Glue with long open time.

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ColeyS1":ztztxeu7 said:
Rorschach":ztztxeu7 said:
Ok, so since I have never used cascamite before, how much should I order? It's easy for PVA to get an idea of what you need but since this is a glue I have to mix up, how far does a pot go?

I see the prices on ebay vary widely and it is much cheaper to buy in bulk. 125g was as little as £4 and as much as £10, order in bulk though and the price drops to less than £5 a kilo.
Biggest frustration I use to have with cascamite was mixing up enough glue. I always go way overboard now and end up mixing wayyyyy too much and throwing a lot out. Even though it has a long open time, having to mix more half way through gluing something up, really use to pile on the pressure.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hmm that's something that I didn't really think of. With epoxy I tend to be pretty good at mixing up the correct amount, but then I am doing small jobs so it's easier to approximate.
 
Rorschach":2xji1lx3 said:
So any recommendations for something that has a longer open time?
Epoxy resin with a slow catalyst can gives you up to forty five minutes to an hour assembly time all depending on the manufacturer's specs and temperature at glue-up time. Here's a link to one brand: https://www.permabond.co.uk/2-part-epoxies-c1bum

Liquid hide glue typically provides up to twenty minutes to get everything clamped up.

In the years I've been using either PVA or aliphatic resins I've never come across one that offers more than ten minutes of assembly time, and that even includes the so-called extend type versions that started appearing about twenty years ago. Many of the more recent formulations seem to provide as little (realistically) as five minutes for assembly and cramping up. You can sneak a few extra minutes through adding some water to PVA/aliphatic emulsions, but too much water tends to weaken the bond - about 5 - 8% or so of additional water is about all I ever really want to add if I think it's needed. Adding a bit of water can be useful for veneering jobs, and I've never really needed to use this trick for typical glue-ups, e.g., frame and panel work, solid wood panel edge joinery, table and chair frames, etc. Slainte.
 
MikeG.":15wugo37 said:
Bodgers":15wugo37 said:
I bought a couple of bottles of Titebond extend for my workbench build.......

What colour does it dry?

It dries a pale, translucent beige. The name "Extend" is a bit misleading, I find it gives no more than a minute or two additional life. Of course, sometimes a minute is the difference between success and failure so I still use it, but it's certainly not a guarantee of relaxed glue ups.

Incidentally, one other feature of Titebond Extend, it's significantly more heat resistant than their other glues, so it's a better choice for things like radiator covers but on the flip side it would be harder to reverse with steam or a hot iron.
 
MikeG.":25djy4sx said:
So what do you use, Custard, for routine furniture making (not for veneering and other specialist applications)?

Titebond Extend, a UF glue (normally a liquid UF such as Bordens, but Cascamite if not), and an animal glue (sometimes traditional Scotch glue pearls in a double boiler for larger quantities, but a liquid hide glue is just as good and convenient for smaller quantities).

Those three cover 90% of applications.
 
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