Garage workshop door

[Karl]

I've decided to block up the garage door of my 'shop.

It is a single garage door. I have access to the garage from inside the house. Although it is useful having the ability to lift the garage door to get materials and machinery ( ) in there, it has some serious downsides. Cold and noise pollution are the two major ones.

So, I want to leave the door in-situ (for external appearances), but will screw it to the wooden frame, meaning that the horizontal arms onto which it lifts can be removed. I then intend to insulate with some kingspan and fix some ply or MDF across the width of the garage.

Hopefully this also means that if machinery has to come out (or in!), then it should only be a 10 minute job to remove the internal "wall" and unscrew the garage door for open access.

Any comments/suggestions before I take the plunge?

Cheers

Karl

 

[OPJ]

Sounds like a plan, if you really think you can manage when you need to drag materials in or out. :wink:

If it's anything like the door on my garage then, it's probably a main source of "ventilation" in your workshop... If there aren't already vents (or other sources of draughts! ) then, you should seriously consider fitting some vents. Otherwise, you may have the same troubles with rust and condensation that I've been experiencing. :?

I didn't close mine off; purely because it's the only point of access. But I totally understand why you want to build a wall infront and it's got to have a better effect than insulating the door itself.

Have you got enough room to make it a kind of bi-folding construction? That would make access even easier.

 

[Waka]

Karl

Looks identical to my workshop door (up and over), originally I thought of doing just as you intimate, but after a lot of thought decided that it wasn't the right road to go down.

My reasoning was that in the summer it would be nice to get both doors open and get some air flow, also the in and out of material and projects. I think you'll be surprised how much you'll miss this door if you block it up.

What I did with mine was put a layer of 2" extra therm insulation over the door on the inside and tape it all in place, this doesn't weigh a lot so doesn't really impede the use of the door.

To fill in the gaps around the end I used the sort of door seal stuff that has the brush bits on it, secured all round it really made a difference, and it still leaves access for the door.

Hope this helps

 

[wizer]

My plans were to fit a new wall in front of the existing roller with a single opening door. But as our destiny is up in the air at the moment I haven't done it. I can see where you're coming from, it just depends how often you will bbe needing to use that door. What about in the summer? Do you ever have the door open while working?

 

[Karl]

Cheers for the thoughts guys.

I don't really work with the door open. Although I have always used the door for getting my tools out to the car (for site work) I can always ship them through the house. It's not a big deal.

My thought was that if the internal wall is screwed in place, and I can remove it in, say, 5 minutes, then it is worth doing. I will keep the up n over arms in case I decide to re-install the original door.

Sound pollution is my prime concern at the moment. I've upgraded the bigger machines to induction motors, and if I can do anything more to bring the outside noise levels down then all the better.

Cheers

Karl

 

[jedmc571]

Karl,

I agree with Waka, I think you'll miss it when you can't use it, and with summer looming, you can't beat spilling out onto the drive, and taking up more space :lol:

I did mine over the winter, not quite as extravagant, I used the foam laminate underlay doubled over on itself to bridge the gaps between the door and frame, and used duct tape on the outside to seal it, it worked perfect, and doesn't look as hideous as it sounds ( well vaguely hideous :lol: ) I had already insulated the back with 30mm Kingspan last year.

Within a week of doing it I sold my old tablesaw, I had to carry it through the kitchen and hallway because it was to much effort to undo the garage seal, I then had to do the same with 10 sheets of 1200 x 100 chipboard, it's a real ball ache, I like the fact that it's draughtproof, but it ends there.

This summer I'm making new side hinged doors, up and over are great for a garage, but crap for what we use them for.

Ponder it.........it doesn't matter what we think, it's your workshop :wink:

Cheers

Jed

 

[Qwibble]

I'm about to move house, and will be proud owner of a single garage with up and over door. Like Karl I'm concerned about cold and noise pollution. Additionally when door is open I risk banging my head (yes I always ate my greens).

So:

This summer I'm making new side hinged doors

Watching this thread with interest..

 

[Vinny]

I'm doing the side hinged thing as well Jed. I've an up and over at the mo which needs a service (doesn't go all the way up and over, the bottom lip attracts my swede like a magnet - greens as a young'un have a lot to answer for)
I plan to take it a bit fiurther than a wood for metal replacement though. the plan is to extend out onto the drive by about 18" and put a tiled roof over the extension (present roof is a flatty). the door and wall will both have windows. I've asked my neighbour who works in the councils building control dept and she says no need for any permissions.

The new wall will incorporate a double door at the RHS big enough to get an 8x4 sheet though. Externally the plan is to use painted shiplap, internally a vapour barrier then 50mm celotex or kingspan then 9mm OSB.

I'll see if I can get a sketchup done later to explain it better.

Vinny

 

[Vinny]

Apologies for the sketchups - still learning.

Inside

Outside

Sketchup rendition(ish) of outside.

Final result will be something like this - hopefully :roll:

 

[eoinsgaff]

Would it be possible/practical to replace the door with a window that might be made more 'openable' to allow stuff in and out as well as light.

Of course you may not want people to see all the valuable tools inside in case interest exceeds repect for the law...

Just a thought.

 

[Karl]

Yes, I can see the disadvantages of blocking up the door. But if it can be boarded up in such a way that it is easily removed (within, say, 2 minutes), then I think it'll be a big benefit having it blocked up.

Decision taken anyway - i've removed the arms and screwed the door in place. Need to pick up some Kingspan and a couple of sheets of MDF.

Jed - i'm going to make a set of side hinged doors in the summer.

Cheers

Karl

 

[jedmc571]

Well I think we'll have a "Side Hinge Summer Ball"

I suspect It will be a big thread, everyone has the same issues with Up n Over's

Vinny, is that new idea double side hinged, with a single on one side?

I'm considering this, I ride to work, and have to traipse the bike through the house, I fancy one side having a single door built in for this purpose.

Cheers

Jed

 

[dchallender]

Karl

I'm just planning to do the same thing as the wind and weather whistles through mine and I've just installed my miller and metal lathe and don't want them going rusty.

My solution is to install a frame around the door that will still allow me to open the door. On the inside of the frame I will install a series of panels which will be effectively constructed as a series of insulated boxes which can be removed if required. They will be held in place by quick lock catches, so that they can be clipped off and the panel sections removed easily.

The only downside is that I will have to anchor a piece of wood to the floor as well as part of the frame, which means if I need to remove anything I will have to go over it. Thats fine, the only time I envisage taking the part off the floor is when I move at some point in the distant future !!

I reckon I can do this for about £80 given that it will be made from standard constructional timber a bit of MDF, plastic sheet / damp proof and insulation. If I used plaster board I think I could do it even cheaper. The most expensive bit will be the locking catches. :shock:

rgds

darren

 

[Vinny]

Jed
Its just a wall on LHS with the RHS being split into 2 doors. I would have liked to go for the big single on one side and the split double on t'other but from my early experiments (piece of CLS with a concrete block on one end while the other end was swung in the arc of proposed big single door) the slope of the drive would have fouled the big door before it fully opened.
One change I may make is to make the small singles into stable doors. that way I can keep the dog in whilst still having the fumes from the local bus service wafting there way in.

 

[OldWood]

Hi guys, particularly those with up and over doors.

WARNING if these are your only route of access - my father died when something went on fire in his workshop and he couldn't get the door up to get out ! He had no other exit!

I know it's potentially a waste of wall space but I built my new 5 x3m workshop with two doors - one specifically opening outwards.

Rob

 

[jhwbigley]

Outside

I like your vans hand brake :lol:

If you ready for a laugh, i'll be back on my workshop doors next week

JHB

 

[Vinny]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

The handbrake seizes when its icy.