gluing - cold weather

[transatlantic]

Can anyone recommend a strong glue that will set in this cold weather we're having? I'm working with mostly plywood and MDF but also pine.

This will mostly be for jigs so doesn't necessarily need to be long lasting. I tried super glue, but I find it just soaks right in and the joint is very weak, may try the gel type, but super glue is a rather expensive option really as I have a lot to do.

Just trying some of the EVO Impact stuff. Will see if it sets (says 5 deg min )

 

[marcros]

what temperature are you working in?

I would suggest the gorilla pu glue- it can be a bit messy, so wear gloves as it stains the skin, but it is strong and goes down to 5 degrees.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/In ... px?p=51213

http://www.wilko.com/adhesives/gorilla- ... vt/0421525

you need the pu (which is brown in the bottle)- i bought the wood glue by mistake from toolstation, because i didnt look properly and that is just pva. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesiv ... lue/p94548

Custard said in a post the other day that a blast of hot air can be enough for pva if the temperature is too low in the workshop. It was the first time that I had heard of that, so check the details, but he is the man that knows about these things.

I am also a fan of the titebond liquid hide glue. I stand my pot in a jug or mug of hot water before applying so that it becomes nice and runny http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id ... 7daa20f8ed. It says min 10 degrees, but the warming of the glue is enough for that.

I generally use pu for utility stuff and liquid hide for finer stuff, unless there is a reason to use pva or something else. If I buy pva, i go for a bottle that I can use up between spring and autumn, and try to avoid using it in the workshop during the winter months.

 

[transatlantic]

what temperature are you working in?.

Anything around zero probably. It's been around 2-3 degrees most nights here.

 

[custard]

Custard said in a post the other day that a blast of hot air can be enough for pva if the temperature is too low in the workshop.

You have to heat up the components before assembly (using a hot air gun or similar) rather than assembling the piece and then wafting them with a hot air gun. If you can get warmth into the joint before the glue up the natural insulating properties of timber will ensure it stays warm long enough for PVA to cure.

 

[marcros]

how long do you need to keep the joint warm for, custard? Would heating the components up and gluing last thing at night be enough, ie the temp is going to drop down to the 2-3 degrees over the next x hours. Or, is this technique more suited to when the temp is not quite enough, but will only drop to around 10 degrees in the workshop?

 

[custard]

You don't need to keep it warm after assembly. Once the mating surfaces are heated up they'll stay warm enough for long enough that PVA will set okay. I've worked this way outside on my boat when the temperature was close to freezing and the results were still good. Wood is such a good insulater that once the mating faces of a joint are heated up they'll stay warm after the joint is closed up for an hour or more.

 

[jpa]

Casco Winter.

It's an indoor pva that can be used down to -10C
See here, fourth from the top:

http://www.casco.eu/global/casco/?pc=99

 

[Mike Jordan]

Cascamite powdered resin, the cold slows down the setting but it gets there overnight. I've never used it at minus 10 though!

 

[transatlantic]

Can't seem to locate that Casco Winter stuff in the UK

Cascamite powdered resin, the cold slows down the setting but it gets there overnight. I've never used it at minus 10 though!

The datasheet I read says :

NOTE: - At temperatures below 1 10C (5OF), a period of
up to 2 or 3 days may be required before the glue
sets. During cold weather, it is therefore essential that joints under pressure be kept in a warm place

http://www.polyvine.com/index.php?optio ... #datasheet