Garage Floor Repair

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Not sure I understand. If you are laying a new concrete floor then just get it properly flat and smooth, then you have no need for the extra expense of putting ply on top. If like me you get back pain from standing on it then I sympathise. I have a good quality yoga mat in from of my lathe, big enough so you don't risk tripping over the edges. Makes a surprising difference when you are standing there for hours at a time.
 
I received a phone call from F Ball's tech department this morning regarding the questions I asked via e-mail. Great service based on that it was a bank holiday weekend just gone.

From the conversation I can advise (for my application) that:
  • Stopgap 300 HD is suitable and is fine for parking a car on and having wheeled workbenches moving over it (see paint point below).
  • The recommendation is to have a thickness of at least 5mm and using Stopgap aggregate to fill the lower strip at the edge prior to pouring is OK.
  • SBR the area before adding the aggregate and pouring the 300 HD.
  • The resulting floor can be painted (at least 2 coats recommended) with a water based epoxy garage floor paint.
I now have the way forward but having looked at the garage more closely I feel (for me) it would be wise to do some fillet pointing around the outside edge as it looks like this may be a source of some slight dampness limited to the corner next to the door (thanks again to Old.bodger for drawing my attention to this). I'll do the pointing and check on the situation and consider if a dpm coat is preferable.
 

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