Glues & Finishes

[Nads]

I am new to this forum and new to woodwork as a whole, I’ve been reading stuff from the forum for a while now, and got loads of helpful information so far, thanks guys!

I was wondering if anyone could please give me some advice on glues and finishes? I am currently making a small box out of ash, I have nearly finished the box now and would like some advise on what I should use to glue it together with and the best way to finish it of! :?

I have used dovetail joints on the corners of the box, which are pretty tight and I am pleased with how they came out, especially for my first go at dovetails, but how want to glue them together (along with the top and base), with something that will keep a strong joint, but nothing that will expand to much and wrap the joint and box?! I think I also want a glue that dries pretty clear? I was looking at the Titebond glue range, but with no experience with glues wasn’t sure of the best one to use for this situation? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

I would also be great for some advice on finishes, I was either looking at wax (maybe Organoil Wood Wax) or maybe Danish Oil?

Many Thanks

Andrew

 

[Adam]

Welcome to the forum! Can't really comment on glues or finishes, I have only 1 for each. PVA for gluing anything, and Danish oil for finishing everything.

Certainly ash comes up very nice with danish oil.

Adam

 

[Philly]

Hi Nads
Welcome to the forum!
Regular Titebond original is a great glue-cheap and easy to use.
An oil finish is a simple and beautiful way to finish a project. Any danish oil will give you what you are looking for.
Post some pictures when you are done,
Cheers
Philly

 

[dedee]

Andrew,
welcome to the forum. It's customary to post pics of one's first ever dovetails were they cut by hand?

I personally use white PVA glue for just about everything. And my finish of preference of late is a Liberon's finishing oil, easy and forgiving to apply and gives a reasonable hard wearing and protective finish.

There will be many opinions on which finish is best dependant on what affect you wish to achieve. Can I suggest you try some on a piece of scrap and see which you like best.

Andy

 

[Nads]

Thanks for your advice, sounds like Titebond original is a safe bet for gule!

In terms of Danish Oil, Any good brands, I was looking at these two products from Axminster Website - Chestnut Finishing Oil or Rustin's Danish Oil, any comments on either products, does anyone else have any better suggestions.

Do I need to wax finish the box after I’ve used Danish Oil? :?

I’ll try and get some Pictures of the joints on the net soon, plus put up some pics when the box is finished!

Thanks again, any advice is welcome, I've got lots to learn! :lol:

 

[Adam]

I use Rustins danish oil, but no specific reason though. I do finish my pieces with paste wax after, applied with some lightly abrasive pads - from Chestnut - it really does just give it an extra smoothness - well worthwhile the effort. It really doesn't take long. I use "NyweB" pads from Chestnut - cut into smaller pieces. http://www.chestnutproducts.co.uk/resul ... pplication

One note on Danish oil, on at least one manufacturers can - it says to leave on overnight. I reckon this is complete rot, I wipe it on, and then rewipe the surface with a drier rag within 2-3 minutes, to stop a build up on the surface. It stays really smooth, doesn't suffer from dust so much, and looks nice. You can build up many coats in the time it takes to leave it "overnight" if required.

Adam

 

[Nads]

Adam,
Does Rustin’s Danish Oil colour much, coz I really like the colour of ash and want to leave it looking natural. :?

Is paste wax the same as wood Wax (Chestnut Woodwax 22) ? What are abrasive pads, where can I get them from?

So much to think about? Only whatever products I buy I want to be able to use them on my next few products?! I'm thinking of a coffee Table next!

And dedee to answer your question easy the dovetails were cut by hand! :lol:

 

[Adam]

Adam,
Does Rustin’s Danish Oil colour much, coz I really like the colour of ash and want to leave it looking natural. :?

Is paste wax the same as wood Wax (Chestnut Woodwax 22) ? What are abrasive pads, where can I get them from?

So much to think about? Only whatever products I buy I want to be able to use them on my next few products?! I'm thinking of a coffee Table next!

And dedee to answer your question easy the dovetails were cut by hand! :lol:

It does colour a bit I guess - buts its what I call a "natural" finish - so its very light. Hmm, coffee tables - hot drinks and marks from cups. Not sure oil and wax are the right finish for coffee tables.

The link above has NyWeb pads about half way down - better link here perhaps:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... 09&recno=3

Adam

 

[como]

Hi Andrew

I have to agree with Adam and Phillys comments on using danish oil on ash, I've just finished making a pelmet out of ash veneered ply and the finish came out great.

Mark

 

[Nads]

Adam,

Good point about the coffee table, new finishes for that I suppose!
More money, oh well, guess I'll be stocking up!

Is paste wax the same as wood wax, which grade of webrax do you use for applying it?

Also is it best to use a clear or coloured wax?

Sorry for all the questions!

Cheers Mate

 

[Philly]

Nads
Yes, paste wax is the same stuff. I'd go with clear. I use steel wool to apply mine (it also smoothes the surface as well as polishing)
Another finish to consider for your box is shellac-it is as simple to apply as oil and dries REALLY quickly. No smell either (once dry). Just wipe it on with a bit of rag.
Here's a link to a box I made recently-finished with blonde shellac.
http://www.philsville.co.uk/offcutbox2.htm
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[Adam]

Adam,

Good point about the coffee table, new finishes for that I suppose!
More money, oh well, guess I'll be stocking up!

Is paste wax the same as wood wax, which grade of webrax do you use for applying it?

Also is it best to use a clear or coloured wax?

Sorry for all the questions!

Cheers Mate

I use Black Byson "clear" wax I think - at least thats the tin on the go at the moment. Either clear or natural - can't remember. Probably clear at a guess.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=8

This Chessnut stuff would be fine I'm sure,

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=8

Its got a solvent, so keep the lid tightly on when not in use.

Adam

 

[Nads]

Thanks Everyone, I'll let you know how I get on soon!

Nice Box Philly, wish mine was half as nice, what wood is it?

Just One last question promise -

What's the difference between Danish oil and either 'chestnut finishing oil'
or 'Liberon Finishing Oil'?

Nads

 

[Philly]

Nads
All of the "danish" or "finishing" oils are a blend of oil and varnish or resins, to give a harder, quicker finish. Differences between the brands comes down to which one you like the best! :wink:
Personally the Chestnut oil is my fave- builds up quickly and sets off hard.
There's not much between the differnt brands, though.
Try one and see how you get on with it.
(The box was made from spalted sycamore)
Cheers
Philly

 

[Nads]

Cheers Philly,
I'll give the Chestnut stuff a go!

I have so much to learn!

 

[Adam]

Cheers Philly,
I'll give the Chestnut stuff a go! I have so much to learn!

Normally, you'd get direct advice from Terry of Chesnut products, but unfortunately I'd imagine he's busy setting up the stand etc for the Axminster show which starts tomorrow.

You can pop in to say hello to him if you are going to the show. His stand is the traditional meeting point for all forum members.

 

[Philly]

Be careful, though! You never know what strange characters are lurking nearby :lol:

Cheers
Philly

 

[JFC]

Best glues i find , maybe not for this project but in general are ;
cascamite , now called extramite 1 shot . I use this for doors and windows .
Pva , i use this for wardrobe doors and interior work fixing biscuits etc
Then you have the new glues that are out like gorilla glue and 5 minute glue . i try to steer clear of these but i do buy a pot every time there is a new one just to test it .
Oh and then there is mitre mate , now called something else . i find this 2 part glue great as you can glue a joint ( non structual) with pva add a bit of the mitre mate to hold it and leave it , like an invisible clamp

 

[Terry Smart]

Hi All

Phew, yes, recovered from the show, just about. We did have internet access at the hall but time was limited to allow me to answer... looks like I didn't need to anyway!

Couple of points that might help...

Danish and Finishing Oils are pretty much interchangeable terms; we didn't call ours Danish Oil because we prefer a more descriptive term when possible and because Ronnie Rustin (and it was a pleasure to see him again this weekend) was really good to us when we started so I didn't want to add insult to injury by using the same name as him.
These oils are pretty much of a muchness in many ways; one of the most noticeable differences is the colour and build. We've been told that ours is one of the palest available and we reckon it is one of the highest builds too.

Finishing Oil should be okay for use on a table (we've got it on our dining room table, Mandy thought we should finish it ourselves... busman's holiday!) and it stands up to most things that are thrown at it. You could use wax on top of it but it would need regular maintenance. We didn't bother.
An alternative would be Melamine Lacquer but this is a bit trickier to apply on large areas; results can be very good, but a little practice is recommended.

Coloured waxes are great for toning new work, but clear is far more universal and is far and away our best seller as you might expect. Paste waxes (of which WoodWax 22 is one) vary slightly in their composition; most use beeswax and carnuaba wax, some also use cheaper padders to top up the solids content.
One major variation is the solvent used; we use a user friendly yet quick drying solvent (so do keep the lid on!) which means you can get on with the job quite quickly. There are other quick drying waxes available, the best known probably being Briwax. Slower drying waxes will do a good job as well if you're patient.

I hope this helps, let me know if any further info is required.

 

[Nads]

Cheers Terry,

I went and brought Chestnut finishing Oil and Chestnut Woodwax 22 in the end anyway, thanks to everyone’s advice. I haven’t used either of them yet, but I’m going to test them out on a scrap piece of ash sometime this week, I reckon. I’ll let you know what I think once I’ve used them!