Hand planing a table top

[gavgoodair]

I desperatley need some help,
I’ve got myself in to a bit of a pickle regarding an oak table top.

The top itself is 5’ by 3’ ish and made from 11, 5 ½” wide boards running transverse across the table.

My problem is flattening and smoothing the top by hand. I’ve already done one side using planes and scrapers but because the grain is all over the place in different directions, sometimes within the same board, it’s a bit of a pain to say the least. Just as I think I’m getting there the plane will dig in a rip up a chunk of the grain and then it’s back to square one. I don’t want to go any further now as I’m creating more and more work for myself.

So, without the use of a drum sander or a low angle plane could someone please give me some tips as to how they would go about it?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[studders]

Either a belt sander or a Number 80 (080?) scraper will do the job. I'd avoid using a standard set plane if it's taking chunks, else you'll be there forever.

 

[Chrispy]

Have you tried planing across the grain? you still need to set the plane up right and don't forget to use a bit of candle.

 

[Jonzjob]

I had to do a table top, all be it a pine one, and I used a Bosch belt sander with a micro adjuster on it to control to depth of the cut. It was very good, quick and acurate.

I think this was the one. I've had it a long while now and really good for large surfaces. Not sure if it comes with the micro adjuster now, but it came with all the other bits including the shown extras.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-bosch- ... prod22155/

 

[Paul Chapman]

A bit more information on the tools you have available would be helpful. If you have a scraper plane, that would do the job. I finished the top of this oak table with one

However, if you only have a card scraper that will only be good for dealing with localised tearout.

If you're using a bevel-down plane, you could increase the effective pitch of the blade by honing a back bevel on the blade. That will help in dealing with tearout. You need to get the blade as sharp as possible and take only light shavings.

If all else fails, you could sand the top.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Peter Sefton]

I think Paul has just about said it all, but you could try the no 62 with a high angle blade.

Cheers Peter

 

[joiner_sim]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

As others have already said a belt sander will do the job. It's not a "traditional" method, but it is a modern method and alternative to a drum sanding machine. It is what I did with a smaller table top than the one you are having to deal with though:

The only advice I would definatley give you on belt sanding, wether it be a single piece of timber or a wide table top, is to keep the sander constantly moving, backwards and forwards and in your case of the table top side to side also, to achieve an even-ish top. If you do not keep it moving the top will become lumpy and possibly irrepairable!

 

[gavgoodair]

Thanks for all your comments.

I've so far only been using a card scraper and think that the way to go could be a no 80. I'll get hold of one over the next few days and see if it solves the problem.
I'll let you know how i get on.

Thanks again

Gavin

 

[Froggy]

Do you go with the grain when using a scaper plane?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Do you go with the grain when using a scaper plane?

The advantage of a scraper plane is that you can plane with or against the grain. This is helpful when dealing with things like table tops where the boards have been arranged for appearance rather than grain direction and the grain goes in different directions.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[custard]

Honestly, the best advice, get David Charlesworth's latest DVD "Five Topics". You'll come away from the experience knowing exactly how to deal with "difficult grain" using a bevel down, bevel up, or scraper plane. If you follow his principles you can tackle any grain with confidence.

 

[Froggy]

Thanks Paul and Custard.

 

[Mr T]

Hi

I would recommend planing diagonal to the grain with the longest plane you have then use the scraper. When planing a table top the plane must be extraordinarily sharp, I may resharpen a plane every 20 minutes or so when planing a table top.

Of course you could use a belt sander, but not as much fun! One further tip on belt sanders, never place a running sander on the surface, always put it on the surface then turn it on. This is because if you don't place the sander completely flat on the surface (eg if you come down nose first) you will get slight depressions that will only show up when you put the finish on.

Chris