Gauges

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I finally got a few gauges done.

That's really sloppy work, Frank. :lol:

I am intrigued by the locking mechanism. Won't you please (I did say please so now you have to) provide more detail, and kindly remember that I am slow and need visual help.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Wiley Horne]

Hi Frank,
Beautiful work, and I am particularly taken by the vertical wedge. One question: Is there some reason you shouldn't just grind a second bevel on your blades, and make them ambidextrous?

Wiley

 

[Wiley Horne]

Frank,
One other thought. And this is from years of using Japanese gauges with a single-beveled cutter like yours. You might try reversing the blade so that the bevel is oriented toward the fence. What this does is pull the fence and work toward each other, whereas the outward facing bevel may tend to push the fence and the work apart. Bevel orientation may not make a difference in your application, but I would suggest trying it.
Indeed, on a Japanese mortise gauge, where you have two blades with the bevels facing each other, the outside cutter will be a little longer than the inner one, so that it will cut more deeply and tend to dominate the inner cutter, the net effect being to snug the fence up against the work.

Wiley

 

[Frank D.]

Hi everyone,
Bugbear, I just read your post again, I guess you had already said what I figured out as good while later. I thought it was me at first...
Derek, I'll throw in a pic of the wedges, then my real source:

My source, Jeff Gorman:
http://www.amgron.clara.net/markingout/ ... ourown.htm

If you look at Jeff's page you'll understand right away. I like this mechanism, simple and effective.. I talked with André Milette, the guy who sculpted the brace on the cover of the LV catalogue, he makes round wedges on some of his planes, and he said round wedges hold stronger than any other, it's surprising how they tight they do hold (I used 1/2" dowel).
Wiley, thanks, I have extra blades with the bevel on the other side. I followed Charlesworth's advice, since I'll be using my gauge mostly for outside measurement (dimensioning stock) I chose to have a bevel on the waste side. I tried to cut the mortise for the blade at a slight angle, so it pulls outward. I might have to adjust it a little, I haven't used it enough yet, although it did seem OK on my trial cuts. I have a Japanese gauge that I actually copied for the general shape of the fence, I like it so much, and it has the bevel on the inside for dovetails (bevel/waste side in). I was unsatisfied with my japanese gauge for outside measurements because it leaves a slight bevel on the corner of the work side, so it's harder to tell where to stop planing. A square side also helps to guide a saw (and keep it on the bevel side).