picking up on the boating theme for a moment, you might want to look at the wide range made by people like Vetus.

https://www.vetus.com/en/boat-windows/e ... tches.html

By using suitable materials, they produce something which seals properly, can open as a vent, but is also light enough to flip right back if needed as an escape route. They aren't cheap but might be food for thought.

 

[Mike Jordan]

Hi Andy
I am familiar with Vetus as a supplier. Your description sounds like the Houdini hatch, much used in offshore boats as a means of escape. My experience with narrow boats tells me that they are a nightmare in terms of condensation problems. The alloy surround is the cause rather than the double glazed portion. They would certainly be a none starter for domestic use in my view.

 

[AndyT]

Good point - I didn't study the spec of every one, but sort of expect they'd have a thermal break version by now.