dunbarhamlin
Established Member
Hi folks
Am getting curious about tensioning hand saws (back saws too, but one thing at a time...)
I've come across multiple hints that the cutting edge should be tensioned by selective hammering of the blade, but no indication of what pattern (or degree) of thinning (and so periferal tension) is desired.
To complicate, have also read (here, in a previous thread about unbending a blade) that if a blade does the jam jar lid noise, it's shot. Is this then perhaps a possible consequence of over tensioning?
Would the process be similar to a bandsaw blade, where depending on the tyre crown I hear tell that mostly the middle, but also the back of the blade can be stretched a little with a hammer to direct the tension to the cutting edge?
Also, what metric might one use to decide that a blade required tensioning and, indeed, when enough had been applied.
Presume, if minimally set and erratically wayward, when another saw similar behaved as expected (to rule out technique) this may be a factor - but which way? Or both?
Are there any good references on this available at non collector prices?
Thinking about rip/hand/panel/table/compass saws here.
Thanks
Steve
Am getting curious about tensioning hand saws (back saws too, but one thing at a time...)
I've come across multiple hints that the cutting edge should be tensioned by selective hammering of the blade, but no indication of what pattern (or degree) of thinning (and so periferal tension) is desired.
To complicate, have also read (here, in a previous thread about unbending a blade) that if a blade does the jam jar lid noise, it's shot. Is this then perhaps a possible consequence of over tensioning?
Would the process be similar to a bandsaw blade, where depending on the tyre crown I hear tell that mostly the middle, but also the back of the blade can be stretched a little with a hammer to direct the tension to the cutting edge?
Also, what metric might one use to decide that a blade required tensioning and, indeed, when enough had been applied.
Presume, if minimally set and erratically wayward, when another saw similar behaved as expected (to rule out technique) this may be a factor - but which way? Or both?
Are there any good references on this available at non collector prices?
Thinking about rip/hand/panel/table/compass saws here.
Thanks
Steve
