Well done that man :lol: :lol: you did well!
Your unknown brackets, I may be wrong but do they not go under the lathe bed to clamp the tail stock onto the bed.
Look under the tailstock, does it have bolts coming out of the bottom and do they line up with the holes in the brackets.
If not the tailstock, then maybe the tool rest banjo.
Oh, and the Henry Taylor, should have a number stamped on it that will tell what it is.
Both headstock and tailstock have a single bolt that gors through the bench and should have a big washer and nut to tighten up. I have a Coronet but don't recognise these brackets. May mean I've got something missing though (on the lathe!!)
It looks as though the rails are a tad rusty, give them a good going over with some WD40 and wet & dry and then wipe over with wax polish. The tightening mechanism for the banjo and tailstock will drive you mad otherwise every time you try and move them.
The chisels look opretty old, but that's no bad thing. Check whether they are HSS or Carbon steel though. Chas or someone will tell you how if you don't know.
Certainly a good hail. Lathe usually goes for about £50 ish so the chisels and blanks are basically all free.
rikey att, that looks very similar to my Record CL1 ad it cost a LOT more than your bargain!
As Bodrighy said, you need to clean up the bed bars or you realy will be tearing your hair out when you want to move either tool rest or tail stock. My bars are bright steel, but I use Slick50 spray on them. So after you have got rid of the rust.
Strip the chucks if they are rusty, clean the rust off of them and put some WD40 on them. It will pay devidends, but make sure that they are oil and grease free 'cause it will stain your wood!
Just had a thought? Do you know of a friendly engineering firm near you that would spin and polish the bed bars for you? If you can blag them it probably wouldn't cost more than a few ££ and in my book would be well worth the trouble. It would get rid of the pitting caused by the rust and the kit will glide on the bars.
Jon: (scuse the quick highjack Matt)
Have you got the measurements etc for a Carom board and the rules? I haven't played that since I was in India many moons ago. We used to play it a lot on the ships. Also see you do fancy knotwork.
Started a new thread on it Bod... It's in Projects, workshop tours and past mistakes! Not too sure about the mistakes bit, but you can hide a million mistakes with some careful cornering?? :roll:
A little bit of rope work. That's a monkeys fist, as you probably know well, and I also made the nets for the board. I couldn't find any anywhere.
matt - I have an old roughing gouge you can have , for nowt, (its a 1" one and i havent used it since buying a 1.5" ), pm me your address and I'll post it to you.
Wow - what a wonderfull bunch of people thankyou all. Offers of some guidance (and I need it!) and a roughing gouge!
Tried another old bit of pine last night, got it pretty cicrular on my faceplate and then cut a foot for the bowl. Turned it round and mounted it
in my chuck to try and hollow out, unfortuntly got a bad dig in (is that the right phrase?) and it caused the foot on the bowl to break.
It all felt very hard last night, with lots of digs and the tools not cutting, was a bit dissapointed after the previous nights fun. I think this week I
am going to try reading a bit more and making a jig for sorting my chisels
out before playing anymore, I think they are blunt and the wrong shape.
Are there any links to homemade jigs? I have seen some photo's of a few good ones on here.
Hi Matt,
If your looking for a home made jig for sharpening, the one in Keith Rowleys book "Woodturning a foundation course" i`ve found extremely useful, as is all the information in his book.
Here is a photo of my interpretation of his jig.
Good luck with your turning, the slope is a steep one!
That's the name of the book I have been meaning to track down! Since I don't have to purchase a gouge now after mooses kind offer, Amazon had a copy "like new" for 3.80 + 2.75 postage. Hurrah for one click ordering!
Hopefully this book will point me in the right direction! Does it contain pictures of the shape that chisels should be? I am sure my bowl gouges
are the wrong shape.
Thanks again! I do not think my jig will look anywhere near that nice!
Matt,
For a quick reference to the shape of gouges etc have a look in the tool catalogues, i know Stiles & Bates do close up shots, though don`t state the grind angle.
At least that way you know what tool should have which shape.
Doug.
I have used mine for several years now and wouldn't bother with anything else. So easy to use!
To do a fingernail grind on a spindle gouge all you have to do is to start the gouge at an angle
and slowly rock it as you bring the handle round
Until you reach the other end of the cutting edge
Good-ere-init
For bowl or roughing gouges just adjust the cutting angle and roll the gouge across the jig. Because it is moving across the stone as you cut you don't screw up the stone face.
Cost --- 3 bolts, 2 nuts and a wing nut along with some scrap wood. I radiused the back of my jig so that the spindle gouges don't catch the corners as the move.
Hi Matt,
Welcome to woodturning, I'm sure you will have many hours of enjoyment from that machine.
That was a bargain and you outbid me with seconds to go .
I was after this one for my boy as he has started turning now and is constantly using my coronet no3 leaving me to use the axminster. Although the axminster is a good lathe for some reason I prefer to use the coronet.
I have owned several lathes since starting turning back in 85 and although there are better lathes out there the coronet is a good one to get started on and continue with for years. Also as these have been around for years there are plenty of bits available for them. I have cam locks on my tool rests now for example, makes adjusting the rest so much quicker.
This may give you a little idea of what you are looking for with the gouges. IMO it is a lot easier to use a home made jig to do these two chisels. I know with a little experience you can do the shaping/sharpening by hand, and I used to. Yet since I made myself a copy of the Hamlet jig I use it for the gouges all the time. All the other tools I possess are sharpened on a flat table similar to what the others have shown. Just made of steel.
One of the easiest sharpening jigs to make is this one, just keep clicking through the pages using the "next" link at the bottom of each page. Very, very, simple, and effective.
Pity you where not a bit closer to Chester, I would have been happy to spend a afternoon with you showing you how I go about it.
Not that easy to find your way around this site, but he does do some good bits and pieces for turning.
Just past the end of the article there is a small 'Home Next' just keep clicking on the next on each page it will take you onwards.
There is 5 pages to the whole thing, then the 6th. has some videos of the gear being used.
I like the principal of it because it is all fixed. The only adjustment is the arm rest being moved in and out to adjust the grinding angle. I made similar out of steel, but wood works just as well.
Thanks Neil, very kind. I have seen this book referred to several times
as a usefull reference, and amazon had one secondhand "like new" only
cost me 6 pounds, so even I can stretch to that.
Just waiting for it to turn up so I can make my jig.