mahking51
Established Member
You just described my missus! 
Greenheart Timber info?
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mahking51
Established Member
OOPS!
sorry all, will adjust image size and resolution in future.
How do I delete this oversize reply post please?
sorry all, will adjust image size and resolution in future.
How do I delete this oversize reply post please?
A
Anonymous
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mahking51":1keqv6lj said:
I deleted for you
mahking51
Established Member
Tony, thanks for binning my last post, here's another go!
Got five of these lumps on the poor trailer at 2.5 tonnes a load!
regards
martin
Got five of these lumps on the poor trailer at 2.5 tonnes a load!
regards
martin
tim
Established Member
Is that really any way to describe your helpers even with their hard hats on? :lol:
T
DKMWT
Established Member
Is there any left cause I could do with some for my lathe bench. And if so is there anybody out there that can help me get them to Plymouth cause my trike ain't very good at moving big stuff.
martyn2
Established Member
martin you were asking about a bridge in another post if thats still on you got some good posts ( still would like to see the fishing rod )martyn
MixedHerbs
Established Member
If anyone out there wants some greenheart, the supplier I used has lots more. They are at Winkleigh Pine, Seckington Industrial Estate, Winkleigh in Devon. Phone number 01837 83832 and ask for Russell. (They are 43 miles from Plymouth.)
I would strongly suggest you get them to mill the stuff to exact dimensions because it's a pig to work with.
I know it seems obvious, but if thicknessing with a router, or just removing a lot of wood, go with the grain rather than across it. The dust is slightly reduced and the splitting effect of the bit seems to save bit-wear. These effects are amplified with greenheart.
The only tools I could use on the stuff were a half inch industrial router, a drill, a plane for smoothing (with a Samurai blade sharpened often), and a cabinet scraper to cope with the patches of wild grain. Also, the weight is phenomenal. I had to build jigs around the timber as it sat there sullenly on the floor.
Regards, Peter.
I would strongly suggest you get them to mill the stuff to exact dimensions because it's a pig to work with.
I know it seems obvious, but if thicknessing with a router, or just removing a lot of wood, go with the grain rather than across it. The dust is slightly reduced and the splitting effect of the bit seems to save bit-wear. These effects are amplified with greenheart.
The only tools I could use on the stuff were a half inch industrial router, a drill, a plane for smoothing (with a Samurai blade sharpened often), and a cabinet scraper to cope with the patches of wild grain. Also, the weight is phenomenal. I had to build jigs around the timber as it sat there sullenly on the floor.
Regards, Peter.
DKMWT
Established Member
Just been on to Russell sbout some greenheart. Trouble is it's going to cost a bit more then pennies. If I take a 20 foot length 12 x 12 he will let me have it for £220. Which due to me being out of work cause my job burned down in July last year is far beyond my budget. Does anyone know if there is anybody that has some for "pennies".
OPJ
Established Member
tim":17y95zmg said:
Good, I'm glad to see somebody has touched on this!
I've just had a look back through my notes from college (Toxic Woods) and Greenheart is probably THE MOST LETHAL TIMBER on this list!!
Reported adverse health affects include:
"splinters going sceptic; cardiac (your HEART) and intenstinal disorders; severe throat irritation".
I remember our tutor telling us how he was once working with a friend in a joiner's shop, who was happily turning away with some greenheart on the lathe. Turn around, he's lying on the floor and has gone into a cardiac arrest - all because of exposure to this particular dust! (He did survive.)
MDF may be bad enough... But greenheart couldreally kill you!
Common uses for the timber include:
Marine uses; Axe handles; factory flooring and sports goods.
PLEASE, take ALL the precautions you can!!!
I have had a lump of this stuff in my garden for about the last 6 years and decided to try something with it today, the piece was 7"X18"X24" a substantial lump, but only good for turning or small projects. I used an Axcaliber M2 HSS blade to cut it on the bandsaw and cut a 65mm section for a spindle blank, it turned nicely on the lathe but so far I only roughed it to a cylinder as the lathe is really on it's last legs and can't seem to run true regardless of what I adjust, once the new lathe arrives I will have a go at this, bearing in mind Olly's post too, I will be sure to wear an appropriate mask! Though this piece doesn't seem that dusty, compared to say, Iroko.
Be interesting to see how it compares to Teak for blunting tools, I found that to be the worst stuff ever.
Be interesting to see how it compares to Teak for blunting tools, I found that to be the worst stuff ever.
deserter
Established Member
As its used for marine uses could it not be kept damp whilst working it to minimise the dust and then clean out any raised grain at the end of the job?
As to what to use it for I reckon you have a new workshop and benches there just waiting to take shape.
Or you could dig a canal through your garden and build a lock, then with the off cuts turn a fishing rod and make a stool to sit on whilst fishing in your own lock.
~Nil carborundum illegitemi~
As to what to use it for I reckon you have a new workshop and benches there just waiting to take shape.
Or you could dig a canal through your garden and build a lock, then with the off cuts turn a fishing rod and make a stool to sit on whilst fishing in your own lock.
~Nil carborundum illegitemi~
woodbloke
Established Member
The original date on this thread was 2004. If my maths is correct, that must make it one of the oldest resurrected threads on record - Rob
Some odd properties in a lathe this stuff, I made a small straight sided box from a piece, the first thing I noted that was despite the rather dusty nature of the turnings, the heavy and dense nature of the wood persisted in the fine stuff and it settled really fast, pretty much just dropped to the bench, that same thing when sanding, virtually no aerosol type fine dust floating around.
It turns and sands to a very high finish really easily with a moderate to severe blunting effect (I had to resharpen an HSS gouge twice)
It degrades severely and rapidly, large cracks appearing in what was previously unmarked wood as it dried during the turning process, I rubbed some fine dust in and super-glued it in place, but not ideal really.
All in all a nice looking if rather plain grained wood, which is nice to work, but ultimately poor for the task, which probably explains why you don't see it advertised for turning blanks.
I will try making a Priest, perhaps that will degrade a little less.
I realise that this post would probably be more suited to the turning forum, but the thread is in here and as such it makes sense to post my results here I think. Move it though if you think it appropriate.
It turns and sands to a very high finish really easily with a moderate to severe blunting effect (I had to resharpen an HSS gouge twice)
It degrades severely and rapidly, large cracks appearing in what was previously unmarked wood as it dried during the turning process, I rubbed some fine dust in and super-glued it in place, but not ideal really.
All in all a nice looking if rather plain grained wood, which is nice to work, but ultimately poor for the task, which probably explains why you don't see it advertised for turning blanks.
I will try making a Priest, perhaps that will degrade a little less.
I realise that this post would probably be more suited to the turning forum, but the thread is in here and as such it makes sense to post my results here I think. Move it though if you think it appropriate.
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