Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi guys,
I recently posted a picture of a bowl of fruit I made for a customer. When I posted it someone asked for more info on making fruit and I offered to do a WIP as I had a follow up order to make.... so here it is - with LOTS of pictures!!!
For Apples pick a blank that is a cube. 3" x 3" x 3" is great but 2 1/2" cube works well too. Much smaller and we're into the realms of crab apples!! Mount between centres and turn a spigot for the chuck:
Once mounted in the chuck mark 30mm from the chuck (on a 3" blank) this will be the widest part and show us a divide between the top and bottom of the apple.
It is now being held by the top of the apple and we can now shape the bottom and drill a hole to suit your screw chuck (in my case 4mm is perfect)
Finish shaping, sand....
and polish the bottom of the apple:
If you are making a Pear, the process is the same just a different shape:
This is my shop made screw chuck, made with a 6mm coach screw:
Mount the blank onto the screw chuck with a bit of paper towel as padding between the chuck and the finished bottom:
Turn the shape of the top. It is the tops that let many wooden apples down in my opinion, people often don't go deep enough. I use a 3/8 and then a 1/4 spindle gouge in the same cut you would use to hollow a box or goblet out to shear scrape and shape the core area of the apple:
Once you are happy sand and polish as before:
I then drill for the stalk. I use an electric drill with a 3.5mm or 4mm bit at an angle to make the hole:
For the stalks there are a million and one ways to make them but this is mine. Cut a blank of about 10mm by 100mm (3/8 x 4") or you can use dowel, in any wood, this is beech:
The angled top was done on the disc sander but you can saw this by hand or on a bandsaw.
I mount this in a Jacobs chuck in the MT of the headstock. This is safe if you follow a couple of simple steps. First, give the JC a tap with a mallet (I use a Deadblow) to make sure the MT seats properly and then note the position of the tool rest. IF the JC decides to come out it can come no further than the tool rest and so is nice and safe. If you have a set of mini jaws for your chuck then all the better!!
Shape with the lathe running fast and supporting the stalk with you fingers. I cut a long gentle cove and then a tapered glue spoigot:
No need to sand, I just stain them with some Tudor Oak stain which is a dark green colour which I think suits nicely:
I fit a Clove in the bottom but you could easily turn a little button or similar:
Then glue in the stalk and thats your apple:
I hope you have enjoyed this WIP. I also hope it is clear and makes sence to you. If you have any comments or questions please post them up here.
Richard
I recently posted a picture of a bowl of fruit I made for a customer. When I posted it someone asked for more info on making fruit and I offered to do a WIP as I had a follow up order to make.... so here it is - with LOTS of pictures!!!
For Apples pick a blank that is a cube. 3" x 3" x 3" is great but 2 1/2" cube works well too. Much smaller and we're into the realms of crab apples!! Mount between centres and turn a spigot for the chuck:
Once mounted in the chuck mark 30mm from the chuck (on a 3" blank) this will be the widest part and show us a divide between the top and bottom of the apple.
It is now being held by the top of the apple and we can now shape the bottom and drill a hole to suit your screw chuck (in my case 4mm is perfect)
Finish shaping, sand....
and polish the bottom of the apple:
If you are making a Pear, the process is the same just a different shape:
This is my shop made screw chuck, made with a 6mm coach screw:
Mount the blank onto the screw chuck with a bit of paper towel as padding between the chuck and the finished bottom:
Turn the shape of the top. It is the tops that let many wooden apples down in my opinion, people often don't go deep enough. I use a 3/8 and then a 1/4 spindle gouge in the same cut you would use to hollow a box or goblet out to shear scrape and shape the core area of the apple:
Once you are happy sand and polish as before:
I then drill for the stalk. I use an electric drill with a 3.5mm or 4mm bit at an angle to make the hole:
For the stalks there are a million and one ways to make them but this is mine. Cut a blank of about 10mm by 100mm (3/8 x 4") or you can use dowel, in any wood, this is beech:
The angled top was done on the disc sander but you can saw this by hand or on a bandsaw.
I mount this in a Jacobs chuck in the MT of the headstock. This is safe if you follow a couple of simple steps. First, give the JC a tap with a mallet (I use a Deadblow) to make sure the MT seats properly and then note the position of the tool rest. IF the JC decides to come out it can come no further than the tool rest and so is nice and safe. If you have a set of mini jaws for your chuck then all the better!!
Shape with the lathe running fast and supporting the stalk with you fingers. I cut a long gentle cove and then a tapered glue spoigot:
No need to sand, I just stain them with some Tudor Oak stain which is a dark green colour which I think suits nicely:
I fit a Clove in the bottom but you could easily turn a little button or similar:
Then glue in the stalk and thats your apple:
I hope you have enjoyed this WIP. I also hope it is clear and makes sence to you. If you have any comments or questions please post them up here.
Richard
