Glue for plane restoration

[LocalOak]

Hi

I've got an old wooden 22" jointer to restore and the tote has come free. The body and iron are fine, it just needs a bit of cleaning up, flattening and honing.

The tote is a good fit in the body and I was just wondering what glue would be best to stick it back down. I was thinking of cleaning off the old glue, putting a couple of short dowels into the body, matching them to the tote and glueing up.

My question is what type of glue to use? Is pva OK or do I need something extra strong? And are dowels a good idea or should I just rely on the fit between tote and body?

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Toby

 

[woodbloke]

Hi

I've got an old wooden 22" jointer to restore and the tote has come free. The body and iron are fine, it just needs a bit of cleaning up, flattening and honing.

The tote is a good fit in the body and I was just wondering what glue would be best to stick it back down. I was thinking of cleaning off the old glue, putting a couple of short dowels into the body, matching them to the tote and glueing up.

My question is what type of glue to use? Is pva OK or do I need something extra strong? And are dowels a good idea or should I just rely on the fit between tote and body?



Any thoughts gratefully received.

Toby

Toby - if the tote has come free I suggest you sand it lightly to remove any dirt present on the suface and to remove any of the old glue. If the fit is a bit sloppy then a couple of dowels would beef it up a bit. As to the glue PVA ought to be fine and again if the tote is a bit loose then a gap filling adhesive like epoxy would do the job - Rob

 

[LocalOak]

Thanks Rob

off to bed now (yes I know, I really live on the wild side) but I'll sort it over the weekend.

Toby

 

[bugbear]

Toby - if the tote has come free I suggest you sand it lightly to remove any dirt present on the suface and to remove any of the old glue. If the fit is a bit sloppy then a couple of dowels would beef it up a bit. As to the glue PVA ought to be fine and again if the tote is a bit loose then a gap filling adhesive like epoxy would do the job - Rob

The original glue would have been scotch (or similar). Using this is the only correct conservation approach.

As a "user grade" repair, any modern glue should be fine; if the fit is loose, a piece of veneer should serve.

BugBear

 

[LocalOak]

Well I've put it together now with a couple of dowels and some epoxy. I'm sure purists will be horrified but it was a very cheap acquisition and I want it as a working jointer rather than a collectors item.

The sole was a bit up and down but I've jointed that too and its flat, or at least flat enough in my judgement. I'm going to have to reduce the mouth a bit which is my first attempt at this type of repair.

But its the iron I'm most pleased with, tapering to about 3/16th at the business end and plenty of metal left, have already got it to a very nice edge.

Thanks for the advice, now its time to actually use it.

toby

 

[bugbear]

I'm going to have to reduce the mouth a bit which is my first attempt at this type of repair.

If you're using it on surfaces to be glued, I wouldn't worry; what's a bit of tearout in a glue surface between friends?

BugBear

 

[LocalOak]

Good point but I am also hoping to use it for flattening some finished surfaces, maybe naively, but if I aim for that then I can come back to using it as a glued edge jointer when I miss

 

[bugbear]

Good point but I am also hoping to use it for flattening some finished surfaces, maybe naively, but if I aim for that then I can come back to using it as a glued edge jointer when I miss

I thought jointers are/were only used for jointing(*1). For large surfaces e.g. tables, I thought the sequence was pretty much jack(*2), panel, smoother.

BugBear

(*1) doh!
(*2) whatever that means, see previous threads ad infinitum.

 

[LocalOak]

Bugbear

(*1) You're more likely to be right than I am :!: I may be using the wrong terminology, I should perhaps say jointer/fore plane. But basically it is 22" and I'm hoping to use it for flattening as well as jointing, to me its just a plane with a long sole that will be another tool for attempting to get at any bumps my jack rides over. I'm on a steep learning curve.

(*2) Help, I didn't even think about panel planes - that learning curve thing again :?

Toby

 

[bugbear]

Bugbear

(*2) Help, I didn't even think about panel planes - that learning curve thing again :?

Toby

It's "jacks" that vary. A lot.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... sc&start=0

BugBear

 

[Digit]

I'm going to have to reduce the mouth a bit which is my first attempt at this type of repair.

If it's any help this is what I do.
Cut a recess in the sole ahead of the iron and make an insert that will slide back and forth, opening or closing the mouth to as required.
Cut/drill a slot in the insert and hold in place with CS screw.
Better still, drill through the body of the plane and use a suitable bolt/M/C screw and a nut for easy adjustment.

 

[LocalOak]

Digit

that's a great idea, thanks. Now I know what I am going to do this weekend

Thanks

toby

 

[woodbloke]

Digit

that's a great idea, thanks. Now I know what I am going to do this weekend

Thanks

toby

Have a look on this forum tomorrow night :wink: - Rob

 

[LocalOak]

d*m&, you've seen through me...