For people considering a new tablesaw

[Anonymous]

Not much to say here other than I managed to cut a half sheet of 19mm MDF on the sliding table on my kity 419 at the weekend easily and without problems.

I was quite surprised at how well the sliding table stood up to this heavy weight without any noticeable deflection as it is quite small in area, but it did.

So, if thinking of a tablesaw with sliding table option, don't just write the kity off because the table is not huge :wink:

 

[Bean]

I also have a Kity, the run out is negliable, the sliding table as Tony says is easy to use and accurate, as is the fence. If anything moves it can be easily reset.
The saw is generally well designed and has a small footprint, Ideal for the smaller shops, we meet in this forum. Before you buy ask yourself how often you will cut full sized sheets, not often I'll warrent.

Assess your needs and use your brain not just your wallet.

Bean

 

[devonwoody]

Nothing against Kity. (I have never used one)

But if you put a 10ft board of 8"x2" through (ripping) and it stalls because the board has released its tension and jammed, you then have a problem with these latest saws being sold today. Think what the leaverage must be like holding a ten foot pole and trying to extricate the timber.
You rush down the other end to whack in a wedge and in the meantime the feedind end is exerting unwanted pressure on the blade assembly etc.etc.

So it might have a nice cast iron top table but its the undercarriage stuff which the modern saws seemed to have failed for me in the past.

So Tony & Bean what has kity got under the table top?

 

[Anonymous]

DW

Not sure what point you are trying to make here

I have run 3m planks 20mm thick through my kity many times without issue. I have never stalled the motor when cutting anything and to be honest, apart form the crap udst extraction (now fixed ), it has taken everything i have thrown at it for two years.

My point is the same as Bean's - consider smaller saws as well as the £1000+ tablesaw for a hobby workshop/shed/garage as they (kity anyway) will do all that you ask

 

[Scrit]

But if you put a 10ft board of 8"x2" through (ripping) and it stalls because the board has released its tension and jammed, you then have a problem with these latest saws being sold today. Think what the leaverage must be like holding a ten foot pole and trying to extricate the timber.
You rush down the other end to whack in a wedge and in the meantime the feedind end is exerting unwanted pressure on the blade assembly etc.etc.

Sounds like you've been seriously misinformed on how to use a saw bench properly, there, JJ. Long work should be supported as flat as possible on both the infeed and outfeed ends of the saw bench - at the infeed end by either an auxilliary table table (pair of trestles and a work top offcut.....) or roller stand(s), and on the outfeed end by a table extending 1.2m or more beyond the rear of the saw blade (ideally a permanent fixture) in conjunction with a roller stand for longer stuff. To avoid trapping it is necessary to use the short rip fence which ends about where the blade gullet is - on a through fence this can be achieved by adding an auxilliary rip fence to the existing fence top emulate a short rip fence. Do that and trapping between the blade and the rip fence simply doesn't occur - a very good reason NOT to follow American long rip fence practice which was abandoned in the UK years ago. For me (trade) this is the law - for a DIYer it's advisable because it's safer.

I'd agree that you have to watch out for stalling on low power saws, but the above precautions plus a sharp blade will go a long way towards preventing problems.

For further information about sawing safety see here and look at Fig. 2(a) and Fig. 2(b)

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

DW Should mention that I do as Scrit says and the fence stops at the rear of the blade (Thanks for the advice Adam) which may be why I never experience the problem you mention

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Scrit for that safety reminder.
However when you have a very wayward piece of timber and have machined in a manner you decribe above and the machine did stall because of the tension mentioned can modern machines and their undercarriage cope?

I am thinking not along the lines when the timber expands and jams against the fence but jams itself on to the blade and the fence is not exerting any pressure because of the precautions you mention ablove.

 

[Scrit]

If it's that wayward could you use it in a piece of furniture/joinery anyway? Why not consider bandsawing it (or adding it to the firewood pile )? Or making it into a veneer? I've always found that it's better to break down to more manageable lengths by crosscutting BEFORE ripping (again accepted practice).

As to modern saws I find it hard to imagine how hard you are going to keep pushing. I'd say the blade is going to deflect first before the stall occurs and if the timber is that bad I'd skip it.

Scrit

 

[Bean]

DW if you are using a table saw in that manner, I have to wonder if you should have one at all


Who dislikes using sledgehammer to break nuts, even if they did in the olden days when that was all that was availiable


Bean

 

[devonwoody]

Bean , you sometimes are unaware when you cut a length of timber the first time from a board that there is going to be tension etc. Above advice is very applicable if the timber is going to expand, the timber has an escape route if the fence is not projecting too far back and that I ensure when ripping.
However when the wood CONTRACTS and the riving knife and blade are gripped by the plank, you naturally stop feeding, this still means you then have to go to the other end of the saw and whack in a wedge to release the timber from the blade and riving knife, and what ever support you have laid under the wood it will still twist or whatever until you get that wedge in when it is contracting.
In the meantime some under saw blade carriages might not be able to cope with this stress perhaps.
The price of timber to an hobbyist means that they might not always find it economical to cross cut across 8" of board but want the option of perhaps a ten foot length which can then be dimensioned has required.

 

[Jake]

What stress is there on the undercarriage in this situation - the saw is (I assume!) off so the only substantial forces on the saw are the compression forces on the blade and riving knife, surely?

 

[ike]

DW,

Maybe the cheapest type of table saws, i.e the 'bargain' saw with brush motor can have a flimsy, lightweight construction. But cabinet bases of saws with a build quality of Kity or Scheppach (just to name the first two that came to my mind, strength and rigidity are IMO perfectly adequate and very unlikely to adversely affect accuracy or performance of the saw itself.

If the situation occurs as you describe then stability might be an issue.

Ike