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tim
Established Member
Just one thing - Titebond III isn't poly - they do a separate poly. I also use their darkwood glue which is a stained PVA which leaves a less visible glue line in guess what - dark woods.
I tend to not use the cheaper stuff simply because when I glue something I want it to stay glued and the extra money seems well spent to me (even if its just brand name piece of mind).
Steve - I have used superglue for quick bonding too - moulding etc but have found that sometimes this bond weakens over a period of years - so now I use both PVA and CA at once - The CA gives the instant grab and holds fine but the PVA cures to act as belt and braces so to speak.
Cheers
Tim
I tend to not use the cheaper stuff simply because when I glue something I want it to stay glued and the extra money seems well spent to me (even if its just brand name piece of mind).
Steve - I have used superglue for quick bonding too - moulding etc but have found that sometimes this bond weakens over a period of years - so now I use both PVA and CA at once - The CA gives the instant grab and holds fine but the PVA cures to act as belt and braces so to speak.
Cheers
Tim
A
Anonymous
Guest
tim":r5g3wqnj said:
Yep, wasn't sure about that myself, which is why I put the (I think?) in!
Regarding the yellow carpenter's glue versus PVA - in fact, they're both aliphatic resin, yellow glue (the so-called aliphatic resin) is PVA glue, just as PVA glue is aliphatic resin! It is simply a higher grade of PVA than most domestic brands - more akin to industrial-grade PVA - with a little yellow dye added. The stuff which makes PVA durable (what the Americans class as Type II PVAs) is an acid salt catalyst, which causes the glue to cross-link and form a much more weatherproof bond as it cures - probably what Titebond II is. If you want the best (exterior) performance then you'd be better looking at industrial 2-pack PVAs or at least D4 (see below), although as the quality goes up, so does the price....
For information, Type I and II are American gradings - in Europe we use D2, D3 and D4 of which D2 is the standard grade, D3 is semi-waterproof (suitable for kitchens, bathrooms and sheltered exterior use) and D4 is the full-blown waterproof product.
[the above courtesy of an old post by scrit on one of the msn groups]
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Anonymous
Guest
While we're at it, a correction on the extramite 'kick it round the workshop' thing;
Humbrol (who make extramite) also make a premixed glue call extrarez - it's a pva, i think, but with a bond time of 10 mins, handle time of 20 mins, full cure in 2 hours. It's one of the water resistant ones.
I've seen reference to extramite (the powder) having a shelf life of only 6 months, although Steve's experience seems to contradict that.
Humbrol (who make extramite) also make a premixed glue call extrarez - it's a pva, i think, but with a bond time of 10 mins, handle time of 20 mins, full cure in 2 hours. It's one of the water resistant ones.
I've seen reference to extramite (the powder) having a shelf life of only 6 months, although Steve's experience seems to contradict that.
Espedair Street":2s81m37v said:
I suspect it's time I threw out my tub of Cascamite (the name of it before it was called Extramite) given the tin looks like it was out of the 70's.
I wondered about the quality of the glue joint last time as well!
Adam
GCR
Established Member
Extramite seems to have a shelf life determined by outside temperature and how often the container is opened. The six months mentioned is a safe bet. The problem then arises, how old is the stock in the shop? I have never seen a "best before" on glue!! I avoid purchasing from small retial outlets. As soon as the glue gives problems when mixing - lumpy mixture - the glue is probably out of date and will not give optimum performance. Having said that the glue has many good points: quite waterproof, does not "creep" - vital when laminating because the shape will stay put and is very strong. But watch out for sharp edges when the glue is dry, I have the scars and still haven't learnt! It also needs a prolonged clamping time, I usually leave it overnight.
Bob
Bob
johnelliott
Established Member
The strongest glue I've ever used was Aerolite 306, which I believe was developed for sticking wooden aeroplanes (such as the Mosquito) together. I used to use it for sticking rosewood and ebony fingerboards to maple guitar necks. The powder is mixed with water and applied to one surface, and the acid hardener applied to the other.
I don't make guitars anymore so I use white PVA for frame and panel doors and Titebond polyurethane for cabinets when the joints are under some shear stress
John
I don't make guitars anymore so I use white PVA for frame and panel doors and Titebond polyurethane for cabinets when the joints are under some shear stress
John
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Anonymous
Guest
I did nor realise how much there is to know about glues . I have read all the replies with interest
thanks guys very helpful indeed
thanks guys very helpful indeed
