Friction Polish issue

[loz]

Hi All,

I have been using friction polish on a few pieces lately - and using Kitchen Paper to finish it. However i am getting some pieces of paper "glued" to my piece.

Is it the paper i am using ? - it tends to get glazed after a few seconds.

Also the polish seems very very sticky compared to the stuff i used in my courses.

Its the record power speednease bottle.

Thanks

laurence

 

[davegw]

I use Chestnut products generally, and really cheap kitchen paper and don't have any problems at all.

I've never used the record power stuff, but I don't think it should be sticky? are you shaking it enough?

 

[Paul.J]

Loz.
I've only used the Chestnuts product and only on pens,and i only use a cloth to apply it.
You do have to be quick applying it,and at an high speed,or as you say it starts going off/sticky,which is why i think you only apply it to small items :?
I've also found that it goes on better if the finished piece is as smooth as you can get it.
What are you trying to put it onto :?:

 

[Bodrighy]

I aslso use the cheapest 'supermarket own brand'. If you use a cloth be very careful as if it catches it can pull your finget into it

If you let the paper dry out it will stick but can be eased off with a finger nail. Put the first coat on stationary and then buff with the paper wet with more polish.

HTH
Pete

 

[TEP]

Hi Laurence.

You are probably pressing too hard while the polish is still soft. Once you have put a thin layer of polish on the wood, start up the lathe and with the damp paper, gently go over the work. Then as the polish begins to harden you can then increase the pressure to bring up the shine. The harder the polish the more the pressure you can apply.

Also where a lot go wrong is when they put on a second coat too quickly, which then softens the first, and the sticky problem comes back. Another hint is do the same as french polishing, put a drip of linseed oil on your paper while buffing up.

 

[loz]

Thanks Guys,

I am using dry paper, i'll try later and use already damp ( with polish ) paper

 

[Terry Smart]

All of the advice above is sound and it's nice to get a few name checks, thanks!

There is a product called 'Safety Cloth' available which is a thick paper cloth that can be safely used for turning.
A big advantage it has over kitchen towel is that it stays wet longer - kitchen towel is designed to absorb after all, Safety Cloth will do so but much slower. You can also put a lot more polish on if you want without ending up with a soggy mess.

Converts have told me that they notice a difference when they use it, it is of course dearer than kitchen towel but we reckon it's worth it.

 

[Bodrighy]

Rotating objects and the use of woven materials.
Have a look at the above sticky re: safety issues using cloth etc

Pete

 

[loz]

HI,

Got myself a pack of 10 Chestnut Safty Cloths at weekend, and having pretty much same resuts. If someone can comment on my procedure.

Stop lathe, set to highest speed.
Decent amount of polish on cloth, smear over piece.
start lathe, press with cloth.....

Then cloth disintegrates, and sticks to piece, sand back down, try again...........

 

[Terry Smart]

Hi Loz

Couple of quick questions:

How big is the item you're polishing?
What sort of speed are you working at?
How much pressure are you applying when buffing (I know that's not an easy one to answer, we recommend a 'firm' pressure which isn't very scientific but hopefully you'll know what I mean)
How old is the bottle of polish you're using?

Cheers

 

[loz]

Hi Loz

Couple of quick questions:

How big is the item you're polishing?
What sort of speed are you working at?
How much pressure are you applying when buffing (I know that's not an easy one to answer, we recommend a 'firm' pressure which isn't very scientific but hopefully you'll know what I mean)
How old is the bottle of polish you're using?

Cheers

Hi Terry

Was turning a 9 inch platter, ( although last week was a 6 inch tall x 3 in dia end grain goblet in mahogany - same results. ) at 2krpm, pressure as quite firm lol....

I was told ( by a tutor and by Alan Holtham dvd ) spin fastest with as hard pressue as can manage without loosing the piece.

The bottle is only a month old, ( however could have been on a shelf a while ) Seems very very sticky. I used similar product a while back and was less sticky from the bottle.

Should i thin it maybe ??

 

[Terry Smart]

Hi again Loz

Friction Polish works best on small items, the nine inch platter is probably at the limit of what we'd recommend using on the lathe, the other item you mentioned shouldn't have been a problem though.

Have you sealed your work before using the Friction Polish? If so, what with?
It's not essential to use a sealer (we'd recommend Cellulose although Shellac and Acrylic will work as well) but it will improve the finish and just might help your problem.

I don't neccessarily agree with top speed and maximum pressure, obviously this will generate more friction and dry the polish quicker. You might want to try dropping the speed a little and slightly less pressure, that could make a difference.

It's hard to comment on the polish itself, I assume we're still talking about the product named earlier?
A couple of suggestions here:
Do you have a friend who could try it out for you?
Do you have another bottle to compare it with in use?
Have you tried using it off the lathe? It takes a lot of elbow grease but you should be able to get a shine in much the same way as french polishing, it would at least let you if the polish was ok
You could try thinning a small amount (not the main bottle in case you have to take it back) with some meths
Or finally, if the shop you bought it from are helpful, take it back and ask for their help. I know some places will put some timber on the lathe and try it out while you wait, others won't.

Any of those sound any good?

 

[Dave Leishman]

I use the same Record polish on pens, and a cheap brand of kitchen roll.

I apply some to a wad of paper (paper over the neck of the bottle, and tip the bottle to wet the paper), then using the lathe at the highest speed, wipe it over from one end to another.

Then with light pressure begin working the polish with the wad of paper until the shine begins to appear, applying progressively more pressure to buff.

If excessive pressure is applied then the finish may soften again and grab the paper, or even burn.

Sounds to me like the work may be just too a little large for efficient friction polish application, and too much pressure is being applied too early.

 

[Bodrighy]

Try running it a bit slower. If you have a 9" platter running at top speed the outside is going very fast and as said may be just too fast.

Pete

 

[Dave Atkinson]

Hi

I've always been told to apply Friction polish with the lathe staionary and then when it's lost it's initial wetness, start up and polish, keeping the cloth moving. I aso think it's important not to put too much on and work it into the wood first. Too much always gets rings!

Having said all that I wouldn't use friction polish on a platter. I use fiinishing oil, or sanding sealer followed by Chestnut Woodwax 22 which is a fabulous polish and gives a great satin finish.

Hope that helps.
Cheers Dave

 

[loz]

If excessive pressure is applied then the finish may soften again and grab the paper, or even burn.

Sounds to me like the work may be just too a little large for efficient friction polish application, and too much pressure is being applied too early.

I think Dave may have hit it on the head,

as with Tam that i may have overlooked last week

gently go over the work. Then as the polish begins to harden you can then increase the pressure to bring up the shine. The harder the polish the more the pressure you can apply.

I'm also NOT sealing beforehand - something i need to do - as per my other thread today - platter, my finsih is poor due now i think to not sealing, and resanding.somthing else i have learnt today -

This Forum does indeed Rock !!!