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Angled legs are an interesting joinery problem. The traditional route would be mortices in the leg and tenons at the ends of the apron rails. While this is possible you'll see, if you draw the joint out full size, that you'll be struggling to get decent gluing surfaces.

Consequently most makers resolve the problem by using loose tenons and mortices cut at 90 degrees to the mating surfaces. The photograph I previously showed uses metal studding for the loose tenons, secured with epoxy. However, even though that's a very strong solution I wouldn't recommend it as you absolutely have to guard against squeeze out when using epoxy, which then means you're using metered doses of epoxy which complicates matters greatly.

I'll assume you don't have a Domino machine, in which case the easiest and quickest solution is using dowels. Personally I'd make a dedicated doweling jig for a job like this.

Step one is for you to decide on the design. Do you want your legs flush (left) or proud (right)?

Sabre-Leg-01.jpg


In both cases you would reference the dowelling jig from the front and from the top. If the legs are flush then off you go, but if they're proud then there's a little twist,

Sabre-Leg-02.jpg


You have to measure the dimension "Xmm" and make a shim of the same size, and use that in conjunction with your dowelling jig to offset the dowel holes in the aprons.

One final point, when making this style of dowel jig I generally design it so it can be screwed into the workpiece which prevents any slippage.

If all his sounds like too much faff then you can of course cut the mortices and tenons by hand, however I've done it both ways and I much prefer the dowel jig approach, talking to other professional cabinet makers dowels or dominos seems to be the general consensus.

Good luck!
 

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John15":1364dxi3 said:
The most difficult part has been getting the curves right on the legs but with trial and error and advice from members, particularly Richard on 'bandiness' and grain vulnability at the toe, I think I've got them about right although they still look a bit bandy from some aspects particularly from straight-on. John
Thanks for the mention John. It's nice to hear my comments or suggestions are sometimes helpful. The end result looks good as best I can see. The slight bandiness you mention isn't obvious from the images you've posted. Overall then, very well done, and no doubt the learning from this will be put to good use in future projects. Slainte.
 
The other way this can be done is to plane both the internal corners of the leg to 45deg, thus creating a 90deg mating surface. I did this a few years ago on this wall hung cabinet...

IMG_2815.jpg


...which seemed to work, but it might be trickier to make legs in this way - Rob
 

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woodbloke66":2ahm2f3j said:
The other way this can be done is to plane both the internal corners of the leg to 45deg, thus creating a 90deg mating surface. I did this a few years ago on this wall hung cabinet...



...which seemed to work, but it might be trickier to make legs in this way - Rob

Thanks for this Woodbloke. I'll give this some thought. Nice looking cabinet by the way.

John
 
John15":275rz39o said:
Nice looking cabinet by the way.

John

Thanks John; this was a cabinet in English Walnut to hold a couple of Venetian papier mache carnival masks, one part of which is the gold bit behind the glass - Rob
 
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