Garage wall material, not bothered about insulation!

[HeliGav]

I am currently working in a double garage, single skinned brick and flat roof, I am not bothered about insulating for warmth, as im just happy thrown on the space heater and extra jumper, as i don't think the cost and time justifies the amount I use it as its used for generally storage aswell!

I basically want it to be damp free and pretty!

After going to wickes I have seen both plywood and osb boards and was planning to line the walls by screwing them on
My question was which do you think would be best? I was not going to apply batons just screw them to the wall, do i need a vapour barrier? And has anyone done this before or have experience of it.

Thanks

 

[MMUK]

You will need a vapour barrier. On mine I used building membrane then used a 2x2 stud frame which is only fixed into the roof timbers (so there's no penetration of the DPC) and it's all wedged and bolted together. As a sheet material I used 3/8" ply.

You could easily use OSB but I prefer the look of ply myself. OBS2 however is half the price of ply

 

[Grahamshed]

The brick walls of the garage are going to have to have been built extremely well to join up boards without any form of studding. Vapour barrier also sounds essential or you are not actually going to have gained much are you ?

 

[markblue777]

Hi HeliGav,
Just an idea to keep the costs down and that is look for a local building surplus yard and you could save a few quid on the boards. There is one near me (a tad to far for you though ) that I can get 18mm ply from for about £10, sometimes it is brand new others it was used as shuttering and has had a lick of paint. but worth the saving and does the job well (mine also does chipboard and bricks too).
Cheers
Mark

 

[rafezetter]

Hi HeliGav,
Just an idea to keep the costs down and that is look for a local building surplus yard and you could save a few quid on the boards. There is one near me (a tad to far for you though ) that I can get 18mm ply from for about £10, sometimes it is brand new others it was used as shuttering and has had a lick of paint. but worth the saving and does the job well (mine also does chipboard and bricks too).
Cheers
Mark

+1 you beat me to it - we have one of those in Bristol and they also knock out old sheet goods for about £10 as well as lengths of timber you could use for studding.

Sometimes even some pretty good wood salvage finds, cheaper than a reclaimer yard would charge.

Well worth finding one local (or even not so local).

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

also to keep cost down and light in...you could use OSB because of its price advantage and then just give it a couple coats of white emulsion to help reflect light around the workshop.

 

[HeliGav]

Can anyone recommend where to get moisture barrier from, also how would u attatch it to the wall with the boards. Anyone know a place local to stoke on trent that does surplus etc?

 

[MMUK]

I'd just pick up a roll of PDC from Jewsons or TP. About £30 for a 50m x 4m roll. I'd offer it up into place and use blobs of silicone to adhere it to the brickwork with a few staples to pin the tops to the roof joists. You may need to lay some sheets against it until the silicone cures.

 

[HeliGav]

is there any particular fastener or screw that I would need to apply the board to the wall because it would odiously be going through the membrane into the wall and breaching it. The walls are dry but could this cause damp patches and mould on the boards over time? would they need to be treated or is there any particular type I could buy?

 

[red dave]

I am currently working in a double garage, single skinned brick and flat roof, I am not bothered about insulating for warmth, as im just happy thrown on the space heater and extra jumper, as i don't think the cost and time justifies the amount I use it as its used for generally storage aswell!

I basically want it to be damp free and pretty!

After going to wickes I have seen both plywood and osb boards and was planning to line the walls by screwing them on
My question was which do you think would be best? I was not going to apply batons just screw them to the wall, do i need a vapour barrier? And has anyone done this before or have experience of it.

Thanks

Have a look at the plywood from collis at chasetown it is cheaper

 

[MMUK]

is there any particular fastener or screw that I would need to apply the board to the wall because it would odiously be going through the membrane into the wall and breaching it. The walls are dry but could this cause damp patches and mould on the boards over time? would they need to be treated or is there any particular type I could buy?

Personally I'd build a stud frame wedged into place and pinned to the roof joists. If you absolutely have to you could pop a couple of fixings through into the base (leave the frames half inch short in height so they don't sit on the deck). Then just fix your boarding to that - no pierced membrane.

For your stud, I'd recommend 2x2 but you could just use tile lathe if you want.

 

[wallace]

You mentioned a space heater, is it one of those ones that run of bottled gas. If so they produce a huge amount of water in the workshop.

 

[HeliGav]

Its just a 3kw electric heater,

 

[Lons]

Hi
My opinion (as a builder) is that you follow the advice already given and wedge in a stud wall fixed to the roof joists.

A single (we call it 1/2 brick) 100mm wall will always alow damp to penetrate in certain windblown rain conditions, This will come through the mortared joints as well as the bricks. All bricks are porous to some degree and some of the softer ones are like sponges.

If you fix the sheets directly to the brickwork they will get wet and degrade even with a DPM where it will penetrate where you've fixed. There is also the likelyhood that the fixings will rust.

If you don't want a 2x2 stud wall and absolutely must fix to the brickwork then use treated slaters laths, 25mm thick then staple on a dpm and then nail or screw the sheets through the dpm on to the laths. There will be a much reduced possibility of damp problems.

I really don't see the point of doing it in the first place unless you intend to do it properly, it won't last. For minimal extra cost I'd put the insulation in anyway, even if it's just cheap polystyrene which is available in many thicknesses.
Just my opinion gained from many years experience.

cheers

Bob

 

[HeliGav]

Ok brought battons ans some breathable membrane from the roofershop. I am going to fix the battons to the wall with a hilti nail gun ive borrowed from a friend. Should the membrane go on the wall and the battons on top or should i fix the battons then staple the membrane to the battons. Not sure which order is best as ive heard fixed opinions. I will be putting 12.5mm plaster board on top, not going to insulate anymore with kingspan etc. as i cannot afford at present, i think the membrane goes against the brick??? It is an external garage with single brick depth.

Thanks

 

[Hemsby]

I am currently working in a double garage, single skinned brick and flat roof, I am not bothered about insulating for warmth, as im just happy thrown on the space heater and extra jumper, as i don't think the cost and time justifies the amount I use it as its used for generally storage aswell!

I basically want it to be damp free and pretty!

After going to wickes I have seen both plywood and osb boards and was planning to line the walls by screwing them on
My question was which do you think would be best? I was not going to apply batons just screw them to the wall, do i need a vapour barrier? And has anyone done this before or have experience of it.

Thanks

How about a couple of coats of this on the outside of the walls :idea: Its easy to apply

http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/water ... -protector

 

[dickm]

Kingspan is silly expensive, but there are alternatives - you can sometimes even get odd rolls of fibreglass or other insulation off Freecycle or similar for the cost of collecting it. Point is that insulating the walls will save a lot of money on heating in the long term, plus make it much pleasanter to work in the space anyway. And will help with condensation problems; think of the damage moisture can do to tools.
Put in insulation while you have the chance - it will be a lot more work and expense if you realise you need it subsequently.

 

[RobinBHM]

Im not sure if it would make much difference whether you put the membrane against the brick or over the battens.

It sounds like you want to use it against damp penetration, in which case a dpm would be better or thompsons as an external seal as mentioned above. If you use a membrane on the inside, that would be doing the job of a vapour barrier, although this is to prevent vapour reaching the cold side, but this is an unheated space.

I dont know much about breathable membranes used under tiles, I thought they stopped rain getting through but allowed some air flow.

 

[Hemsby]

Whatever route you take with the internal face of the walls I strongly recommend you treat the external face with Thompsons, better to stop the water from getting in the bricks in the first place.

Like you I have a garage with a single skin, 2 years ago I changed it to a workshop. Testing the walls with a damp meter I found one wall in particular soaking on the inside when it rained I gave all the walls 2 coats outside. I never did cover the internal faces of the garage and even on the wettest days all the walls remain perfectly dry =D> .

Not sure if you have a metal up & over door. If you have I recommend that you pay particular attention to restricting moisture entering round the edges.

I also occasionally run a Ecoair ECO DD322FW Desiccant Classic Dehumidifier which works extremely well

 

[HeliGav]

What size garage do u have and how much did it cost approx to cover twice?